Encyclopedia of Needlework
FIG. 101. LATTICE-GROUND FOR SQUARE IN FIG. 105, SHOWING THE COURSE OF THE STITCHES. Fig. 101. Lattice-ground for square in fig. 105, showing the course of the stitches.
FIG. 102. LATTICE-GROUND FOR SQUARE IN FIG. 105. Fig. 102. Lattice-ground for square in fig. 105.

Lattice-ground and damask stitch for square, fig. 105 (fig. 103).—Our illustration shows a third kind of openwork ground with one corner in damask stitch, of the square represented in fig. 105. The little bars which intersect each square crossways, are made in two divisions, by carrying the thread to the opposite bar and back. In the same way, the second thread is carried over the first. The damask stitches are described in the next chapter, in figs. 143 and 144.

FIG. 103. LATTICE-GROUND WITH A PORTION OF SQUARE, FIG. 105. Fig. 103. Lattice-ground with a portion of square, fig. 105.

Lattice-ground and damask stitches for square, fig. 105 (fig. 104).—Damask, or gobelin stitches, are given in figs. 152, 153, 154. The ground of this part of the square (fig. 104) is adorned with narrow bars, worked in darning stitch. From the centre of one bar, proceed three bars made on three foundation-threads, and a fourth made on two, on account of the passage to the next bar.

FIG. 104.  LATTICE-GROUND AND DAMASK STITCH FOR SQUARE, FIG. 105. Fig. 104. Lattice-ground and damask stitch for square, fig. 105.

Quarter of the square in single and cut open-work, and damask-stitch (fig. 105).—Original size 48 c/m. square. This handsome square is worked in unbleached cotton on a white ground; it may also be worked in colours. A very good effect is produced by using Chiné d’or D.M.C[A] red, blue, or green for the gobelin stitch, and a uniform pale tint for the cut open-work.

Figs. 101, 102, 103, 104 illustrate in detail, one quarter of the square, which is represented here one third of the original size. The centre piece (fig. 104) is bordered by four stripes, two long and two short; the former containing two lozenge-shaped open-work figures separated and finished off by damask stitches; the latter, only one such figure. For the insertion in single open-work, that recurs three times, you will find a variety of designs in figs. 81, 82, 83, 84, 87, 88.

FIG. 105. QUARTER OF THE SQUARE IN SINGLE AND CUT OPEN-WORK, AND DAMASK STITCH. Fig. 105. Quarter of the square in single and cut open-work, and damask stitch.

Original size 48 c/m. square.

Materials suitable for Holbein linen: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 15 or 20, and Coton à repriser D.M.C No. 25. [A]

For antique linen: Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 25 or 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 50, 60, or 70, and Coton à repriser D.M.C No. 50 or, in place of the latter, Coton à broder surfin D.M.C No. 190.[A]

Drawing in the pattern (fig. 106).—Darning in the threads, as you do into a net foundation is a slower process and one that requires greater skill than drawing them in. The illustration shows the proper order and direction of stitches for Fig. 108. In this case likewise, the little bars must be finished, before the actual pattern is filled in.

FIG. 106. DRAWING IN THE PATTERN. (Explanation of fig. 108) Fig. 106. Drawing in the pattern.
(Explanation of fig. 108)

Darning in the threads (fig. 107)—In old needle-work we often find the pattern reserved, that is, left blank and outlined by the grounding. As it is difficult, especially in executing minute, and delicate figures, to withdraw the threads partially, without injuring the linen foundation, they are withdrawn throughout, and new ones drawn in, to form the pattern. To explain this more clearly, the original threads of the material are represented in a lighter shade than the new ones that are drawn in; the course of the stitches is indicated in a darker shade.

FIG. 107. DARNING IN THE THREADS. (Explanation of fig. 109). Fig. 107. Darning in the threads.
(Explanation of fig. 109).

Broad insertion in cut open-work, with the pattern drawn in (fig. 108).—This insertion, suitable according to the foundation it is worked on, for the decoration either of curtains, table-covers, bed-linen or underclothing, is made as shown in fig. 106. If intended for the decoration of any article made of white linen, we recommend unbleached materials for the lattice-work, and bleached for the pattern, to bring it out in strong relief.

FIG. 108. BROAD INSERTION IN CUT OPEN-WORK, WITH PATTERN DRAWN IN. Fig. 108. Broad insertion in cut open-work, with pattern drawn in.

Insertion in cut open-work, with pattern darned in (fig. 109).—This insertion can be introduced into any kind of linen material, and used for ornamenting towels, aprons, bed-linen and table-linen. When it is used to connect bands of cross-stitch embroidery, the open-work should be of the same colour as the embroidery, and the pattern worked in white or unbleached cotton, to correspond with the foundation. In fig. 109, the pattern is half as large again as in the original.

FIG. 109. INSERTION IN CUT OPEN-WORK, WITH PATTERN DARNED IN. Fig. 109. Insertion in cut open-work, with pattern darned in.

Materials—For Holbein linen: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 15 or 20, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 8, 10 or 15 for the bars.—Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 16 or Coton à repriser D.M.C No. 12 or 25 for darning or drawing in the pattern.

For finer linens: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 40 for the bars and Coton à repriser D.M.C No. 50 for darning or drawing in the pattern.

Cut open-work pattern (figs. 110 and 111).—This pattern, more of the nature of lace than any of the former, is well adapted for trimming, not only household articles but also church furniture, altar-cloths and the like, which are required to wash, as it can be worked in any width.

Fig. 110, a magnified representation of the work in process of execution, shows alternately, ten threads withdrawn each way and six left, with open spaces between. The arcs are worked over three carefully laid threads, carried across from the middle of one bar to the middle of the bar at right angles to it, the wheels on the other hand are begun and finished at the same corner. Overcast the cut edges, and hem-stitch the outside layer of stuff (figs. 61 and 62).

FIG. 110. CUT OPEN-WORK PATTERN. Fig. 110. Cut open-work pattern.
Fig. 111 in process of execution.
FIG. 111. CUT OPEN-WORK PATTERN. Fig. 111. Cut open-work pattern.
Materials:
Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 50 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.

Greek cut open-work pattern (fig. 112).—After the foregoing explanations, no difficulty will be found in copying the beautiful Greek cut open-work pattern, illustrated in fig. 112. Here, we have in the original, 48 threads drawn out in the middle, both ways, from one straight bar to another, (these bars being darned) with open spaces between; and in the lower and narrower division, 21 threads drawn out each way. The cut edges, from bar to bar, are hem-stitched on both sides, leaving four threads of the stuff between.

The long bars, in the second figure, are button holed on both sides, those with the picots, on one side only.

FIG. 112. GREEK CUT OPEN-WORK PATTERN. Fig. 112. Greek cut open-work pattern.
Materials:
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 20 to 100 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.

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FOOTNOTES:

[A] See, at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.


NET STRIPE, IN IMITATION OF BRUSSELS LACE. Net stripe, in imitation of brussels lace.