545 M. Steamers (agents at the Piræus, see pp. 494, 495; at Smyrna, p. 531; at Constantinople, pp. 538, 539). 1. North German Lloyd (comp. RR. 23, 24, 77), Mediterranean & Levant Service, in either direction every other Thurs.; from the Piræus to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2–2½ days (fare to Smyrna 40 or 28, to Constantinople 72 or 48 marks).—2. Messageries Maritimes (comp. RR. 23, 77), N. Mediterranean service, from the Piræus every other Mon. (from Constantinople Thurs.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 90 or 60 fr.); also the Marseilles, Constantinople, and Batum line, from the Piræus Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 3 days (fare 80 or 40 fr.).—3. Khedivial Mail Steamship Co. (comp. R. 76), from the Piræus Frid. (from Constantinople Tues.) aft., to Smyrna in 18 hrs., to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 52 or 39, and 91 or 61 fr.).—4. Austrian Lloyd (comp. R. 78), Greek-Oriental Line, from the Piræus Frid. even, (from Constantinople Mon.), to Smyrna in 2, to Constantinople in 5 days (fares 54 or 38, and 132 or 93 fr.).

Line XI of the Società Nazionale (pp. 493, 563) touches at Smyrna on the outward voyage only (Piræus to Constantinople 3½ days).

To Constantinople Direct. 1. Rumanian Mail Line, from the Piræus Sun. aft., in 24 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Frid. aft. in 23 hrs.).—2. Società Nazionale, Line XII, from the Piræus Thurs. night, in 32 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Wed. foren., in 31 hrs.); fares 101 fr. 30, 70 fr. 70 c.—3. Austrian Lloyd, fast steamers between Trieste and Constantinople, from the Piræus Sat. aft., in 35 hrs. (from Constantinople Sat. foren., in 29 hrs.); fare 90 or 60 fr.

Athens and the Piraeus, see pp. 502, 494. We first steer to the S.E. across the Bay of Ægina (p. 494), past the three pinnacles of Cape Zostēr, the southmost spur of Hymettos, and near the islets of Phleva (ancient Phabra; lighthouse) and Gaïdaronisi.

Beyond Cape Colonna or Kolonnaes (ancient Sunion), on which the columns of the temple of Poseidon are conspicuous, opens the Strait of Kea, between (left and right) the lonely Makronisi (922 ft.; ‘long island’; ancient Helena) and the fertile island of Kea (1863 ft.; formerly Keos), with its lighthouse on the headland of Hagios Nikolaos. On the left are the Petali Islands (Petaliae Insulae) in the bay of that name, and Hagios Elias (5264 ft.), the S. point of Euboea.

We next steer through the Straits of Doro (7½ M. in width; Ital. Canal d’Oro), where a strong N.E. current prevails and storms are frequently encountered. They lie between Eubœa and Andros (3199 ft.; 156 sq. M.), the largest of the Cyclades (p. 492), with the lighthouse on Cape Fassa. Beyond them we are in the open sea.

Halfway between Andros and Chios (p. 492) are the Kalogeros Cliffs, belonging to Greece. Most of the vessels leave them to the right and steer to the E.N.E. to the passage between the rocky island of Psara (ancient Psyra; notable for the revolt of the modern Greeks against the Turks) and Chios, with the bold and conspicuous Mt. Hagios Elias (4134 ft.; Pelinnaeon) at its N. end. To the N. appears the S. coast of Mytilini (p. 533).

Beyond the N. end of the Straits of Chios (p. 492) the Levant steamers (RR. 75, 76) round the steep limestone rocks of the Anatolian peninsula of Kara Burun, with the Boz Dagh (3920 ft.; ancient Mimas), and come in sight of the *Gulf of Smyrna, the ancient Sinus Hermaeus, which runs 34 M. inland. The entrance between (right and left) the headlands Kinlu Burun and Arslan Burun (Greek Cape Hydra) is 15 M. broad.

On the left, to the S. of Arslan Burun, near the islets of Drepanon and Oglak (lighthouse), lies the little bay of Phokia (Turk. Foja). This was the ancient Phocaea, the northmost Ionian town, whose bold mariners first opened up the W. Mediterranean to the Greeks (comp. p. 121). Farther to the S., beyond Cape Myrminghi (lighthouse), is the new estuary of the Gedis Chai (Hermos), flanked with swampy alluvial soil and salt-works.

After rounding the island of Kiösteni (Gr. Makronisi), which lies in front of the E. slope of the Boz Dagh (see above) and masks the Bay of Gülbagcheh, we sight to the S., beyond the Marathusa Islands, the houses of Hagios Joannes (quarantine station), on an islet in the Bay of Vurlá. Here once lay the Ionian town of Klazomenae. The plain of Vurlá is famed for its wine and ‘Smyrna figs’.

Opposite the hills of the ‘Two Brothers’ (Dyo Adelphia, Turk. Iki Kardash; 3252 ft.) we pass the narrow old channel of the Gedis Chai (lighthouse). On a peninsula on the right lies the Turkish Fort Sanjak Kalesí; farther on is the suburb of Göz Tepeh (p. 532). To the N.E. the imposing Yamanlar Dagh (p. 533) and the lofty Manissa Dagh (5905 ft.; ancient Sipylos) beyond it become more conspicuous. To the S. of the latter is a depression, beyond which rises the Takhtaly or Nif Dagh. Beside the sea rises the Pagos (p. 532) with its old walls and many cypresses. On its slopes, far to the S.W. and N.E., extends Smyrna.

Smyrna.—Arrival. As soon as permission to land is obtained the hotel-agents, guides, and boatmen come on board. Landing or embarkation, with baggage 1½ fr., but 2–3 fr. when the steamer anchors in the outer roads. As to the examination at the Custom House (Pl. B, 3), comp. p. 537. The porter (hamál) expects a few silver piastres.

Hotels. *Gr.-Hôt. Kraemer Palace (Pl. c; B, 3), Passage Kræmer (p. 532), with American bar, etc., R. 6–20, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–25 fr.; *Gr.-Hôt. Huck (Pl. a; B, 4), on the quay, nearly opposite the Douane, pens. 10–25 fr.; Hôt. de la Ville (Pl. b; B, 3; Ital. host), on the quay, pens. 10–12, D. 3 fr. (in the season, March-May, rather dearer).

Cafés (all on the quay). Kraemer, see above (also restaurant, beer, etc.); Klonaridis, in the Hôt. de la Ville; Café Costi, Café High Life, both Quai Anglais, etc.

Post Offices. British (Pl. 9; C, 4); French (Pl. 8; B, 4); etc.—Telegraph Offices. Turkish and Eastern Telegraph Co., on the quay, adjoining the Douane (1st floor).

Cabs at the hotels and railway-stations (bargain necessary). Drivers often ignorant and exorbitant. Drive 1 fr. to ½ mejidieh, hr. 1 mej.; ½ day about 2 mej.—Horses in the Place Fassulah (Pl. C, 3), about 2 mej. per day.

Tramway from Konak (Pl. A, 6) along the quay to Punta Station (Gare de la Pointe; Pl. E, 2), 7 metalliks; from Konak to Göz Tepeh (p. 532), 4 metalliks.

Local Steamers to Kordelio, Göz Tepeh, etc.

Steamboat Agents (offices all on the quay). North German Lloyd, Van der Zee (also for German Levant Line); Austrian Lloyd, Pussich; Khedivial Mail, Cohen; Messageries Maritimes, D. G. Alevra; Società Nazionale, Fratelli Missir; German Levant Line, Milberg; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Bégléry.

Banks. Banque Ottomane (Pl. B, 4); Crédit Lyonnais, Rue Franque (p. 532); Banque de Salonique and Banque d’Athènes.—Money Changers in front of the Hôt. Huck and the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4); a charge of 2–5 metalliks is made, according to amount. Perforated coins should be rejected.

Consulates. British: consul-general, H. D. Barnham; vice-consul, C. E. Heathcote Smith.—United States (Pl. 3; C, 3): consul-general, E. L. Harris; vice-consul, E. A. Magnifico.

English Church (Pl. E, 2), near Gare de la Pointe.

Smyrna, Turk. Izmir, the seat of the vali or governor of the Turkish province of Aidin, lies in 38° 26′ N. lat. and 27° 9′ E. long., in a bay between Sanjak Kalesí (p. 530) and the Punta (La Pointe; Pl. D, E, 1). As all the older harbours on the W. coast of Asia Minor have been choked by alluvial deposits, Smyrna has developed into the chief seaport of Anatolia and the largest city in Turkish Asia after Damascus. Population, excl. suburbs, about 200,000, incl. over 100,000 Greeks, 60,000 Turks, 20,000 Jews (p. 542), 12,000 Armenians, and 15,000 Europeans and Levantines. The chief languages are Greek, French, and Italian.

Smyrna was founded in the 11th cent. B.C. on the N. side of the bay of Burnabad (p. 533), about 2 M. to the N. of the present city. The Ionians of Colophon (p. 491) captured it for the sake of its trade in the 7th cent. and added it to their league of twelve cities. About 575 B.C. it was taken by the Lydian king Alyattes, who destroyed it and settled its inhabitants in villages. A new Smyrna, as planned by Alexander the Great, was founded later on the Pagos (p. 532) by the diadochi Antigonos and Lysimachos, and soon developed into one of the finest towns in Asia Minor. After the havoc wrought by terrible earthquakes in 178 and 180 A.D. the emperor Marcus Aurelius caused it to be rebuilt. For a time it was wrested from the Byzantine emperors by Turkish pirates (1084) and the Seljuks (p. 542). During the Latin domination in Constantinople (p. 542) Smyrna remained under the sceptre of the Greek emperor at Nikæa. In 1344 the Genoese and the Knights of St. John took the city under their protection, but in 1402 they were unable to save it from the ravages committed by Timur (p. 485), nor could they in 1424 prevent its capture by the Osmans. This ‘eye of Asia Minor’, as the Turks have called Smyrna, has risen to wonderful prosperity of late years.

The quays were built in 1868–80 and at the same time the Harbour, of 50 acres only, was protected by a breakwater 1400 yds. long and 19 yds. in breadth. The entrance is between the N.E. end of this breakwater and the N. pier (Pl. B, 3, 4) near the passport-office, passengers’ custom-house, and telegraph office. The local steamers (p. 531) are berthed between the N. and the S. mole (Pl. A, 4, 5; chief custom-house).

The great business thoroughfare is the Quay Street (Greek Prokymaea, Ital. Marina), over 2 M. long, skirting the Frank quarter (see below). In the S. part of this street, among the motley throng of sailors, dock-labourers, and traders of every nation, are often seen picturesque trains of camels, headed in some cases by a donkey. The N. part of the quay, with its theatres, cafés, and many handsome dwelling-houses, is of an entirely different character.

From the quay several alleys, the Kræmer Passage, the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4), and others, and the busy street Galatzo Sokak (Pl. B, C, 3) lead to the Frank Quarter. The main streets here, running parallel with the quay, are the so-called Parallel St., the Quai Anglais (Turk. Eski Balik Basar; Pl. B, C, 3, 4), the Maltese quarter, and above all the Franks’ Street, in sections bearing different names (Rue des Verreries, Rue Franque, Rue Trassa, etc.), and lined with many European and other shops.

To the E. of Rue Franque, passing the Rom. Cath. cathedral of St. Jean (Pl. C, 4), we come to the Greek Quarter, to which the lively streets Bella Vista (Pl. D, 2) and Oroman Sokak (Pl. D, 2, 3) also lead. The Greek Cath. cathedral of Hagia Photinē or Aï Fotini (Pl. B, 4) lies near the S.W. end of the Franks’ Street.

A little beyond Aï Fotini the street ends at the *Bazaar (Pl. B, 5; open till sunset), which vies in its picturesque variety with the Great Bazaar of Constantinople. Smyrna carpets, mostly from the interior, old embroidery, and modern silks may be bought here at reasonable prices. The so-called antiquities, however, are generally spurious. The bazaar is within the Turkish Quarter, on the site of ancient Smyrna, with its quiet streets ascending the Pagos (see below), and extending to the S.W. to the Moslem and the old Jewish Cemeteries. Near these, but difficult to find, are traces of the temples of Asklepios and Vesta (Pl. A, 7). Within the Turkish quarter lies the very unsavoury Jewish Quarter (Pl. B, C, 5, 6).

From the church of Aï Fotini we may walk through the Armenian Quarter, past the Armenian cathedral of St. Etienne (Pl. C, 5) and the Basma Khâné Station (Pl. D, 5), to the Caravan Bridge (Pl. E, 5), which the busy traffic with the interior crosses.

From the Moslem cemeteries (Pl. A, B, 7) mentioned above, or from the Caravan Bridge, we ascend in ½ hr. to the top of the *Pagos (525 ft.), which affords a superb view of the city, the bay, and the hills around. The extensive outer wall of the old Castle, dating from the Byzantine and Genoese periods, consists partly of the substructures and masonry of the Acropolis of king Lysimachos (p. 531). Of the Roman Theatre (Pl. C, D, 6, 7) and the Stadion (Pl. B, C, 7; p. 509) on the hill-side hardly a trace is left.

*Excursions. To Göz Tepeh (p. 530) by tramway or by local steamer (p. 531).—By local steamer or by railway (from the Basma Khâné Stat., see p. 532) to Kordelio (cafés; sea-baths), a little town prettily situated among gardens on the N. bank of the bay. From the steamer, to the E. of the Punta (p. 531), we see the Bay of Burnabad and the plain of that name, beyond which, on the Yamanlar Dagh (3202 ft.), is the site of Ancient Smyrna (p. 531).

Leaving Smyrna the Steamer passes the Kara Burun (p. 530) and usually steers to the W.N.W. out to sea. Astern we obtain a fine view of Chios. We soon skirt the beautiful S. coast of Mytilini or Mitylene (3084 ft.; ancient Lesbos; 673 sq. M.), the largest island in the Ægean Sea, and pass the narrow entrance of the far-penetrating Bay of Kalloni. Beyond Cape Sigri (Sigrium Promontorium) and the islet of Megalonisi (lighthouse) we sight the distant coast of Troas (see below).

Some of the vessels, beyond Arslan Burun (p. 530), steer to the N., close to the Anatolian coast, and past the finely varied scenery, of the Bay of Chandarli, the ancient Sinus Elaeates. On the N. bank of that bay, to the W. of the estuary of the Bakyr Chai (once Kaïkos), rises the Kara Dagh (2559 ft.; Cane Mons).

Beyond Cape Maltepe, a spur of Kara Dagh, and the Hagios Georgios Islands opens the Strait of Mytilini, 9 M. wide, lying between the island and the coast of ancient Mysia. On the right, far inland from Kabakum Bay, we sight the hills near Bergama, the famous Pergamum of the Greeks. On the hill-side to the left, beyond Cape Malea, the S.E. point of the island, lies Mytilini or Kastro (Turk. Midüllü), its capital, with a Genoese castle.

At the N. end of the strait, beyond the entrance to the harbour of Aivaly (Gr. Kydonia), and the Moshonisia Islands (Hekatonesoi), opens to the N.E. the broad Bay of Edremid (Adramyti), on which rises Kaz Dagh (5807 ft.), the ancient Ida. We next steer to the W. through the Muselim Sound, between the N. coast of Mytilini and the S. coast of Troas or the Troad, where once rose the loftily situated stronghold of Assos.

After passing cape Baba Burnu (Lectum Promontorium), the S.W. point of Troas, we follow the course of the direct steamers from Smyrna, past Cape Eski Stambul (‘Old Stambul’), the site of Alexandreia Troas, a town of the Diadochi, and through the Strait of Tenedos (3 M. broad). The island of Tenedos, famed in the Trojan wars, now abounding in windmills, rises in a trachytic double peak to a height of 627 ft.

At the N. end of the strait lies the islet of Gaïdaronisi (lighthouse). Far away to the W., in clear weather, we descry the island of Limnos (ancient Lemnos); to the N.W., beyond Imbros, towers the mountain-mass of Samothrake (5250 ft.).

Beyond Besika Bay, in front of which lie the volcanic islands of Tavshan Adalar (‘rabbit-islands’; once Kalydnae or Lagussae), we pass the hills bordering the W. side of the plain of Troy, the legendary scene of the Homeric battles. Between Hagios Dimitrios Tepeh (hill of St. Demetrius) and the Greek village of Yenishehr is the site of Sigeum or Sigeion. Near it the tumuli of ‘Achilles and Patroklos’ were the burial-places of that Athenian colony.

We now near the strongly fortified Dardanelles (p. xxxiv), the ancient Hellespont, now named after the ancient town of Dardanos (see below). The straits connect the Ægean Sea with the Sea of Marmora, a distance of 37½ M., and average ¾–4¾ M. in breadth, and 160–295 ft. in depth. They intersect a tableland, 820–925 ft. in height, of tertiary formation (yellow marl and marl-limestone of the upper miocene). The surface current (p. 557), sometimes setting as in the Bosporus at the rate of 5 M. an hour, causes serious difficulty to sailing-vessels, especially if wind and tide are both against them.

At the S.W. entrance to the Dardanelles, scarcely 2½ M. broad, lies a village on the Asiatic side with the ruined fortress of Kum Kaleh (light); opposite, on the Peninsula of Gallipoli, the ancient Thracian Chersonesus, is the fort of Sidd el-Bahr Kalesí.

Beyond Kum Kaleh we sight to the S., rising above the marshy plain of the Mendere Chai (Skamander), the low hill which was once the site of Troy (near Hissarlik), with the débris of the excavations. On the shore, to the W. of the mouth of the stream, lay the landing-place of the Greeks.

Passing the site of Dardanos (on the right) we soon reach the narrowest part of the straits (about 1475 yds.), commanded by the Dardanelles Castles built by Mohammed II. in 1470, with their new earthworks. On the European side is the picturesque Kilid Bahr (‘key of the sea’); on the Asiatic side is Kaleh Sultanieh or Boghaz Hissar, at the mouth of the Koja Chai (Rhodios). Under the protection of the latter lies the town of Chanak Kalesí (‘castle of pots’), usually called Dardanelles (pop. 16,700). While the steamer stops for way-leave the potters of the place offer their curiously shaped and painted vases for sale.

At the second-narrowest part of the straits (1585 yds.), where they bend to the N.E., once lay the towns of Sestos (left) and Abydos (right), now fort Nagara Kalesí (quarantine station; lighthouse). This was the traditional scene of the romance of Hero and Leander; it was here that Lord Byron swam across in 1810. Xerxes crossed the straits here in 480 B.C., Alexander the Great in 334 B.C., and the Turks in 1357.—On the coast, to the left, is the small plain of Ægospotamoi (now Karakova Dereh), off which the Spartans won a decisive victory over the Athenians in 405.

Near the N.E. end of the Dardanelles, on the right, lies the village of Lampsaki (Lampsakos) amid olive-groves and vineyards. To the left, on the steep projecting coast, is superbly situated the decayed town of Gallipoli (Kallipolis, ‘beautiful town’), the first European town captured in 1357 by Suleiman, son of Orkhân (p. 542).

The Dardanelles expand into the Sea of Marmora (p. xxxiv), the ancient Propontis, a basin of comparatively recent origin (extreme depth 4450 ft.), which like the Ægean Sea has been formed by the subsidence of large portions of the earth’s surface. On the Asiatic side, beyond Kara Burun (381 ft.), lies the Bay of Artaki, on the N. margin of the ancient Troas. Adjoining the bay is the plain of the Biga Sher Chai, the ancient Granikos, where in 334 Alexander the Great won his first victory over the Persians.

On the coast of ancient Phrygia rises the peninsula of Kapu Dagh (2625 ft.; once Arktonnesos island), flanked by the Pasha Liman islands and Marmora or Marmara (2326 ft.), where white marble for Constantinople has been quarried since ancient times.

On the N. coast soon appear the villages of Sharkiöi (once Peristasis) and Hiraklitsa (Heraklea); then the town of Rodosto (Turk. Tekirdagh), and farther on, Eregli, the ancient Perinthos.

To the S. we sight the islet of Kalolimni (689 ft.; Besbikos); far beyond it are the Gulf of Mudania (or Gemlek) and the town of Brussa, at the foot of the Bithynian Olympos (8200 ft.), which is generally capped with snow.

Off the beautiful Gulf of Ismid (Nikomedeia), to the N.E., lie the Princes Islands (Iles des Princes; comp. Map, p. 557), the ancient Demonnesoi (Turk. Kizil Adalar, ‘red islands’, so called from the colour of their ferruginous rocks).

Prinkipo, the ancient Pityusa (‘rich in pines’), the largest and most populous of these islands, attracts many excursionists from Constantinople in fine weather (local steamers, see p. 538). On the N. side of the island lies its capital, Prinkipo (Hôt. Giacomo, déj. 5, D. 6 fr.; Hôt. Impérial, and others). Pleasant drive thence (2½ hrs. there and back; 1–2 mejidiehs; or ride, ½–1 mej.) to the highest hill on the S. side of the island, crowned with the old Monastery of St. George (656 ft.; *View).

On its way from Constantinople to Prinkipo the steamer first touches at Proti (377 ft.). To the right we see the small island of Oxia, the most westerly of the group, to which in 1910 the famous street-dogs of Constantinople were transported, and Plati (‘the flat’), also called ‘Bulwer’s Island’ after an English Ambassador who here built two now ruined castles (19th cent.) in the style of Windsor. The steamer calls also at Antigoni (542 ft.), and Chalki (446 ft.; ‘ore-island’), with a Greek commercial school and a seminary for priests.

On the flat European shore, beyond the village of Küchük Chekmekjeh on the lagoon of that name, we sight the Russian war-monument with its gleaming tower, a landmark of Constantinople, rising above the cape of San Stefano (lighthouse). A little later appears Stambul. Next, beyond the lighthouse (Phare), is seen the white mosque of Ahmed and the yellow Aya Sophia.

On the Asiatic coast, on the promontory which runs out into the beautiful Bay of Moda, there is situated, in the ancient Bithynia, Fanar Burnu or Fener Bagcheh (lighthouse). Beyond, it is Kadikiöi (Kadi Keuï), a modern suburb of Constantinople, on the site of Kalchedon or Chalcedon. Farther on are the little harbour of Haidar Pasha (p. 557), the station of the Anatolian railway, and, at the S. end of Scutari (p. 556), the military school of medicine, the large Selimieh Barracks, and the Selimieh Mosque.

The steamer now rounds the Seraglio Point and enters the Bosporus (p. 557); it passes the Golden Horn, the harbour of Constantinople, and the New Bridge, and casts anchor at the Galata Quay below Pera. Landing, see below.

The Direct Steamers from Athens to Constantinople steer from the Straits of Doro (p. 529) to the N.N.E. for Tenedos (p. 533). In clear weather we descry to the right the distant Chios (p. 492) and Psara (p. 529), and to the left Skyros (2608 ft.), the S.E. island of the N. Sporades. On the right we next sight Mytilini (p. 533), and on the left Hagiostrati (971 ft.; Halonnesos). From Tenedos to Constantinople, see p. 533.

81. Constantinople.^[9]

Arrival by Sea. The French, German, and Rumanian (RR. 76, 82) steamers are berthed at the Galata Quay (Pl. H, I, 4), near the Dogana or Douane. Passengers of the French and German steamers have to pay pier-dues (1st class 5½, 2nd cl. 3½ s. pias). The Austrian, Italian, and Egyptian steamers also, on their arrival from the Black Sea, are mostly moored at the quay, but when coming from the S. they usually anchor in front of it, at the entrance of the Golden Horn (landing or embarkation, with baggage, 2 fr. or 10 pias.). The porters (hamáls, mostly Kurds) of the Harbour Co. receive 5 pias. and a gratuity of 1 pias. for conveying baggage from the quay to the hotels. All trouble with boatmen and porters is avoided by applying at once to the guides (dragomans) or hotel-agents.

Baggage and passports (p. xvii) are examined in the ‘Salon’ or Bureau des Passeports. The importation of weapons and ammunition and of tobacco and cigarettes is prohibited. Cigars, however, if declared, are admitted at an ad valorem duty of 75 per cent. On showing their passports passengers must state where they intend to reside; the passports are then stamped and returned to them. On leaving the country passports are again examined (visés by consul, p. 539); so also is luggage, to prevent exportation of antiquities.

On leaving the Salon each passenger has to pay the Harbour Co. 5 pias. in gold, also 1 pias. for each trunk and ½ pias. for each piece of hand-luggage.

The Station (Pl. H, 5; Buffet, on the side for departure; Rail. Restaurant opposite) of the Oriental Railway is at Stambul, 7 min. to the S.E. of the New Bridge (p. 545).—The clock, which gives E. European time, is an hour in advance of mid-European time. As the officials understand French, the services of the hotel-agents may be dispensed with.—Small articles of luggage are examined at the frontier-station Mustapha Pasha, registered luggage in the hall of arrival, and passports at the exit.—Porter to hotel 11 pias.—Cab from station to hotel 20–25 pias., incl. bridge-toll of 2½ pias. (from quay to hotel 10 pias.; tariff, see p. 538).

Hotels (all at Pera; charges should be agreed upon beforehand). Pera Palace Hotel (Pl. a; H, 3), near the public gardens of the Petits Champs (p. 544), R. 10 fr. 10 c.–20 fr., B. 2 fr. 10, déj. 5 fr. 25, D. 6 fr. 30, pens. 20 fr. 60–30 fr. 60 c. (charges 3–4 fr. lower from 15th June to 1st Sept.); Hôt. Tokatlian, Grande Rue de Péra 180, recently rebuilt, with restaurant and café (see below), R. from 6½, B, 1½, déj. 4½, D. 5½, pens. from 15 fr., well spoken of.—Hôt. Bristol, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 14 fr. (with dépendance Gr.-Hôt. Missiri, Grande Rue de Péra 128, plain); Hôt. de Londres (Pl. b; H, 2), also opposite Petits Champs, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 12½ fr.; Hôt. Berliner Hof (Royal & d’Angleterre; Pl. c, H, 2), near the garden of the British Embassy, R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 15 (out of season, 12) fr.; Hôt. Continental, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 3), R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–20 fr.; Hôt. Krœcker (Pl. e; H, 3), Rue Kabristan 36–40, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3½, pens. 9–16 fr.

Second Class: Khedivial Palace Hotel (Pl. f; H, 3), Grande Rue de Péra, R. 4–6, pens. 10–12 fr.; Hôt. Grande Bretagne, Rue Vénédik, R. 2–5, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3, pens. 6–10 fr.; Hôt. St. Pétersbourg, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), rooms only (from 2 fr.); Constantinople Palace Hotel, Grande Rue de Péra (Pl. H, 2), R. 3–5, B. 1–1½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 7–12 fr.; Hôt. Paulick, same street, adjoining the Russian Embassy (Pl. H, 3), R. 2¼–6, unpretending; Hôt. Rubin, R. from 2 fr.

Restaurants (European cuisine; à la carte). At Pera. *Tokatlian, at the hotel of that name (see above); Janni (Brasserie Viennoise), Grande Rue de Péra 396; Nicoli (Brass. Suisse), same street, No. 380; Restaurant Lebon, same street, No. 434; Restaurant Anzière, near the Baluk Bazaar (p. 545), D. 15 pias., well spoken of; restaurants in summer in the gardens of the Petits Champs, in winter in the winter-theatre (concerts).—At Galata. Restaurant ‘D.D.’, dinner only, well spoken of.—At Stambul. Railway Restaurant (see above), with garden, well spoken of; Tokatlian, in the Great Bazaar.

Cafés. Tokatlian and Lebon, see above; also in the Public Grounds at Pera, in the Taxim Park (Pl. I, 1), and others in the Grande Rue de Péra.—There are Turkish Cafés, well shaded, opposite the Aya Sophia and in the small public garden there (Pl. H, 7); also at the piers of the local steamers, etc.; small cup of coffee 20 paras. Those at Galata should be avoided.—Confectioners. Tokatlian, Lebon, see p. 537; Mulassier, Grande Rue de Péra, cor. of Rue de Pologne.

Cabs (araba). It is best to fix the fare beforehand according to the tariff. Drive of ¼ hr. 5, of 25 min. 7½, and of 40 min. 10 pias.; 1 hr. 15, each addit. hr. 10 pias.; two hours after sunset charges are raised by one-quarter and from midnight till sunrise by one-third; for the whole day 80 pias.—Horses (at, begir) at Top Haneh, near the Yedikuleh station, etc.; 5–10 pias. per hour, according to bargain (and small gratuity to horse-boy).

Tramways (comp. Plan; electric lines under construction). Most of the cars have two classes and a compartment for Turkish women. Fare 30–60 or 40–80 paras according to class (printed on the tickets in French). The passenger states his destination or names the station nearest to it.—1. Galata (at lower end of Yüksek Kaldirim, Pl. H, 4) to Galata Seraï (Pl. H, 2; 40 or 60 paras), Taxim (Pl. I, 2), and Shishli (to the N. of Pl. I, 1).—2. Asab Kapu (Pl. G, 3; at the Old Bridge) to Galata (Pl. H, 4), Top Haneh (Pl. I, 3), Kabatash (Pl. K, 2), Dolma Bagcheh, Beshiktash, and Ortakiöi (p. 558).—3. Emin Önu (Pl. H, 5; at S. end of New Bridge) to Sirkeji (rail. stat.), So-uk Cheshmeh, Kapu (Museum), Aya Sophia (Pl. H, 7), Chemberli Tash (Colonne Brûlée; Pl. G, 6), Sultan Bayazid (Pl. G, 6), Ak Seraï (Pl. D, E, 6; change cars), and Top Kapu (Pl. B, 4).—4. Ak Seraï (Pl. D, E, 6) to Yedikuleh (Pl. A, 9).

Tunnel Railway, the chief means of communication between the New Bridge and Pera; lower station (Pl. H, 4) at Galata, Rue Yéni Djami; upper station (Pl. H, 3), in the Place du Tunnel at Pera. Cars every 5 min.; 30 or 20 paras; book of 10 tickets, 2nd cl., 5 pias.

Local Steamers (comp. inset maps on the Plan; time-tables in the newspapers; ply till sunset). a. On the Golden Horn, to Eyúb, from the pier (Pl. H, 4) to the W. of the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ¼ hr. till sunset; tickets (to Eyúb 30 paras; 20 paras more for cushioned seat) on the pier. Mid-stations, see p. 555. In spring and summer smaller steamers ply between Eyúb and Kiathaneh (Sweet Waters, p. 556; 40 paras).—b. On the Bosporus, from the pier (Pl. H, 5) at the S. end of the New Bridge, to the E., where tickets are obtained (to Büyükdereh in 1½ hr.; fare 160 or 100 paras, plus a tax of 10 paras). There are three lines: European coast, Asiatic coast, and Zigzag, recognizable by green, or red, or red and green flags.—c. To Scutari, from the third pier to the left (E.; Pl. H, 4), coming from the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ½ hr.; fare 50 or 30 paras; to Prinkipo (p. 535), from the first pier to the left, five or six times daily in summer, in 2 hrs.; fare 160 or 100 paras.—d. On the Sea of Marmora (no piers), from the Stambul Quay (Pl. H, 5) vià Kum Kapu (Pl. G, 7), Yeni Kapu (Pl. E, 8), and Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) to the suburbs of Makrikiöi and San Stefano (p. 535).

Boats (no tariff; bargain necessary). To or from steamers, see p. 537; otherwise 10 pias. per hour. Ferry, by one of the long flat-bottomed Caïques, with one rower, to Stambul 1–2 pias., to Eyúb or Scutari, about 10 pias., with two rowers 15 pias.; per hour 15 pias.

Post Offices. British (Pl. H, 4); Turkish International, Rue Voïvode in Galata (Pl. H, 4), Grande Rue de Péra, opposite the Galata Seraï, near the Yeni Valideh Jami (Pl. H, 5) in Stambul, and at the railway-station. France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Russia also have their own post-offices. French is generally understood. Postage within Turkey ½–2 pias. for 10 grammes, post-card 20 paras; foreign letters 1 pias. per 20 grammes.

Telegraph Offices. The Turkish International Post Offices (see above) send telegrams to foreign countries as well as within Turkey. Eastern Telegraph Co., at the Turkish post-office, Grande Rue de Péra (see above), for foreign parts (to Great Britain each word 66 c.).

Steamboat Agents (offices mostly behind the custom-house at Galata; comp. Pl. H, 4). Messageries Maritimes, Mumhaneh Street; N. Paquet & Co., T. Reboul; Società Nazionale, Barboro, Cité Française: North German Lloyd, Mewes, Mumhaneh Street, Charab Iskelessi 7–9; German Levant Line, Mehemed Ali Pasha-Han; Austrian Lloyd, Mumhaneh Street; Khedivial Mail, Silley, Galata Quay, Meimanetli Han; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Petcheneff, Kiretsh Kapu; Rumanian State Maritime Service, Galata Quay.—Tourist Agents, Thos. Cook & Son, Rue Kabristan 12, opposite Pera Palace Hotel.

Guides. The International Courier’s and Guides Office, near the Pera Palace Hotel (p. 537), provides reliable guides (10 fr. per day for Constantinople and its environs, including the Bosporus).

Embassies and Consulates. Great Britain: Ambassador, Right Hon. Sir G. A. Lowther (office, Pl. H, 2; in summer at Therapia). Consul-General, H. Eyres (office, Pl. H, 4); consul, A. T. Waugh; vice-consul, W. S. Edmonds.—United States: Ambassador, O. S. Straus (office, Pl. I, 2). Consul-General, vacat; vice-consul, O. S. Heizer.

Physicians. English, German, and others (addresses at the hotels or at the chemists’).—Chemists. In the Grande Rue de Péra, Ehrlich, No. 579; Canzuch & Giannetti, No. 247; Matkowitsch, No. 420; Della Sudda, No. 298; Liechtenstein, Helvaji Street, Galata.

Baths at the hotels.—Addresses of Turkish Baths may be obtained at the hotels.—Sea Baths at the European places on the Bosporus.

Banks. Banque Ottomane, Rue Voïvode, Galata, and Grande Rue de Péra 407, with exchange offices; Crédit Lyonnais, near the New Bridge, Galata; also German, German Orient, Vienna, and others.—Money Changers (sarráf) abound in the Rue Karakeuï (Pl. H, 4; p. 543), Grande Rue de Péra, etc.

Booksellers. Economic Book Store, Passage du Tunnel; O. Keil, No. 457, and S. H. Weiss, No. 481 Grande Rue de Péra.—Newspapers (¼ pias.). Levant Herald, with Engl. and Fr. editions; Le Stamboul, Moniteur Oriental, French; Osmanische Lloyd, German and French. All have steamboat and other time-tables and notices.

Photographs & Picture Post Cards. All in Grande Rue de Péra, Fruchtermann, No. 335; Keil, No. 457; Sébah & Joaillier, No. 439; Berggren, No. 414 (line views of the city and environs). Photographic materials sold by Caracache Frères, Nos. 675 and 398, and Weinberg, No. 467.

Theatre in the grounds of the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2).—A Band plays on summer evenings in the same grounds and in the Taxim Park (Pl. I, 1); adm. 1–2 pias.

Churches. Church of England, at the chapel of the British Embassy (Pl. H, 2), during summer at Therapia (see p. 559); Christ Church (Pl. H, 3), in the Rue Yazidji; Presbyterian Church, in the chapel of the Dutch Legation, Rue des Postes, near the Grande Rue (Pl. H, 3).

Sights. Antiquities, Collection of, see New Museum.

Bazaar, Great (p. 551), best visited early; closed 1 hr. before sunset; Frid., Sat., and Sun. are respectively Moslem, Jewish, and Christian holidays. Inexperienced travellers may bring a guide or the dragoman of their hotel (but see p. xxvi). Large purchases may be sent home by a goods-agent.

Beylerbey Seraï (p. 558), adm. as in the case of the Seraglio.

Chinili Kiosque (p. 547), see under New Museum.

Egyptian Bazaar (Missir Charshi; p. 545), as the Great Bazaar.

Galata Tower (p. 543), all day, 5 pias. (custodian with light, 2 pias.).

Mosques (Turk. Jami; very small, mesjid), all open to Christians till sunset; during Ramadan, the Moslem month of fasting, they are gorgeously lighted and then open in the evening also (comp. p. 549). At the inner door the sacristan provides overshoes, or visitors may take off their own. Hats also are removed (comp. p. xxv). There is no charge for admission but it is usual to give the sacristan a fee of 5 pias. per person (less for a party) for the loan of overshoes.—The Tomb Chapels (Turk, türbeh) are open on similar conditions; fee 1–5 pias., according to their importance.

Museum, Janissaries’ (p. 550), all day, 3 pias.—Military Museum, in the Church of Irene (p. 548), Sun., Tues., & Thurs. 10–4.—New Museum (p. 546), daily except Frid., 9–5, in winter 10–3, adm. 5 pias.; tickets available for the Chinili Kiosque also.

Seraglio Palace (p. 548). The consulates, to which application should be made a few days beforehand, arrange for visits to the Treasury and part of the old Seraglio on Sun & Tues. (small fee).

Türbeh, see under Mosques.

Two Days (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, *Galata Tower (p. 543), Yeni Valideh Jami (p. 545), *New Museum (p. 546), Chinili Kiosque (p. 547); afternoon, trip on the *Bosporus (p. 557), or to Scutari (p. 556); summer evening in the Gardens of the Petits Champs (p. 544) or the Taxim Park (p. 544).—2nd. Forenoon, *Aya Sophia (p. 548), At Meïdán (p. 549), *Great Bazaar (p. 551), *Suleiman Mosque (p. 552); afternoon, Land-Wall (p. 553); Eyúb (pp. 555, 556); Serasker Tower (p. 551).—Visitors should be on their guard against pickpockets, especially in Galata and Pera.

Constantinople, Turk. Stambul or Stamboul, Ital. Costantinopoli, Slav. Tsarigrad (emperor’s town), capital of the Turkish empire and residence of the Sultan (since 1909 Mohammed V., b. 1844; successor of Abdul Hamid, p. 544), is the seat of the government (the ‘Sublime Porte’), and also of the Sheikh ul-Islam, of the patriarchs of the Greek and Armenian churches, and of a papal legate. It lies on the Sea of Marmora, at the mouth of the Bosporus, in 41° N. lat. and 28° 58′ E. longitude.

The City consists of several distinct quarters. Stambul, in the narrower sense, forms a nearly equilateral triangle between the Golden Horn (p. 555) and the Sea of Marmora; to the N.E., on the slopes of the opposite bank of the Golden Horn and on the adjacent shore of the Bosporus, lie the Frank quarters of Galata and Pera and their suburbs; and to the E., on the gently sloping Asiatic shore of the Bosporus, lies the Turkish town of Scutari with its suburbs. According to recent estimates Constantinople contains 1,125,000 inhab. (or, without the Asiatic quarters, 943,000), incl. about 500,000 Turks, more than 200,000 Greeks, 180,000 Armenians, 65,000 Jews, mostly Spanish (see p. 542), and 70,000 Europeans. The foreign residents are said to number 130,000.

The Situation of Constantinople has justly won the admiration of all ages. The vast city of Stambul curving over the slopes between the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn, the suburbs on the Bosporus, its green banks studded with villages, palaces, and mosques, the Golden Horn with its busy bridges and its countless vessels, all combine to form a picture of matchless beauty.

The Climate of Constantinople, which lies in the same latitude as Naples (p. 137), is unsettled and comparatively cool. During the greater part of the year the city is exposed to N.E. winds from the Siberian steppes, which sweep through the Bosporus and in winter occasionally bring snow. The best season for a visit is autumn (end of Sept. to beginning of Nov.). The summer, however, is usually fine and not unbearably hot, the coolest places being those on the Bosporus, a little to the N., which are sheltered from the due S. winds (as Therapia, Büyükdereh, etc.). The mean temperature of the year is 57½° Fahr., that of the hottest month (Aug.) 74°, and that of the coldest (Feb.) 41°. The rainfall averages 28¾ in.

History. Attracted by the striking advantages of the site, at the junction of two great portions of the globe and on the great water highway between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, the Dorians founded the colony of Byzantium, about 660 B.C., on the promontory (Seraglio Point, p. 536) commanding the entrance to the Bosporus. This colony, however, like the towns on the coast of Asia Minor, was unable to withstand the attacks of the Persians; when Darius I. crossed the Bosporus in his campaign against the Scythians the Byzantines were compelled to supply him with ships; and their town was afterwards destroyed by the Persians for taking part in the Ionian revolt. The long but somewhat weak alliance of Byzantium with Athens was succeeded by closer bonds when the town was threatened by Philip of Macedonia. Being hard pressed by Phokion Philip was compelled to raise the siege of the town (340–339). Under Alexander the Great and his successors Byzantium maintained its autonomy, but in 278 it suffered seriously from an attack by the Gauls (‘Galatians’) settled in Thrace.

In the wars against Philip III. of Macedonia Byzantium became the natural ally of Rome, and this alliance continued to subsist under the earlier Roman emperors. In 193–6 Septimius Severus besieged the town to punish it for siding with the rival emperor Pescennius Niger, and deprived it of its liberties and privileges; but he afterwards rebuilt the walls, regarding it as an important bulwark of the empire. In 269 Emp. Claudius II. here repelled the attacks of the Goths when they attempted to force their way south from the Danube.

Having become master of the whole empire by the capture of Byzantium in 324 Emp. Constantine chose it as his new capital on account of its admirable situation on the threshold of the East. In 330 it was officially styled New Rome, but soon became generally known as Constantinopolis. Enclosed by Constantine’s new walls it now extended to the W. to the region of the present Old Bridge (Pl. F, 4) and of Psamatia (Pl. B, C, 8). The Romans retained the old division of the city into fourteen regions, and they even found in it their seven hills again. The environs as far as the 7th milestone (hebdomon), called the exokionion, were assigned to the seven milliarii of the Gothic body-guard. Under Arcadius, in 395, Constantinople became the capital of the new E. Roman empire. The rapid increase of the population and the necessity of defending it against the attacks of the Huns and Goths induced Anthemius, regent during the minority of Theodosius II. (408–50), to build the new Theodosian town-walls, ½–1¼ M. to the W. of those of Constantine. In 439 sea-walls along the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn were added, and after 447, in consequence of an attack by Attila and to repair the damage done by an earthquake, the land-walls were restored and strengthened.

Byzantium attained the zenith of its prosperity under Justinian (527–65). He rebuilt the city, after its almost entire destruction in 532 during the rebellion of the circus parties (Nika revolt), in a far grander style, and on the site of Constantine’s basilica founded the famous church of St. Sophia. In the form of Byzantine civilization antique culture survived until the middle ages, although finally in a merely torpid state. This Byzantine development, with its Greek language and independent Oriental church under the patriarchal government at Constantinople, was an outcome of the late Greek (‘Hellenistic’) and Roman culture.

After the time of Justinian the empire was shaken to its foundations by intestine disorders and foreign wars. The attacks of the Avars and Persians (627) were succeeded by the irruption of the Arabs under the Omaiyades (p. 485), who in 673–8 and 717–8 besieged Constantinople by sea and by land. About the same time the Bulgarians founded an independent kingdom in the Balkan peninsula, and they too (in 813 and 924) attacked the city. Russian fleets forced their way into the Sea of Marmora in 860 and 1048. Economically, too, Constantinople was on the wane; from the 11th cent. onwards the Seljuks were gaining ground in Asia Minor, and the Italian maritime cities were rapidly acquiring wealth and power.

The quarrels of aspirants to the throne during the Angelos dynasty led in 1204 to the capture of Constantinople by the Crusaders and to the foundation of a new western or ‘Latin’ empire. In 1261 the Greek emperor Michael Palaeologos, who resided at Nikæa, succeeded in driving the Franks out of Constantinople with the aid of the Genoese, to whom he presented Galata (see below) as a reward. But the Turkish peril came ever nearer. The Osmans, having conquered Asia Minor in the 13th cent., crossed the Dardanelles (comp. p. 534) under Orkhân in 1357, and under Murad I., in 1361, made Adrianople the residence of the sultans instead of Brussa. They were weakened for a time by the attacks of Timur (p. 485), but in 1411 and 1422 they proceeded to besiege Constantinople.

After a heroic defence by Constantine XI. Palaeologos, the last Greek emperor, the city was at length captured in 1453 by Mohammed II. (Mehemed el-Fatih, ‘the conqueror’), and under the name of Stambul became the capital of the Osmans. Its fortunes were now at their lowest ebb; it was almost entirely depopulated and reduced to ruins, as had been its fate when captured by the Crusaders in 1204. But soon Turkish settlers from all quarters thronged to the new capital, and many Christians also, their lives and religion being safeguarded, while numerous Jews banished from Spain in 1492 found a new home here and have retained their old language and characteristics ever since. The building enterprise of the Turkish sultans, especially of Selim I. (1512–20), the conqueror of Syria, Mesopotamia, and Egypt, and of Suleiman the Great (1520–66), as well as of the Turkish magnates, was directed exclusively to public edifices. They erected mosques (p. 539) on the model of the earlier church of the Apostles and of the Aya Sophia (or church of St. Sophia), tomb-chapels (p. 539), bazaars and warehouses (han), and baths and fountains (sebil, with running water; cheshmeh, draw-well). In the midst of these sumptuous buildings lay a labyrinth of crooked streets and lanes, the brightly painted timber houses with their grated balconies (kafehs) being often of one story only, while here and there this strange sea of houses was relieved by gardens and burial-grounds.

To some extent, notwithstanding destructive fires (as in 1865 and 1908) and earthquakes (the last in 1894), the old Oriental characteristics of the city still survive in the old town of Stambul, the chief seat of the Oriental merchants and the petty traders, and also at Scutari (p. 556). Galata, on the other hand, the centre of the European trade, is much like an Italian seaport-town. Above it, to the N., lies Pera, a suburb which sprang up in the 19th cent., and which, since a great fire in 1870, has been almost entirely rebuilt in quite European fashion.

Of Books on Constantinople may be mentioned: Grosvenor, Constantinople (2 vols., London, 1895); W. H. Hutton, Constantinople in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (London, 1900); and Van Millingen, Byzantine Constantinople, The Walls, etc. (London, 1899).

a. Galata and Pera.

Galata, the oldest suburb of Constantinople, rises on the slope of a plateau on the N. side of the entrance to the Golden Horn (p. 555), corresponding with the 13th region of the city of Constantine (p. 541). In the middle ages it was usually called Peira. Its inhabitants are chiefly Greeks and Armenians. In 1304 the Genoese (see above) enclosed it with a wall, and down to 1453 held an almost independent position under their own rulers (podestà). The wall was often rebuilt and was at last removed (1864).

Behind the Galata Quay (Pl. H, I, 4), constructed in 1879–95, lies a labyrinth of narrow and dirty streets, extending to the other side of the Grand Rue de Galata (p. 545), the chief thoroughfare to the N.E. suburbs. At the S.W. end of the latter are the still busier Rue de Karakeuï (Pl. H, 4), beside the New Bridge (p. 545), and the Place Karakeuï. where the Exchange rises on the left.

In the old-fashioned W. quarter of Galata are the ruinous Palace of the Podestà (in the Pershembeh Bazaar, Pl. H, 4) and the Arab Jami (Pl. G, 4), the oldest mosque in the city, which was founded at the time of the Arab attacks (717). Near it is the Yanik Kapu, an old Genoese gateway. A little farther on, near the Old Bridge (p. 552), is the Asab Kapu Jami (Pl. G, 3, 4), erected by Sinán (p. 552), adjoining which is a beautiful *Sebíl (p. 542), with gilded railings and far projecting timber roof (18th cent.).

From the Old Bridge Pera is reached by the broad Rue Iskander (Pl. G, 3), and from the New Bridge by the steep and dirty Yüksek Kaldirim (Pl. H, 3, 4), partly in steps (and also by the tunnel or by tramway No. 1; p. 538).

On the boundary between Galata and Pera, a little to the W. of the N. end of the Yüksek Kaldirim, rises the Galata Tower (Pl. H, 3; 148 ft. high), now entirely modernized, the ascent of which (p. 539) forms the best introduction to a walk through the city. It marks the spot where the new land-walls on the E. and W. sides of Galata met in 1348. We mount 143 steps to the room of the fire-watchmen, and 72 more to the three upper stories.

The *Panorama from the fourteen windows of the watchmen’s room embraces Galata with the buildings on the quay; to the N.E. is the Jihangir Mosque (p. 544); opposite, on the Asiatic coast, to the extreme left is the palace of Beylerbey (p. 558); farther to the S. is Scutari, dominated by the Great and Little Bulgurlu (p. 557). To the S.E. lie the Princes Islands (p. 535); to the S., above the S. coast of the Sea of Marmora, rises the Bithynian Olympos (p. 535). With the aid of the Plan of the city we may easily locate the chief buildings of Stambul, from the Aya Sophia and the Ahmed Mosque with its six minarets, to the S., round to the Great Bazaar with its numerous little domes, to the Place d’Armes (Séraskier-Kapou), with the great tower, the barracks, and the Suleiman Mosque, to the Mihrimah Mosque, and to the Byzantine city-wall at the extreme N. end of Stambul. At our feet lies the Golden Horn, with the two bridges and the naval harbour. In the distance, to the N.W., peeps the mosque of Eyúb (see inset map in Plan of city).

The modern streets of Pera, the European quarter, run to the N.W. from the Galata Tower, between old Turkish cemeteries and large gardens, across the whole hill. The embassies to the Sublime Porte, the European churches, schools, hospitals, and shops also are situated here.

The Grande Rue de Péra (Pl. H, I, 3, 2), the continuation of Yüksek Kaldirim, passes the Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes (Tekkeh; Pl. H, 3), whose strange performances may be witnessed on Fridays (except during Ramadan), usually from 7.30 to 8.30 Turkish time (4½–3½ hrs. before sunset; adm. 5 pias.).

We may now cross the Place du Tunnel, past the upper station of the tunnel railway (Pl. H, 3; p. 538), and follow Rue Kabristan (or one of the narrow streets to the left, farther to the N., such as the Rue Vénédik) to the—

Public Grounds of tho Petits Champs (Pl. H, 3, 2), near the British Embassy (Pl. H, 2) and the chief hotels (p. 537). They afford a beautiful view of Stambul and the Golden Horn, and are a favourite resort in the afternoon and evening (concerts, see p. 539).

We return, to the N.E., by Rue Tepé Bachi to the Grande Rue de Péra, whence the Rue Yéni Teharchi leads to the S.E., past the Galata Seraï (Pl. H, 2; Imper. Lyceum), to Top Haneh.

Our street ends, at the N.W. end of Pera, at the Place du Taxim (Pl. 1, 2). Here on the right, adjoining the Kishla Jaddesí, are the Artillery Barracks, one of the chief scenes of conflict on 25th April 1909 when the Young Turks fought their way into the city, and the *Taxim Park (Pl. I, 1; band, see p. 539), and on the left a large esplanade.