The Lido, the most fashionable sea-bathing place in Italy (height of season July and Aug.), is reached either by the direct steamers or by those coming from the railway-station (p. 419, 420). An electric tramway connects the pier with the Bath Establishment (café-restaurant) and with the large hotels on the shore.—See also Baedeker’s Northern Italy.

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Trieste.—Railway Stations, 1. Stazione Meridionale (S. Station; Pl. B, C, 2; buffet), 10 min. to the N. of the Piazza della Borsa, for Vienna, Abbazia and Fiume, and Cervignano (Venice).—2. Stazione dello Stato or di Sant’ Andrea (State Railway Station; Pl. A, 6), at the S. end of the Old Harbour (p. 426), 15 min. to the S.W. of the Piazza della Borsa, for the Tauern Railway, and for Assling and Vienna. Cabs, see below; hotel-omnibus 1 K.

Arrival by Sea. The Austrian Lloyd steamers anchor in the New Harbour (p. 426), at Moles I-III, near the Dogana (Pl. B, 2, 3) and the S. Station, or at the Molo San Carlo (Pl. B, 4; excursion-steamer ‘Thalia’).

Hotels. Grand-Hôtel, Riva dei Mandracchio, adjoining the Lloyd Palace (p. 426), a first-class house, to be opened in 1911; Hôt. de la Ville (Pl. a; C, 4), Riva Carciotti, with first-class restaurant, high charges, variously judged; Hôt. Volpich all’ Aquila Nera (Pl. d; C, 4), with good café-restaurant, R. 3–8 K, B. 1 K 20 h, D. 3 K, Hôt. Toniato (Pl. h; C, 4), R. 3–10 K, both Via San Nicolò, good; Hôt. Balkan (Pl. c; C, 3), Piazza della Caserma, R. from 3 K, B. 70 h, D. 2 K 80 h; Hôt. Vanoli (Pl. k; B, 4, 5), Piazza Grande 2; Hôt. Delorme (Pl. b; C, 4), Via del Teatro 5; Hôt. Central (Pl. f; C, 4), Via San Nicolò 15, R. from 2 K 50–4 K 50 h, B. 1 K 20 h.

Cafés. Caffè degli Specchi, Caffè al Municipio (in the town-hall), Orientale (in the Lloyd Palace), all in Piazza Grande; Stazione, Piazza della Stazione.

Restaurants at the hotels. Also, Restaurant Dreher, Via della Cassa di Risparmio (Pl. C, 4), near the Old Exchange (p. 426); La Cooperativa, Piazza San Giovanni 5 (Pl. D, 3, 4).

Cabs. From or to the stations 1 K 60 h (9 p.m. to 6 a.m. t2 K); in the inner town per drive with one horse 1 K (at night 1 K 20 h), farther out 1 K 40 or 1 K 60 h; by time: ½ hr. 1 K 20 h, at night 1 K 60 h, ¾ hr. 1 K 60 or 2 K 20 h, 1 hr. 2 K or 2 K 80 h, each ¼ hr. more 50 or 60 h (with pair, 1 K 40 or 1 K 60 h; 2 K 20 or 2 K 40 h; 2 K 80 or 3 K 20 h; 70 or 80 h). Trunk 50 h; small articles carried inside free, outside 20 h.

Tramways from the Boschetto (beyond Pl. E, 2) viâ the Piazza della Borsa and Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea (p. 427) to Servola (p. 427); from the S. Station to Barcola (p. 427), etc.—Electric Hill-Tramway (views on left, best to sit backward), from the Piazza della Caserma (Pl. C, D, 3) viâ (2½ M.) Obelisco (80 h) in ½ hr. to (3¾ M.) the rail, station of Opčina (p. 427; 1 M. to the S.W. from the S. Station).

Motor Omnibus in the forenoon, on week-days only, every hour to Miramar (p. 427; return-fare 3 K).

Steamboat Lines. Austrian Lloyd (offices in Lloyd Palace, Pl. B, 4) to Venice (daily in summer, in 4–6½ hrs.; in winter Tues., Thurs., Sat., returning Mon., Wed., and Frid.); quick boats to Alexandria; other lines to Syria and to Port Said (comp. p. 418); quick boats to the Piræus (for Athens) and Constantinople (R. 78), etc.; Cunard Line (agents, Schröder & Co.), viâ Fiume, Palermo, Naples, and Gibraltar to New York (R. 16); Austro-American Line (office Via Molin Piccolo 2) to Buenos Ayres, to Almeria, Cadiz, and Las Palmas, to New York, and to Patras (R. 78) and Palermo; German Levant Line to Tunis, Algiers, and Oran; Hungarian-Croatian Co. (agent, Maule, Riva dei Pescatori 16) and Croatian Steamboat Co. to Fiume.—Local Steamers (from Molo San Carlo, Pl. B, 4) to Barcola (p. 427), half-hourly in summer, and to Miramar (p. 427) twice daily.

Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. 12; C, 3), Piazza delle Poste.

Consuls. British Consul-General, J. B. Spence; vice-consul, N. Salvary.—United States Consul, M. G. Hotschick; vice-consul O. Demartini.—Lloyd’s Agent, R. Greenham, Via San Lazzaro 15.

English Church Services, in the Via San Michele 1714, every Sun. at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m.

Trieste (pop. 221,000, Italians, Slovenians, and Germans; in 1758 about 6400 only), the Roman Tergeste, the chief seaport of Austria and in the E. Mediterranean, lies on the E. shore of the Bay of Trieste, at the head of the Adriatic and at the foot of the Karst or Carso Plateau (1945 ft.), which is often visited by N.E. gales (Bora). Having become the heiress of Venice Trieste was a free harbour from 1719 to 1891; in 1833 it became the seat of the Austrian Lloyd, the oldest and one of the greatest of the steamboat companies in the Mediterranean. The harbour is entered by ca. 12,000 vessels annually (imports 573, exports 508 million florins). The new Tauern Railway, completed in 1909, the direct route to the Baths of Gastein, the Tyrol, and thence to Germany, is expected to give a new impulse to the trade of the city.

The Harbour comprises the Porto Vecchio (Pl. A, B, 4), sheltered by the Molo Santa Teresa (Pl. A, 5; lighthouse) of 1756, the Porto Nuovo (Pl. A, 1–3), with its four moles and a breakwater 1186 yds. long, constructed in 1867–83, and the Porto Nuovo di Sant’ Andrea or Francesco Giuseppe Primo (Pl. A, B, 7). The last, in the Bay of Muggia, was completed in 1910. Between the Porto Nuovo and Porto Vecchio is the Canal Grande (Pl. C, 4), completed in 1756, for small vessels only.

Near the old harbour are the two busiest squares in the town, the Piazza Grande (Pl. B, C, 4) and the Piazza della Borsa. In the Piazza Grande are a marble Statue of Charles VI. and the Maria Teresa Fountain (1751). On its E. side rises the Municipio or town-hall (Pl. C, 4). Next to the sea are pleasure-grounds; at the S. end of these is the Lloyd Palace (Pl. B, 4); at the N. end is the Luogotenenza (or governor’s residence; Pl. 7, C, 4).

To the N. of the Piazza Grande are the Theatre (Teatro Comunale Giuseppe Verdi, Pl. C, 4) and the Tergesteo (Pl. 13; C, 4), the new exchange, built in 1852. The Borsa, or old exchange (Pl. C, 4), is now the seat of the chamber of commerce.

The Via del Corso (Pl. C, D, 4), the main street of Trieste, running to the E. from the Piazza della Borsa, separates the new town from the streets of the old town, which ascend the castle-hill. The old Castello (Pl. D, 5) now contains the barracks. Fine views are obtained from the terraces of the Convento dei Cappuccini (Pl. D, 4, 5) and of the Cathedral (Basilica San Giusto; Pl. 3, D, 5; closed 12–3), which is composed of three early-Christian churches (6th cent.), united in the 14th century.

Between the cathedral and the Piazza Grande are the open-air Museo Lapidario (Pl. 9; C, 5), Via della Cattedrale 9, and the Arco di Riccardo (Pl. 1a; C, 5), the remains of a Roman arch.

In the Piazza Lipsia, to the S.W. of the Piazza Grande, rises the Commercial and Nautical Academy (Pl. 1; B, 5), containing the Museo Civico of natural history and antiquities. Near it is the Piazza Giuseppina (Pl. B, 5), with a bronze monument by Schilling to the Archduke Maximilian (d. 1867; see below).

Environs. By the Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea (Pl. A-E, 6, 7), past the Stabilimento Tecnico (Pl. B, 7) and Lloyd Arsenal (Pl. C, D, 7), to (2½ M.) Servola (tramway, p. 425).—By hill-tramway (p. 425) to *Obelisco (1125 ft.; Hotel), with terrace; walk thence to the N.W. along the foot of the Karst to the Belvedere (1303 ft.; fine view; best in the evening).

The *Excursion to Miramar is best made in the afternoon; the traveller should ascertain whether or not the park and château are open. The highroad (4½ M.; motor-omnibus, see p. 425) skirts the coast. We may take the train also from the S. Station to (5 M.) Miramar or to (5½ M.) Grignano and descend thence in ¼ hr. (or ½ hr.) to Miramar, or take the tramway (p. 425) to Barcola (sea-baths; Hôt. Excelsior) and walk thence to (2½ M.) Miramar (motor-omnibus 60 h). The pleasantest route, however, is that of the steamer (p. 425),—The imperial château of Miramar, on the beautiful Punta di Grignano, was built in 1854–6 by Archd. Maximilian. It was here that he accepted the imperial crown of Mexico (1864). The château, which has a charming park, is open to the public (10–12 and 3–5, in winter 2–4; adm. 60 h).

From the S. station of Opčina (pronounced Óptchina; see p. 425; ordinary trains only stop here) directly in ½ hr. (or from Trieste viâ Miramar, 10½ M. Nabresina, and 18 M. Opčina in 1¼–2½ hrs.) to (10 or 28 M.) Divača (pronounced Divátcha; 1418 ft.; Buffet, also R. 2 K 80 h, good; quarters also at the Restaurant Obersnel), station for (1 M.) Kronprinz Rudolf’s Grotto (tickets, etc. at the buffet), for the (¾ hr.) Stephanie-Warte (1428 ft.; view), and for the grand Cataracts and Caverns of St. Canzian (tickets and guides at the inn of Joh. Gombač at Matavun, ½ hr. below the Stephanie-Warte, ¾ hr. from Divača).

See also Baedeker’s Austria-Hungary.

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The Italian Steamers from Venice to Alexandria usually leave the lagoons to the N. of the Lido (p. 424), avoiding Chioggia and the marshy delta of the Po. They then steer down the Adriatic Sea towards Ancona. In clear weather we obtain a superb view of the Alps, of the Euganean hills to the N.W., and of the Apennines, whose offshoots come close down to the Adriatic near Rimini.

Ancona (Hôt. Roma e Pace, etc.; Brit, vice-consul; pop. 33,300, incl. about 6000 Jews), 140 M. to the S.E. of Venice, a strongly fortified town and the busiest seaport on the E. coast of Italy, is splendidly situated between the headlands of Monte Astagno and Monte Guasco, the N.W. spurs of Monte Conero (p. 428).

The Harbour, an oval basin open towards the W., is considered the best in Italy. The well-preserved Arch of Trajan, in marble, of 115 A.D., and a Triumphal Arch of the time of Pope Clement XII. (1730–40) recall the two founders of the N. quays. The Banchina, on the E. side of the harbour, is a modern quay (1880).

From the Dogana we may walk to the E. in a few minutes to the church of Santa Maria della Piazza, with its lavishly decorated façade (1210), and to the late-Gothic Loggia dei Mercanti (Exchange; 1454–9). A little to the E. is the Prefettura (15–16th cent.), with its fine quadrangle and a superb Renaissance archway.

The Via del Comune, near this, leads to the N., past the Palazzo del Comune (of 1493, but much modernized), to the *Cathedral (San Ciriaco; closed 12 to 4.30), on Monte Guasco, a fine point of view. The church, in which Byzantine and Romanesque forms are mingled, dates from 1128–89; the fine porch is of the 13th century.

The Steamers round the N. pier, and beyond Monte dei Cappuccini (lighthouse) pass Monte Conero (1877 ft.; the ancient Promontorium Cunerum), crowned with a Camaldulensian monastery. This limestone mass does not form part of the Apennines, in front of which it lies, and geologically considered is perhaps, like Monte Gargano (see below), a relic of the great Dalmatian limestone tableland (p. 429).

The coast recedes. In clear weather we sight in succession the summits of the Central Apennines, snow-clad till July: Monte Vettore (8130 ft.), the highest of the Monti Sibillini, the Gran Sasso d’Italia (9561 ft.) in the Abruzzi, and the Maiella, with Monte Amaro (9170 ft.).

After some time we pass the four low Trémiti Islands, the mythical Insulae Diomedeae, and then the rocky island of Pianosa (ancient Planasia), beyond which we sight Monte Gargáno (3464 ft.; Mons Garganus), once, as late as the tertiary age, an island separated from the mainland by a strait.

Off the lighthouse of Vieste, on the E. side of the peninsula, we steer away from the Bay of Manfredonia and due S.E. to—

Bari (Hôt. Cavour, Corso Vittorio Emanuele; Caffè del Risorgimento, at the hotel; Brit. vice-cons. and U. S. cons. agent; pop. 73,400), the ancient Barium, a provincial capital and the largest trading town in Apulia. As in the time of Horace, this is the part of the Adriatic where fish are most abundant.

From the Porto Nuovo, on the N.W. side of the old town, Monte Gargano, often cloud-capped, is visible even in rainy weather. The small Porto Vecchio, on the E. side, admits small craft only.

The sights of the old town are the Castle, once that of the Hohenstaufen, dating from Emp. Frederick II. (1223; now barracks and signalling station), the Cathedral, a Romanesque church of the 12th cent. modernized in 1745, and the church of San Nicóla, dedicated to St. Nicholas of Bari. San Nicola and the small church of San Gregorio near it date from the end of the 11th century.—The old town and the new (Borgo) are separated by the broad Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which ends in pleasant promenades.

Beyond Bari we skirt the coast, where in the seaports of Mola di Bari, Polignano a Mare, and Monopoli, with their white houses, we see the first signs of the Orient. The Faro di Penna, the lighthouse on Capo Gallo, and the lighthouses in the islands of Sant’ Andrea (see below) and Le Petagne mark the approach to (475 M.) Brindisi (see below).

The Austrian Lloyd Steamers, on leaving Trieste (p. 425), steer to the S.W. through the Bay of Trieste, avoiding the numerous bays of the N.W. coast of Istria; then, beyond the lighthouse of Salvore, the ancient Silvium Promontorium, they keep in sight of the hilly, olive-clad W. coast of Istria. We pass the small coast-towns of Umago, Cittanuova, and Parenzo (ancient Parentium), then the lighthouse on the Marmi Bank, the Canal di Leme, a kind of fiord, backed by Monte Maggiore (4580 ft.), and the harbour of Rovigno, sheltered by cliffs (scogli).

Beyond the cliff of San Giovanni in Pélago (lighthouse) we pass the Isŏle Brioni, where the Venetians once quarried stone for their palaces and churches. Fine view of the deeply cut bay of Pola, the chief naval seaport of Austria, used also by the Romans of the imperial age as a naval harbour.

Beyond Cape Promontore (ancient Polaticum Promontorium), the flat S. extremity of Istria, with a lighthouse on the Porer Cliff, a delightful view in clear weather is revealed of the Dalmatian islands, relics of the ancient Dalmatian limestone plateau, now submerged in the Adriatic. The most conspicuous are Lussin (Apsorus Insula), culminating in Monte Ossero (1929 ft.), and to the E., overtopped by it, Unie and Sansego with their lighthouses.

We pass the large islands of Lunga or Grossa and Incoronata (Celadussae Insulae), lying off the coast near Zara. A good way farther on we sight the rocky islet of Pomo, midway between Dalmatia and the E. coast of Italy; then the islands of Sant’ Andrea (1001 ft.), Busi (788 ft.; containing the Spelonca di Ballon, resembling the blue grotto of Capri), and Lissa (1920 ft.; ancient Issa), where the Austrian fleet defeated the Italian in 1866.

Between the islands of Cazza (797 ft.) and Lagosta (1368 ft.; ancient Ladesta) and the Italian island-group of Pelagosa, we may descry Monte Gargano (p. 428) to the S.W. in clear weather.

We now steer straight towards the Faro di Penna (p. 428).

Brindisi.—The Quay is on the N.E. side of the town; the Station, on the S.W. side, is ¾ M. from the quay. Between them runs the Corso Garibaldi, continued to the W. by Corso Umberto Primo.

Hotels (charges should be agreed upon beforehand). Grand-Hôt. International, at the quay, R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; Albergo Europa, Corso Garibaldi 147, R. from 2 fr.; Alb. Centrale, Corso Garibaldi 67, near the harbour; these two, with restaurants, fairly good.—Café Caprez.

Cab (bargaining necessary) from station to quay 60 c., 2 pers. 1 fr., 3 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; ½ hr. 2, 1 hr. 3 fr.; at night 20 c. more; trunk 20 c.

Post & Telegraph Office, Corso Umberto Primo and on the quay.

British Consul, S. G. Cocoto.

Steamboat Offices. Società Nazionale, Via Margherita 32; Austrian Lloyd, Thos. Cook & Son, Strada Marina.—The steamers are generally moored at the quay; otherwise, landing or embarkation 60 c.—Lloyd’s Agent, Sig. Nervegna.—English Church Service in winter.

Brindisi (pop. 22,000), a quiet town, the seat of an archbishop, has been ever since ancient times an important starting-point for the East. In the middle ages its harbour was often sought by the Crusaders, and hosts of travellers now pass through it on their way to or from Egypt, India, Australia, etc. The inner harbour, sheltered from every wind, consists of two natural creeks formed by erosion; in the southmost, the Seno di Ponte Piccolo, 492 yds. long, the large steamers are easily berthed. The channel connecting the inner harbour with the outer had become choked with sand in the later middle ages, but was reopened in 1755 and lined with masonry in 1866. On the island of Sant’ Andrea, outside the harbour, rises a castle of the 15th cent., now a quarantine station.

The town offers few sights. On a height close to the quay stands a Column, 62 ft. high, with a rich capital containing figures of gods. Adjacent is the base of a second column. The unfinished inscription on the first mentions Lupus Protospatha, a Byzantine governor, who restored the town in the 10th cent. after its destruction by the Saracens. These columns are said to have marked the end of the Via Appia which led from Rome to Tarentum and Brundisium, and they perhaps bore a beacon-fire. The Gothic Castle, with its huge round towers, on the N. creek, to the W. of the town, built by Emp. Frederik II. about 1235 and strengthened by Charles V., now contains a bagno for galley convicts. The baptistery of San Giovanni al Sepolcro (11th cent.), with its fine portals and frescoes, is now a museum of antiquities. The Cathedral, in its present form, is of the 18th cent.; at the corner of a street opposite is a mediæval house with an elaborate balcony. The Norman church of San Benedetto (early 13th cent.) has an interesting side-portal and fine cloisters. Santa Lucia has a crypt with relics of Byzantine frescoes.

Leaving Brindisi the Steamer next passes through the Straits of Otranto, the entrance to the Adriatic, about 47 M. in breadth, within sight at first of the flat and marshy coast of Apulia, with the lighthouse of San Cataldo. To the E., on the coast of Albania, rise the Acroceraunian Mts. (p. 496).

Far away to the left appear the Othonian Islands (p. 496), belonging to Greece, and the W. coast of Corfu (p. 495).

Steering through the Ionian Sea we near the W. coast of Kephallenía (p. 500) and Zante (p. 502). Off the Strophades (p. 502) we sight the Messenian Peninsula, with Mt. Ægaleon (p. 502).

Beyond the Œnussae Islands (p. 493) we proceed to the E.S.E. till at length we pass the W. coast of Crete (p. 415) and the island of Gavdos (p. 418). We then lose sight of land until near Alexandria or Port Said (comp. p. 418).

Arrival. Most of the steamers are berthed at the quay in the inner harbour (otherwise the fare to or from the steamer is 2 pias., at night 3 pias., each trunk 1 pias.). After the formalities of the sanitary authorities are concluded, the care of heavier baggage is entrusted to one of the Arabian hotel porters, or to Cook’s agents (p. 432), who wear an official cap or badge. The inclusive charge to the hotel or to the railway-station is 15–20 pias., which through-passengers to Cairo may sometimes pay in advance at one of the tourist agencies before starting on their journey. The custom-house examination is usually lenient.

Railway Station. Gare du Caire or Bab el-Guedid (Pl. G, 5; buffet), near the old Porte Moharrem Bey.

Hotels (English style). Savoy Palace (Pl. g; H, 4), Rue de la Porte de Rosette 35, R. 40–70,. B. 10, déj. 20, D. 30, pens. 80, omn. 5 pias.; Metropole Hotel (Pl. k; F, G, 3), Rue Avéroff, near the E. harbour, R. 20–30, B. 6, déj. 15, D. 20, pens. 40–60, omn. 5 pias., well spoken of; Excelsior Hotel (Pl. a; H, 4), Rue de la Porte de Rosette 15; Grand-Hôtel (Pl. b; F, 4), Square Ste. Catherine, R. from 25, B. 6, déj. or D. 20, pens. 60–80, omn. 5 pias.; Windsor Hotel (Pl. d; G, 3), Rue Avéroff 7, near the E. harbour, R. from 17, déj. 15, D. 20, pens. from 50 pias.; Hôt. Bristol (Pl. i; G, 4), Rue de la Gare de Ramleh; Hôt. des Voyageurs (Pl. f; F, 4), Rue de l’Eglise Ecossaise 4, pens. 11 fr.; Hôt. Bonnard (Pl. e; F, 3), Rue Champollion 7, pens. from 42 pias.—Hôtels Garnis. Hôt. du Nil (Pl. h: F, 3), Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 11; Hôt. Continental (Pl. c; F, 4), Rue de France 2.

Cafés (cup of Arabian coffee 1 pias.). Several in Place Méhémet Ali (Pl. F, 4), etc.—Confectioners. Confiserie Albengo, Rue Chérif Pacha 17; Groppi, same street, No. 33; Zola, Rue Toussoun Pacha 3; Sault, Rue Chérif Pacha 26.

Restaurants. Ristorante Firenze, Rue de la Poste 14 (Pl. F, 3, 4); Restaurant Universel, Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 9 (Pl. F, 4); same street, Nos. 3 and 6, Old Bourse Bar and Spathis; Castelli, Rue Chérif Pacha 1.

Tramways (see Plan), all diverging from Place Méhémet Ali. Uniform fare, 1st cl. 10, 2nd cl. 5 mill., with right to one change of car.—Electric line to Ramleh (p. 436) every 5 min. till midnight (dep., see Pl. G, 3).—There are in addition several services of Motor Omnibuses plying within the town and to the suburbs.

Cabs (Arabic arabîyeh). In the town, drive of 10 min. 2 pias., with two horses 3 pias.; 20 min. 2½ or 4 pias.; ½ hr. 3 or 5 pias.; hr. 6 or 9 pias.; each addit. ¼ hr. 1½ or 2 pias.; from steamer to railway-station 3 or 5 pias. (See tariff in vehicle as to suburbs). The aid of a friend who speaks the language is desirable in bargaining for long drives.

Post Office (Pl. F, 3), open 7–12 and 2 to 9.30. Postage, see p. 441. France has its own post-office, Rue de la Gare de Ramleh 2.—Telegraph Offices. Egyptian, Rue Tewfik Premier 1; British, Rue du Télégraphe Anglais 5 (Pl. F, 4).

Consulates. British (Pl. 6; H, 3), Rue de l’Hôpital Egyptien: consul-general, D. E. Cameron; vice-consul, E. H. Mulock.—United States, Rue Chérif Pacha 21; consul, D. R. Birch; vice-consul, F. L. Romeo.

Tourist Agents. Thos. Cook & Son, Rue de la Porte de Rosette 2; Clark, Grand-Hôtel; Hamburg-American, Square Ste. Catherine (Pl. F, 4); F. Th. Fotiades & Co., Rue Chérif Pacha 22.

Physicians. Dr. Morrison, Place Méhémet Ali; Dr. Webb Jones, Rue de Stamboul; Dr. Elkins (Government Hospital); Dr. Forster (lady-doctor); Dr. Hoddad, Rue de la Gare de Ramleh 29.

Steamboat Offices. Peninsular & Oriental, Rue Avéroff (Haselden & Co.; ‘Box 153’); Messageries Maritimes (RR. 67, 72), Ricard, Rue de l’Eglise Debbane 5; Austrian Lloyd (RR. 68, 72), Rue de la Porte de Rosette; Società Nazionale (RR. 67, 68, 72), Capt. Baldovino, Rue Sésostris 12; Khedivial Mail Steamship Co. (RR. 72, 75, 76), Rue Centrale; North German Lloyd (R. 67) and Rumanian Mail (R. 76), Müller & Co., Rue Sésostris 16; German Levant Line (R. 72), Stross, No. 11, same street; White Star, Ross & Co., Rue de la Marine; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. (RR. 72, 75, 76), Reidemeister, Rue St. Marc 1.

Banks (usually 9–12 and 3–5). Ottoman, Place Méhémet Ali 5 (Pl. F, 4); National Bank of Egypt, Rue Toussoun Pacha 4 (Pl. G, 4); Anglo-Egyptian, Rue Chérif Pacha 7; Crédit Lyonnais, same street, No. 4; Bank of Egypt, Rue Tewfik 4; Deutsche Orientbank (Pl. F, 4), Rue Adib 4.

Photographs. Reiser & Binder, Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 6 (also art-dealers); Lassave, Rue de l’Eglise Debbane 7; Fettel & Bernard, Rue Toussoun Pacha 1. Photographical requisites at Delmar’s, Rue Tewfik Premier.

Theatres. Zizinia (Pl. G, 4), Rue de la Porte de Rosette, often closed; French and Italian operas, alternating after 1st Jan. with Cairo.—Variety Theatres (all with gardens): Alhambra (Pl. G, 4); Nuovo Teatro Alhambra, cor. of Rue Misalla and Rue de la Gare de Ramleh (Pl. G, 3).—Jardin Rosette, Rue de la Porte Rosette (Pl. H, 4).

Churches. English (St. Mark’s; ‘Egl. anglicane’; Pl. F, 4), Place Méhémet Ali; chaplain, Ven. Archdeacon Ward, M. A.; services on Sun. at 8, 11, and 6.15 o’clock.—Presbyterian (St. Andrew’s; Pl. 1, F, 3, 4), Rue de l’Eglise Ecossaise; service on Sun. at 10.30 a.m.—American Mission (‘Egl. améric.’; Pl. G, 4), Rue Sidi el-Metwalli.

One Day, when time is limited. Forenoon, Place Méhémet Ali (p. 434), the Arab and Turkish Quarters (p. 434); tramway or cab to Pompey’s Pillar (p. 435); *Catacombs of Kôm esh-Shukâfa (p. 435). Afternoon, Rue Chérif Pacha (p. 435) and Museum (p. 436). A ‘billet cumulatif’ obtained at the Museum (8 pias.) admits also to Pompey’s Pillar and the Catacombs.

Alexandria, called by the Arabs and Turks Iskanderîeh, the second town of Egypt, strongly fortified, and one of the most important trading places on the Mediterranean, lies in 31° 11′ N. lat. and 29° 53′ E. long., at the W. end of the Nile Delta (p. 418), on a strip of land separating Lake Mareotis from the sea. The population is about 377,000, incl. 48,000 Europeans (‘Franks’), chiefly Greeks and Italians, but many French and Austrians and a lesser number of English and Germans. The Moslems live mostly in the N. and W. quarters (comp. p. 434), the Europeans chiefly in the E. quarter or in Ramleh (p. 436).

Alexandria was founded in 331 B. C. by Alexander the Great, who endeavoured to blend the land of the Pharaohs with his new Greek empire. His Egyptian governor and successor, Ptolemy I. Soter (323–286), made Alexandria a centre of art and science. He founded the Museum, an institute for the promotion of science and poetry, to which the famous Alexandrine library was attached. The highly advantageous position of the town, which was connected, through Lake Mareotis, with the Nile by several navigable channels, and whose harbour (unlike the other older seaports at the mouth of the Nile) was protected by marine currents from being silted up, led to the surprisingly rapid development of its trade and prosperity under the Ptolemies. Alexandria had attained its zenith when, in 48 B. C., the Romans intervened in the quarrels between Cleopatra and her husband Ptolemy XIV. Both Caesar, who entered Alexandria in triumph after the murder of Pompey at Pelusium, and Antony were ensnared by Cleopatra. After the defeat of Antony’s partisans Augustus founded the large E. suburb of Nicopolis. When at its prime the city is said to have had a population of half-a-million inhabitants. The Greek element predominated, after which came the Egyptian, while a Jewish community had existed here ever since the time of Ptolemy I. Christianity also took root in Alexandria at an early period, having been first proclaimed here, according to tradition, by St. Mark the Evangelist.

In the time of Trajan (96–117) the revolt of the Jews, who then composed one-third of the population, gave rise to terrible bloodshed and disaster. A century later the emperor Caracalla (211–7) paid a fateful visit to the city, and, to punish the citizens for their contumacy, ordered many of them to be massacred and the famous academy to be closed. The city suffered even more severely from the persecution of the Christians under Decius (250) and Valerian (257), from the plague in the reign of Gallienus, and from its battles with the Palmyrenes (260–8). Having become, like Carthage, a stronghold of Christian erudition, Alexandria afterwards became the chief scene of the embittered controversies between Arius (d. 336), a presbyter of the city, and the ‘orthodox’ bishops Alexander and Athanasius (328–78). Even after the victory of the Athanasians at the councils of Nicæa (325) and Constantinople (381) the Arian heresy, which admitted the divine nature of Christ but denied his identity with the Father, subsisted for centuries among the Germanic tribes.

Under Theodosius I. (379–95) paganism received its death-blow, when the patriarch Theophilus waged war against all heathen temples and monuments. But the material prosperity of the city declined at the same time. The citizens were no longer able to pay for the cleansing of the Nile and the maintenance of the canals, and they were further impoverished when the patriarch Cyril banished the Jews. In 619 the Persian Chosroes made Alexandria his base for the conquest of Egypt. The country was next overrun by the hordes of caliph Omar, whose general Amr ibn el-Âsî captured Alexandria in 641. Its importance now declined still further in the same proportion as Cairo, the new capital of the conquerors, rose to wealth and importance. In 1303 and 1326 a great part of the city, with the Pharus (p. 434), was destroyed by earthquakes. Lastly, the discovery of America and of the sea-route to India completed the ruin of its trade.

About the year 1800 the population of Alexandria had dwindled to about 5000, but Mohammed Ali (p. 414) wisely laid the foundations of a new era of prosperity. He improved the harbours and constructed canals. His great work was the Mahmûdîyeh Canal (p. 434), begun in 1819, which fertilized anew the environs of the city and again connected it with the interior of Egypt, which had long been obliged to export its produce by way of Damietta and Rosetta. Subsequent rulers also were zealous for the welfare of Alexandria. During the revolt of the national party under Arâbi Bey (1882) Alexandria was bombarded by the British fleet and the European quarter was burned down, but since then the city has resumed its steady and vigorous career of progress.

The old town of to-day lies partly on the Heptastadion, the embankment ‘seven stadia’ (about 1430 yds.) in length, which ever since the time of the Ptolemies has connected the mainland with the island of Pharos, but which in the course of centuries has been greatly widened. At the E. extremity of the island, now peninsula, rises the picturesque Fort Kâït Bey (Pl. D, E, 1), on the site of the famous ‘Pharus’, a lighthouse erected under Ptolemy II. Philadelphus by Sostratus of Cnidos, in 280–279; it was originally 400 ells (590 ft.) in height, and was deemed one of the seven wonders of the world; it is supposed to have been the prototype of the Egyptian minaret (comp. p. 445). The main or ‘great’ harbour of that period, protected by a huge embankment, is now the Port Est, the new quays of which afford a pleasant seaside walk and are being completed as a fashionable boulevard.

The Port Ouest, the ancient Eunostos (‘haven of happy return’), was little used till the later Roman age. Improved since 1871 it now consists of an inner basin of 475 acres, and a new outer harbour of 1750 acres (p. 418). From the beginning of the Gabbari Mole extend quays with warehouses along the E. side of this harbour to the Naval Arsenal (Pl. C, D, 3). Of the 2000 steamers entering the port annually more than half are under the British flag. The inner harbour is connected with the Mahmûdîyeh Canal (p. 435) by means of locks. The chief exports are cotton, cotton-seed, grain, beans, rice, sugar, onions, and tomatoes.

The Rue de la Marine (Pl. E, D, 5, 4; tramways, see p. 431) and its continuation the Rue Moutouch Pacha (Pl. D, 4, 3) form one of the chief approaches to the peninsula of Pharos (see above). Between the viceregal Palace of Râs et-Tîn (Pl. A, B, 3) and the Port Est lies the Turkish Quarter, with its pretty houses and a few gardens.

The Rue Râs et-Tîn, the main street of the N. quarters, leads past the Government Buildings (Pl. D, E, 3), to the S.E., to the Arab Quarter, lying on the ancient Heptastadion (see above) and containing several Sûks or markets, which present an interesting picture of Oriental life.

The Rue de France (Pl. E, F, 3, 4), the S.E. prolongation of the Rue Râs et-Tîn, leads to the Place Méhémet Ali (Pl. F, 4), the focus of European life, planted with trees and adorned with a Statue of Mohammed Ali (p. 444) on horseback. The chief buildings here are the Palais de Justice, the Bourse, and the English Church. The last is adjoined by St. Mark’s Building, belonging to the British community and used as a school and for official purposes. From the W. harbour the Place Méhémet Ali is reached by the Rue Bab el-Karasta (Pl. E, 5) and Rue Anastasi (Pl. E, F, 5, 4), skirting the lofty Fort Cafarelli or Napoléon (Pl. E, 5; signalling station).

A few paces to the S. of the Place Méhémet Ali lies the triangular Square Ste. Catherine (Pl. F, 4), named after the Catholic Church of St. Catharine. From this point we walk (or take a car or motor-omnibus, see p. 431) to the S.E. through the Rue Abou Dardah (Pl. F, 4, 5) and Rue de la Colonne Pompée (Pl. F, G, 6, 7), past the Sidi Amr Mosque (Pl. G, 6) and a large Cimetière Arabe (Pl. F, 6, 7), to a bare hill, on the right, covered with débris.

Here in the time of the Ptolemies rose the Serapeum, the most superb temple in the city, dedicated to Serapis, god of the lower regions. On the same site now stands Pompey’s Pillar (Pl. F, G, 7; adm. 3 pias.; see also p. 432), the grandest memorial of antiquity in the city. We ascend by steps to the plateau. All around are traces of recent excavations, chiefly bringing to light relics of Roman edifices. The column, composed of red granite from Assuan, is 88 ft. high including the mutilated base. It is perhaps a Christian monument of victory, dating from the time of Emp. Theodosius I. (p. 433), signalizing the destruction of the Serapeum (391). In the middle ages it was supposed to be the tomb of Pompey.

We follow the Rue Karmouss (Pl. G, 7, 8), which leads hence to the S. to the Mahmûdîyeh Canal, and diverging to the right viâ the Rue Bab el-Melouk, we pass a small mosque and reach (10 min.) the entrance (Pl. ‘E.’; F, 8) to the—

*Catacombs of Kôm esh-Shukâfa (Pl. F, 8; ‘hill of potsherds’), an Egyptian burial-place of the 2nd cent. A.D., hewn in the rock. Adm. from 8 a.m. till dusk (5 pias.; see also p. 432).

The tombs, discovered in 1900, consist of several stories and afford an excellent example of the characteristic Alexandrine blend of the Egyptian with the Græco-Roman style. They probably belonged to some Egyptian magnate. Around the principal chambers are plainer vaults for the domestics of the family. Modern stairs ascend to the restored entrance on the hill-top. The interior is rendered accessible by wooden bridges and lighted by electricity, but is partly under water.

A spiral staircase, lighted by a large round shaft, descends near a sarcophagus-chamber of later date to two stories. From the entrance to the upper story we enter a rotunda covered with a kind of dome. On the right are two smaller vaults with niches, sarcophagi, and shelf-tombs (loculi). On the left is a large chamber, the Triclinium Funebre, used for funeral banquets.

The stairs divide farther down, affording a survey of the principal chambers, and lead round the entrance to the *Tomb Chapel on the lowest floor, with three niches for sarcophagi. Round the chapel runs a gallery, accessible from the vestibule, with 91 shelf-tombs.

An important thoroughfare, leading to the N.E. from the Rue Abou Dardah (p. 434), is the Rue Sidi el-Metwalli (Pl. F, G, 5, 4), with its continuation the Rue de la Porte de Rosette (Pl. F-I, 4, 3). These streets unite at the end of the busy Rue Chérif Pacha (Pl. F, G, 4), a street of shops, coming from the Place Méhémet Ali (p. 434). This thoroughfare corresponds with the E. half of the Dromos, the main street of the ancient city, which ended at the Canopic Gate, the site of the now removed Porte de Rosette. In the Rue du Musée, a N. side-street, is the—

*Museum (Pl. H, 3), a building in the Greek style, which contains an extensive collection of Græco-Roman antiquities, mostly Alexandrine, found in catacombs and tombs. Adm. daily, 9–12 and 3 to 5.30, 2 pias. (see also p. 432; closed on Thurs. in summer).

From the ante-room we see the statue of Hercules in the transverse gallery between the main wings of the building (see below). The side-room contains a topographical collection. Room I (on the right). Christian antiquities, including tombstones and some of the terracotta flasks in which pilgrims brought holy oil from the tomb of St. Menas (d. 296) at Mariut.—Rooms II-V. Alexandrian coins, stamps from Greek amphoræ, etc.

Room VI. Inscriptions and tombstones. On the right, Ptolemaic *Tombstones (Nos. 83, 97, etc.), resembling those of Attica in the 4th cent. B.C.—Rooms VII-IX. Egyptian antiquities. (In Room VIII, No. 380. Fine bas-relief with a man, a harper, and singing-women.)

Rooms X & XI. Egyptian monuments and smaller sculptures. (In R. XI, No. 3704. Portrait-head in black basalt.)—Rooms XII & XIII. Portrait-busts and sculptures. (In R. XII, Case B, admirable small busts of Alexander; *66. Marble Head of Hercules or, according to others, of Zeus.)

Rooms XIV & XV. Architectural fragments. (In R. XV, No. 3, painted capitals from palaces of the Ptolemies.)—Room XVI. Sculptures.

Rooms XVII & XVIII. Small objects of art. In R. XVII glass; mummies with portraits of the deceased painted on wood (2nd cent. A.D.). In R. XVIII small clay figures of the Ptolemaic and Roman periods; among the former, *Figures of girls in the style of the Tanagra figurines.

Room XIX. A mosaic and cinerary urns from Shatbi.—Room XX. Tomb accessories.—Room XXI. Objects from tombs, including elegant bronze wreaths; terracotta figures.—Room XXII. Architectural fragments; mosaics from Canopus.

In the gallery crossing the garden is a colossal figure of Hercules.

From the Museum the Rue du Musée to the N.W., the broad Rue d’Allemagne to the left, and the Rue Missala to the right soon lead to the old Ramleh Railway Station, now used for the electric line (see p. 431) to Ramleh (i. e. ‘sand’), a villa suburb and sea-bathing place, inhabited in summer by wealthy Alexandrians and Cairenes. At San Stefano, the terminus, is the Hôtel Casino San Stefano, with a theatre and concert-rooms (adm. 5 pias.).

From Alexandria to Cairo, see R. 71.

70. Port Said.

Arrival. The steamers moor alongside the Quai François-Joseph or in the Bassin Ismaïl. If they are not berthed at the quay the fare for landing at the Custom House (Pl. 8) is 1½–2½ piastres (trunk 2, small packages 1 pias.). The North German Lloyd provides a steam-tender in winter, which lands passengers free of charge. Heavy luggage had better be entrusted to one of the hotel-porters, or to an agent of Messrs. Cook (comp. p. 431) or of the Hamburg-American Line.

Railway Station near Lake Menzaleh (p. 418), 10 min. to the W. of the Custom House.

Hotels. *Eastern Exchange Hotel (Pl. a), Rue Sultan Osman, pens. from 12s., English house; *Savoy (Pl. d), corner of Quai François-Joseph and Rue el-Tegara, with restaurant and bar, pens. from 62 pias. ; Hôt. Continental (Pl. b), Rue el-Tegara, with bar, pens. 10s. 6d.; Hôt. de la Poste (Pl. c), Rue du Nil.

Cab from the quay to the station 4 (at night 5) pias.