A TRAMP ABROAD BY MARK TWAIN
A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 1
By Mark Twain
(Samuel L. Clemens)
First published in 1880
Illustrations taken from an 1880 First Edition
ILLUSTRATIONS:
1. PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR
2. TITIAN’S MOSES
3. THE AUTHOR’S MEMORIES
4. THE BLACK KNIGHT
5. OPENING HIS VIZIER
6. THE ENRAGED EMPEROR
7. THE PORTIER
8. ONE
OF THOSE BOYS
9. SCHLOSS
HOTEL
10. IN MY CAGE
11. HEIDELBERG CASTLE
12. HEIDELBERG CASTLE, RIVER FRONTAGE
13. THE RETREAT
14. JIM
BAKER
15. "A BLUE FLUSH ABOUT IT"
16. COULD NOT SEE IT
17. THE BEER KING
18. THE
LECTURER’S AUDIENCE
19. INDUSTRIOUS
STUDENTS
20. IDLE STUDENT
21. COMPANIONABLE INTERCOURSE
22. AN IMPOSING SPECTACLE
23. AN ADVERTISEMENT
24. "UNDERSTANDS
HIS BUSINESS"
25. THE OLD SURGEON
26. THE FIRST WOUND
27. THE CASTLE COURT
28. WOUNDED
29. FAVORITE STREET COSTUME
30. INEFFACEABLE SCARS
31. PIECE OF SWORD
32. FRENCH
CALM
33. THE CHALLENGE ACCEPTED
34. A SEARCH
35. HE SWOONED PONDEROUSLY
36. I ROLLED HIM OVER
37. THE
ONE I HIRED
36. THE MARCH TO THE
FIELD
39. THE POST OF DANGER
40. THE RECONCILIATION
41. AN OBJECT OF ADMIRATION
42. WAGNER
43. RAGING
44. ROARING
45. SHRIEKING
46. A
CUSTOMARY THING
47. ONE OF THE
“REST"
48. A CONTRIBUTION
BOX
49. CONSPICUOUS
50. TAIL PIECE
51. ONLY A SHRIEK
52. "HE
ONLY CRY"
53. LATE COMERS CARED
FOR
54. EVIDENTLY DREAMING
55. "TURN ON MORE RAIN"
56. HARRIS ATTENDING THE OPERA
57. PAINTING MY GREAT PICTURE
58. OUR START
59. AN
UNKNOWN COSTUME
60. THE TOWER
61. SLOW BUT SURE
62. THE ROBBER CHIEF
63. AN
HONEST MAN
64. THE TOWN BY NIGHT
65. GENERATIONS OF BAREFEET
66. OUR BEDROOM
67. PRACTICING
68. PAWING AROUND
69. A NIGHT’S WORK
70. LEAVING HEILBRONN
71. THE
CAPTAIN
72. WAITING FOR THE TRAIN
73. A DEEP AND TRANQUIL ECSTACY
74. "WHICH ANSWERED JUST AS WELL"
75. LIFE ON A RAFT
76. LADY GERTRUDE
77. MOUTH
OF THE CAVERN
78. A FATAL MISTAKE
79. TAIL PIECE
80. RAFTING ON THE NECKAR
81. THE LORELEI
82. THE
LOVER’s FATE
84. THE
UNKNOWN KNIGHT
85. THE EMBRACE
86. PERILOUS POSTTION
87. THE RAFT IN A STORM
88. ALL SAFE ON SHORE
89. "IT WAS THE CAT"
90. TAILPIECE
91. BREAKFAST
IN THE GARDEN 162
92. EASILY
UNDERSTOOD
93. EXPERIMENTING
THROUGH HARRIS
94. AT THE BALL
ROOM DOOR
95. THE TOWN OF
DILSBERG
96. OUR ADVANCE ON
DILSBERG
97. INSIDE THE TOWN
95. THE OLD WELL
99. SEND HITHER THE LORD ULRICH
100. LEAD ME TO HER GRAVE
102. AN EXCELLENT PILOT, ONCE
103. SCATTERATION
104. THE
RIVER BATH
101. ETRUSCAN TEAR
JUG
106. HENRI II. PLATE
l07. OLD BLUE CHINA
108. A REAL ANTIQUE
109. BRIC-A-BRAC
SHOP
110. "PUT IT THERE"
111. THE PARSON CAPTURED
112. TAIL PIECE
113. A
COMPREHENSIVE YAWN
114. TESTING
THE COIN
115. BEAUTY AT THE BATH
116. IN THE BATH
117. JERSEY INDIANS
118. NOT
PARTICULARLY SOCIABLE
119. BLACK
FOREST GRANDEE
120. THE GRANDEE’S
DAUGHTER
121. RICH OLD HUSS
122. GRETCHEN
123. PAUL HOCH
124. HANS
SCHMIDT
125. ELECTING A NEW
MEMBER
126. OVERCOMING OBSTACLES
127. FRIENDS
128. PROSPECTING
129. TAIL
PIECE
130. A GENERAL HOWL
131. SEEKING A SITUATION
132. STANDING GUARD
133. RESULT
OF A JOKE
134. DESCENDING A FARM
155. A GERMAN SABBATH
136. AN OBJECT OF SYMPATHY
137. A NON-CLASSICAL STYLE
138. THE TRADITIONAL CHAMOIS
139. HUNTING CHAMOIS THE TRUE WAY
140. CHAMOIS HUNTER AS REPORTED
141. MARKING ALPENSTOCKS
142. IS SHE EIGHTEEN OR TWENTY
143. I KNEW I WASN’T MISTAKEN
144. HARRIS ASTONISHED
145. TAIL PIECE
146. THE
LION OF LUCERNE
147. HE LIKED
CLOCKS
148. "I WILL TELL YOU"
149. COULDN’T WAIT
150. DIDN’T CARE FOR STYLE
151. A PAIR BETTER THAN FOUR
152. TWO WASN’T NECESSARY
153. JUST THE TRICK
154. GOING
TO MAKE THEM STARE
155. NOT
THROWN AWAY
156. WHAT THE DOCTOR
RECOMMENDED
157. WANTED TO FEEL
SAFE
158. PREFERRED TO TRAMP ON
FOOT
159. DERN A DOG, ANYWAY
160. TAIL PIECE
161. THE GLACIER GARDEN
162. LAKE AND MOUNTAINS (MONT PILATUS)
163. MOUNTAIN PATHS
164. "YOU’RE
AN AMERICAN—SO AM I"
165. ENTERPRISE
166. THE CONSTANT SEARCHER
167. THE MOUNTAIN BOY
168. THE
ENGLISHMAN
169. THE JODLER
170. ANOTHER VOCALIST
171. THE FELSENTHOR
172. A
VIEW FROM THE STATION
173. LOST
IN THE MIST
174. THE RIGI-KULM
HOTEL
175. WHAT AWAKENED US
176. A SUMMIT SUNRISE
177. TAIL PIECE
178. EXCEEDINGLY
COMFORTABLE
179. THE SUNRISE
180. THE RIGI-KULM
181. AN OPTICAL ILLUSION
182. TAIL PIECE
183. RAILWAY
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN
184. SOURCE OF
THE RHONE
185. A GLACIER TABLE
186. GLACIER OF GRINDELWALD
187. DAWN ON THE MOUNTAINS
188. TAIL PIECE
189. NEW
AND OLD STYLE
190. ST NICHOLAS,
AS A HERMIT
191. A LANDSLIDE
192. GOLDAU VALLEY BEFORE AND AFTER THE
LANDSLIDE
193. THE WAY THEY DO IT
194. OUR GALLANT DRIVER
195. A MOUNTAIN PASS
196. "I’M
OFUL DRY"
197. IT’S THE
FASHION
198. WHAT WE EXPECTED
199. WE MISSED THE SCENERY
200. THE TOURISTS
201. THE
YOUNG BRIDE
202. "IT WAS A FAMOUS
VICTORY
203. PROMENADE IN
INTERLAKEN
204. THE JUNGFRAU BY
M.T.
205. STREET IN INTERLAKEN
206. WITHOUT A COURIER
207. TRAVELING WITH A COURIER
208. TAIL PIECE
209. GRAPE
AND WHEY PATIENTS
210. SOCIABLE
DRIVERS
211. A MOUNTAIN CASCADE
212. THE GASTERNTHAL
213. EXHILARATING SPORT
214. FALLS
215. WHAT
MIGHT BE
216. AN ALPINE BOUQUET
217. THE END OF THE WORLD
218. THE FORGET-ME-NOT
219. A NEEDLE OF ICE
220. CLIMBING
THE MOUNTAIN
221. SNOW CREVASSES
222. CUTTING STEPS
223. THE GUIDE
224. VIEW
FROM THE CLIFF
225. GEMMI PASS
AND LAKE DAUBENSEE
226. ALMOST A
TRAGEDY
227. THE ALPINE LITTER
228. SOCIAL BATHERS
229. DEATH OF COUNTESS HERLINCOURT
230. THEY’VE GOT IT ALL
231. MODEL FOR AN EMPRESS
232. BATH HOUSES AT LEUKE
233. THE BATHERS AT LEUKE
234. RATTIER MIXED UP
235. TAIL
PIECE
236. A SUNDAY MORNING’S
DEMON
237. JUST SAVED
238. SCENE IN VALLEY OF ZERMATT
239. ARRIVAL AT ZERMATT
240. FITTED OUT
241. A
FEARFUL FALL
242. TAIL PIECE
243. ALL READY
244. THE MARCH
245. THE
CARAVAN
246. THE HOOK
247. THE DISABLED CHAPLAIN
248. TRYING EXPERIMENTS
249. SAVED! SAVED!
250. TWENTY
MINUTES WORK
251. THE BLACK RAM
252. THE MIRACLE
253. THE NEW GUIDE
251. SCIENTIFIC
RESEARCHES
255. MOUNTAIN CHALET
256. THE GRANDSON
257. OCCASIONLY MET WITH
258. SUMMIT OF THE GORNER GRAT
259. CHIEFS OF THE ADVANCE GUARD
260. MY PICTURE OF THE MATTERHORN
261. EVERYBODY HAD AN EXCUSE
262. SPRUNG A LEAK
263. A
SCIENTIFIC QUESTION
264. A
TERMINAL MORAINE
265. FRONT OF
GLACIER
266. AN OLD MORAINE
267. GLACIER OF ZERMATT WITH LATERAL MORAINE
269. UNEXPECTED MEETING OF FRIENDS
269. VILLAGE OF CHAMONIX
270. THE MATTERHORN
271. ON
THE SUMMIT
272. ACCIDENT ON THE
MATTERHORN (1865)
273. ROPED
TOGETHER
274. STORAGE OF
ANCESTORS
275. FALLING OUT OF HIS
FARM
276. CHILD LIFE IN
SWITZERLAND
277. A SUNDAY PLAY
278. THE COMBINATION
279. CHILLON
280. THE
TETE NOIR
281. MONT BLANC’S
NEIGHBORS
282. AN EXQUISITE THING
283. A WILD RIDE
284. SWISS PEASANT GIRL
285. STREET IN CHAMONIX
286. THE PROUD GERMAN
287. THE
INDIGNANT TOURIST
288. MUSIC OF
SWITZERLAND
289. ONLY A MISTAKE
290. A BROAD VIEW
291. PREPARING TO START
292. ASCENT OF MONT BLANC
293. "WE ALL RAISED A TREMENDOUS SHOUT"
294. THE GRANDE MULETS
295. CABIN ON THE GRANDE MULETS
296. KEEPING WARM
297. TAIL
PIECE
298. TAKE IT EASY
299. THE MER DE GLACE (MONT BLANC)
300. TAKING TOLL
301. A DESCENDING TOURIST
302. LEAVING BY DILIGENCE
303. THE SATISFIED ENGLISHMAN
301. HIGH PRESSURE
305. NO
APOLOGY
307. A LIVELY STREET
308. HAVING HER FULL RIGHTS
309. HOW SHE FOOLED US
310. "YOU’LL TAKE THAT OR NONE"
311. ROBBING A BEGGAR
312. DISHONEST ITALY
313. STOCK IN TRADE
314. STYLE
315. SPECIMENS FROM OLD MASTERS
316. AN OLD MASTER
317. THE LION OF ST MARK
318. OH TO BE AT RRST!
319. THE WORLD’S MASTERPIECE
320. TAIL PIECE
321. AESTHETIC
TASTES
322. A PRIVATE FAMILY
BREAKFAST
323. EUROPEAN CARVING
323. A TWENTY-FOUR HOUR FIGHT
325. GREAT HEIDELBERG TUN
326. BISMARCK IN PRISON
327. TAIL PIECE 600
328. A
COMPLETE WORD
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
A Tramp over Europe—On the
Holsatia—Hamburg—Frankfort-on-the-Main—How it Won its
Name—A Lesson in Political Economy—Neatness in Dress—Rhine
Legends—“The Knave of Bergen” The Famous Ball—The
Strange Knight—Dancing with the Queen—Removal of the Masks—The
Disclosure—Wrath of the Emperor—The Ending
CHAPTER II
At Heidelberg—Great Stir at a Hotel—The
Portier—Arrival of the Empress—The Schloss Hotel—Location
of Heidelberg—The River Neckar—New Feature in a Hotel—Heidelberg
Castle—View from the Hotel—A Tramp in the Woods—Meeting
a Raven—Can Ravens Talk?—Laughed at and Vanquished—Language
of Animals—Jim Baker—Blue-Jays
CHAPTER
III
Baker’s Blue-Jay Yarn—Jay Language—The
Cabin—“Hello, I reckon I’ve struck something”—A
Knot Hole—Attempt to fill it—A Ton of Acorns—Friends
Called In—A Great Mystery—More Jays called A Blue Flush—A
Discovery—A Rich Joke—One that Couldn’t See It
CHAPTER IV
Student Life—The Five Corps—The
Beet King—A Free Life—Attending Lectures—An Immense
Audience—Industrious Students—Politeness of the Students—Intercourse
with the Professors Scenes at the Castle Garden—Abundance of Dogs—Symbol
of Blighted Love—How the Ladies Advertise
CHAPTER
V
The Students’ Dueling Ground—The Dueling Room—The
Sword Grinder—Frequency of the Duels—The Duelists—Protection
against Injury—The Surgeon—Arrangements for the Duels—The
First Duel—The First Wound—A Drawn Battle—The Second
Duel—Cutting and Slashing—Interference of the Surgeon
CHAPTER VI
The Third Duel—A Sickening
Spectacle—Dinner between Fights—The Last Duel—Fighting
in Earnest—Faces and Heads Mutilated—Great Nerve of the
Duelists—Fatal Results not Infrequent—The World’s View
of these Fights
CHAPTER VII
Corps—laws
and Usages—Volunteering to Fight—Coolness of the Wounded—Wounds
Honorable—Newly bandaged Students around Heidelberg—Scarred
Faces Abundant—A Badge of Honor—Prince Bismark as a Duelist—Statistics—Constant
Sword Practice—Color of the Corps—Corps Etiquette
CHAPTER VIII
The Great French Duel—Mistaken
Notions—Outbreak in the French Assembly—Calmness of M Gambetta—I
Volunteer as Second—Drawing up a Will—The Challenge and its
Acceptance—Difficulty in Selection of Weapons—Deciding on
Distance—M. Gambetta’s Firmness—Arranging Details—Hiring
Hearses—How it was Kept from the Press—March to the Field—The
Post of Danger—The Duel—The Result—General Rejoicings—The
only One Hurt—A Firm Resolution
CHAPTER IX
At the Theatre—German Ideal—At the Opera—The Orchestra—Howlings
and Wailings—A Curious Play—One Season of Rest—The
Wedding Chorus—Germans fond of the Opera—Funerals Needed
—A Private Party—What I Overheard—A Gentle Girl—A
Contribution—box—Unpleasantly Conspicuous
CHAPTER X
Four Hours with Wagner—A Wonderful
Singer, Once—” Only a Shriek”—An Ancient Vocalist—“He
Only Cry”—Emotional Germans—A Wise Custom—Late
Comers Rebuked—Heard to the Last—No Interruptions Allowed—A
Royal Audience—An Eccentric King—Real Rain and More of It—Immense
Success—“Encore! Encore!”—Magnanimity of the King
CHAPTER XI
Lessons in Art—My Great
Picture of Heidelberg Castle—Its Effect in the Exhibition—Mistaken
for a Turner—A Studio—Waiting for Orders—A Tramp Decided
On—The Start for Heilbronn—Our Walking Dress—“Pleasant
march to you”—We Take the Rail—German People on Board—Not
Understood—Speak only German and English—Wimpfen—A Funny
Tower—Dinner in the Garden—Vigorous Tramping—Ride in a
Peasant’s Cart—A Famous Room
CHAPTER
XII
The Rathhaus—An Old Robber Knight, Gotz Von
Berlichingen—His Famous Deeds—The Square Tower—A Curious
old Church—A Gay Turn—out—A Legend—The Wives’
Treasures—A Model Waiter—A Miracle Performed—An Old Town—The
Worn Stones
CHAPTER XIII
Early to Bed—Lonesome—Nervous
Excitement—The Room We Occupied—Disturbed by a Mouse—Grow
Desperate—The Old Remedy—A Shoe Thrown—Result—Hopelessly
Awake—An Attempt to Dress—A Cruise in the Dark—Crawling
on the Floor—A General Smash-up—Forty-seven Miles’
Travel
CHAPTER XIV
A Famous Turn—out—Raftsmen
on the Neckar—The Log Rafts—The Neckar—A Sudden Idea—To
Heidelberg on a Raft—Chartering a Raft—Gloomy Feelings and
Conversation—Delicious Journeying—View of the Banks—Compared
with Railroading
CHAPTER XV
Down the
River—German Women’s Duties—Bathing as We Went—A
Handsome Picture: Girls in the Willows—We Sight a Tug—Steamers
on the Neckar—Dinner on Board—Legend “Cave of the
Spectre “—Lady Gertrude the Heiress—The Crusader—The
Lady in the Cave—A Tragedy
CHAPTER XVI
An Ancient Legend of the Rhine—“The Lorelei”—Count
Hermann—Falling in Love—A Sight of the Enchantress—Sad
Effect on Count Hermann—An Evening visit—A Sad Mistake—Count
Hermann Drowned—The Song and Music—Different Trans lations—Curiosities
in Titles
CHAPTER XVII
Another Legend—The
Unconquered Monster—The Unknown Knight —His Queer Shaped
Knapsack—The Knight Pitied and Advised—He Attacks the Monster—Victory
for the Fire Extinguisher—The Knight rewarded—His Strange
Request——Spectacles Made Popular—Danger to the Raft—Blasting
Rocks—An Inglorious Death in View—Escaped—A Storm
Overtakes us—GreatDanger—Man Overboard—Breakers Ahead—Springing
a Leak—Ashore Safe—A General Embracing—A Tramp in the
Dark—The Naturalist Tavern—A Night’s Troubles—“It
is the Cat"
CHAPTER XVIII
Breakfast in
a Garden—The Old Raven—Castle of Hirschhorn—Attempt to
Hire a Boat—High Dutch—What You Can Find out by Enquiring—What
I Found out about the Students—A good German Custom—Harris
Practices It—AnEmbarrassing Position—A Nice Party—At a
Ball—Stopped at the Door—Assistance at Hand and Rendered—Worthy
to be an Empress
CHAPTER XIX
Arrive at
Neckarsteinach—Castle of Dilsberg—A Walled Town—On a
Hill—Exclusiveness of the People—A Queer Old Place—An
Ancient Well—An Outlet Proved—Legend of Dilsberg Castle—The
Haunted Chamber—The Betrothed’s request—The Knight’s
Slumbers and Awakening—Horror of the Lover—The Wicked Jest—The
Lover a Maniac—Under the Linden—Turning Pilot—Accident
to the Raft—Fearful Disaster
CHAPTER XX
Good News—“Slow Freight”—Keramics—My
Collection of Bric-a-brac—My Tear Jug—Henri II. Plate—Specimen
of Blue China—Indifference to the Laugh of the World—I
Discover an Antique En-route to Baden—Baden—Meeting an Old
Acquaintance—A young American—Embryo Horse Doctor—An
American, Sure—A Minister Captured
CHAPTER
XXI
Baden—Baden—Energetic Girls—A Comprehensive
Yawn—A Beggar’s Trick—Cool Impudence—The Bath
Woman—Insolence of Shop Keepers—Taking a Bath—Early and
Late Hours—Popular Belief Regarding Indians—An Old Cemetery—A
Pious Hag—Curious Table Companions
CHAPTER
XXII
The Black Forest—A Grandee and his Family—The
Wealthy Nabob—A New Standard of Wealth—Skeleton for a New
Novel—Trying Situation—The Common Council—Choosing a New
Member Studying Natural History—The Ant a Fraud—Eccentricities
of the Ant—His Deceit and Ignorance—A German Dish—Boiled
Oranges
CHAPTER XXIII
Off for a Day’s
Tramp—Tramping and Talking—Story Telling—Dentistry in
Camp—Nicodemus Dodge—Seeking a Situation—A Butt for
Jokes—Jimmy Finn’s Skeleton—Descending a Farm—Unexpected
Notoriety
CHAPTER XXIV
Sunday on the
Continent—A Day of Rest—An Incident at Church—An Object
of Sympathy—Royalty at Church—Public Grounds Concert—Power
and Grades of Music—Hiring a Courier
CHAPTER
XXV
Lucerne—Beauty of its Lake—The Wild Chamois—A
Great Error Exposed—Methods of Hunting the Chamois—Beauties of
Lucerne—The Alpenstock—Marking Alpenstocks—Guessing at
Nationalities—An American Party—An Unexpected Acquaintance—Getting
Mixed Up—Following Blind Trails—A Happy Half—hour—Defeat
and Revenge
CHAPTER XXVI
Commerce of
Lucerne—Benefits of Martyrdom—A Bit of History—The Home
of Cuckoo Clocks—A Satisfactory Revenge—The Alan Who Put Up at
Gadsby’s—A Forgotten Story—Wanted to be Postmaster—A
Tennessean at Washington—He Concluded to Stay A While—Application
of the Story
CHAPTER XXVII
The Glacier
Garden—Excursion on the Lake—Life on the Mountains—A
Specimen Tourist—“Where’re you From?”—An
Advertising Dodge—A Righteous Verdict—The Guide-book Student—I
Believe that’s All
CHAPTER XXVIII
The Rigi-Kulm—Its Ascent—Stripping for Business—A
Mountain Lad—An English Tourist—Railroad up the Mountain—Villages
and Mountain—The Jodlers—About Ice Water—The Felsenthor—Too
Late—Lost in the Fog—The Rigi-Kulm Hotel—The Alpine Horn—Sunrise
at Night
CHAPTER XXIX
Everything
Convenient—Looking for a Western Sunrise—Mutual Recrimination—View
from the Summit—Down the Mountain—Railroading—Confidence
Wanted and Acquired
CHAPTER XXX
A Trip
by Proxy—A Visit to the Furka Regions—Deadman’s Lake—Source
of the Rhone—Glacier Tables—Storm in the Mountains—At
Grindelwald—Dawn on the Mountains—An Explanation Required—Dead
Language—Criticism of Harris’s Report
CHAPTER XXXI
Preparations for a Tramp—From
Lucerne to Interlaken—The Brunig Pass—Modern and Ancient
Chalets—Death of Pontius Pilate—Hermit Home of St Nicholas—Landslides—Children
Selling Refreshments—How they Harness a Horse—A Great Man—Honors
to a Hero—A Thirsty Bride—For Better or Worse—German
Fashions—Anticipations—Solid Comfort—An Unsatisfactory \
Awakening—What we had Lost—Our Surroundings
CHAPTER XXXII
The Jungfrau Hotel—A Whiskered
Waitress—An Arkansas Bride—Perfection in Discord—A
Famous Victory—A Look from a Window—About the Jungfrau
CHAPTER XXXIII
The Giesbach Falls—The
Spirit of the Alps—Why People Visit Them—Whey and Grapes as
Medicines—The Kursaal—A Formidable Undertaking—From
Interlaken to Zermatt on Foot—We Concluded to take a Buggy—A
Pair of Jolly Drivers—We meet with Companions—A Cheerful Ride—Kandersteg
Valley—An Alpine Parlor—Exercise and Amusement—A Race
with a Log
CHAPTER XXXIV
An Old Guide—Possible
Accidents—Dangerous Habitation—Mountain Flowers—Embryo
Lions—Mountain Pigs—The End of The World—Ghastly
Desolation—Proposed Adventure—Reading-up Adventures—Ascent
of Monte Rosa—Precipices and Crevasses—Among the Snows—Exciting
Experiences—lee Ridges—The Summit—Adventures Postponed
CHAPTER XXXV
A New Interest—Magnificent
Views—A Mule’s Prefereoces—Turning Mountain Corners—Terror
of a Horse—Lady Tourists—Death of a young Countess—A
Search for a Hat—What We Did Find—Harris’s Opinion of
Chamois—A Disappointed Man—A Giantess—Model for an
Empress—Baths at Leuk—Sport in the Water—The Gemmi
Precipices—A Palace for an Emperor—The Famous Ladders—Considerably
Mixed Up—Sad Plight of a Minister
CHAPTER
XXXVI
Sunday Church Bells—A Cause of Profanity—A
Magnificent Glacier—Fault Finding by Harris—Almost an Accident—Selfishness
of Harris—Approaching Zermatt—The Matterhorn—Zermatt—Home
of Mountain Climbers—Fitted out for Climbing—A Fearful
Adventure —Never Satisfied
CHAPTER XXXVII
A Calm Decision—“I Will Ascend the Riffelberg”—Preparations
for the Trip—All Zermatt on the Alert—Schedule of Persons and
Things—An Unprecedented Display—A General Turn—out—Ready
for a Start—The Post of Danger—The Advance Directed—Grand
Display of Umbrellas—The First Camp—Almost a Panic—Supposed
to be Lost—The First Accident—A Chaplain Disabled—An
Experimenting Mule—Good Effects of a Blunder—Badly Lost—A
Reconnoiter—Mystery and Doubt—Stern Measures Taken—A
Black Ram—Saved by a Miracle—The Guide’s Guide
CHAPTER XXXVIII
Our Expedition Continued—Experiments
with the Barometer—Boiling Thermometer—Barometer Soup—An
Interesting Scientific Discovery—Crippling a Latinist—A
Chaplain Injured—Short of Barkeepers—Digging a Mountain Cellar—A
Young American Specimen—Somebody’s Grandson—Arrival at
Riffelberg Botel—Ascent of Gorner Grat—Faith in Thermometers—The
Matterhorn
CHAPTER XXXIX
Guide Books—Plans
for the Return of the Expedition—A Glacier Train—Parachute
Descent from Gorner Grat—Proposed Honors to Harris Declined—All
had an Excuse—A Magnificent Idea Abandoned—Descent to the
Glacier—A Supposed Leak—A Slow Train—The Glacier
Abandoned—Journey to Zermatt—A Scientific Question
CHAPTER XL
Glaciers—Glacier Perils—Moraines—Terminal
Moraines—Lateral Moraines—Immense Size of Glacier—Traveling
Glacier——General Movements of Glaciers—Ascent of Mont
Blacc—Loss of Guides—Finding of Remains—Meeting of Old
Friends—The Dead and Living—Proposed Museum—The Relics
at Chamonix
CHAPTER XLI
The Matterhorn
Catastrophe of 1563—Mr Whymper’s Narrative—Ascent of the
Matterhorn—The Summit—The Matterhorn Conquered—The
Descent Commenced—A Fearful Disaster—Death of Lord Douglas and
Two Others—The Graves of the Two
CHAPTER
XLII
Switzerland—Graveyard at Zermatt—Balloting for
Marriage—Farmers as Heroes—Falling off a Farm—From St
Nicholas to Visp—Dangerous Traveling—Children’s Play—The
Parson’s Children—A Landlord’s Daughter—A Rare
Combination—Ch iIIon—Lost Sympathy—Mont Blanc and its
Neighbors—Beauty of Soap Bubbles—A Wild Drive—The King
of Drivers—Benefit of getting Drunk
CHAPTER
XLIII
Chamonix—Contrasts—Magnificent Spectacle—The
Guild of Guides—The Guide—in—Chief—The Returned
Tourist—Getting Diploma—Rigid Rules—Unsuccessful Efforts
to Procure a Diploma—The Record-Book—The Conqueror of Mont
Blanc—Professional Jealousy —Triumph of Truth—Mountain
Music—Its Effect—A Hunt for a Nuisance
CHAPTER XLIV
Looking at Mont Blanc—Telescopic
Effect—A Proposed Trip—Determination and Courage—The
Cost all counted——Ascent of Mont Blanc by Telescope—Safe
and Rapid Return—Diplomas Asked for and Refused—Disaster of
1866—The Brave Brothers—Wonderful Endurance and Pluck—Love
Making on Mont Blanc—First Ascent of a Woman—Sensible Attire
CHAPTER XLV
A Catastrophe which Cost Eleven
Lives—Accident of 1870—A Party of Eleven—A Fearful Storm—Note-books
of the Victims—Within Five Minutes of Safety—Facing Death
Resignedly
CHAPTER XLVI
The Hotel des
Pyramids—The Glacier des Bossons—One of the Shows—Premeditated
Crime—Saved Again—Tourists Warned—Advice to Tourists—The
Two Empresses—The Glacier Toll Collector—Pure Ice Water—Death
Rate of the World—Of Various Cities—A Pleasure Excursionist—A
Diligence Ride—A Satisfied Englishman
CHAPTER
XLVII
Geneva—Shops of Geneva—Elasticity of Prices—Persistency
of Shop-Women—The High Pressure System—How a Dandy was brought
to Grief—American Manners—Gallantry—Col Baker of London—Arkansaw
Justice—Safety of Women in America—Town of Chambery—A
Lively Place—At Turin—A Railroad Companion—An Insulted
Woman—City of Turin—Italian Honesty—A Small Mistake
—Robbing a Beggar Woman
CHAPTER XLVIII
In Milan—The Arcade—Incidents we Met With—The Pedlar—Children—The
Honest Conductor—Heavy Stocks of Clothing—The Quarrelsome
Italians—Great Smoke and Little Fire—The Cathedral—Style
in Church—The Old Masters—Tintoretto’s great Picture—Emotional
Tourists—Basson’s Famed Picture—The Hair Trunk
CHAPTER XLIX
In Venice—St Mark’s
Cathedral—Discovery of an Antique—The Riches of St Mark’s—A
Church Robber—Trusting Secrets to a Friend —The Robber Hanged—A
Private Dinner—European Food
CHAPTER L
Why Some things Are—Art in Rome and Florence—The Fig Leaf
Mania—Titian’s Venus—Difference between Seeing and
Describing A Real work of Art—Titian’s Moses—Home
APPENDIX
A—The Portier analyzed
B—Hiedelberg Castle Described
C—The College Prison and Inmates
D—The Awful German Language
E—Legends of the Castle
F—The Journals of Germany