1. From England viâ Oporto and Lisbon to Gibraltar or Tangier (Marseilles and Genoa).

1. To Gibraltar Direct. The chief Steamboat Lines (offices, comp. pp. xviii-xx) are the Peninsular & Oriental Co., once weekly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Port Said, etc.; the Orient Royal Line, fortnightly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the North German Lloyd, fortnightly from Southampton to Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the Anchor Line almost weekly from Liverpool or Glasgow for Gibraltar, Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Palermo, Port Said, etc.; fares to Gibraltar in all these from 12l. 2s. downwards. Less expensive are the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.’s steamers, fortnightly from London; and from Liverpool, the Moss Line fortnightly and the Papayanni Line occasionally; fares in all these range from 6l. to 8l.

2. Coasting Steamers. Hall Line, weekly from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Málaga, and Cadiz; the Pacific Line, fortnightly from Liverpool to La Rochelle-Pallice (for Bordeaux), Corunna, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and St. Vincent (Cape Verde), and thence to S. America (passengers for the Mediterranean requiring of course to tranship at Lisbon or St. Vincent); the Nederland Royal Mail Steamers, fortnightly from Southampton for the Mediterranean and Batavia, touch at Lisbon, and so also those of the Rotterdam Lloyd, fortnightly from Southampton, for Tangier, the Mediterranean, and Batavia; Yeoward Bros. Line, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon; Booth Line, thrice monthly from Liverpool to Havre, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), etc.; Ellerman Line, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon and Oporto; the steamers of the German East African Line, once every three weeks from Southampton, call at Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, and Naples, on their way to Port Said; the Atlantic liners of the Hamburg-American and Hamburg & South American Cos., calling several times monthly at Southampton, also touch occasionally at Lisbon; Royal Holland Lloyd, monthly from Dover to Boulogne, Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, etc.; the vessels of the Compañía Trasatlántica, monthly from Liverpool, call at Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, Cadiz, Cartagena, Valencia, Barcelona, and Genoa, on their voyages to Colombo and Manila.

3. Excursion Steamers. Many of the above companies and others besides organize Mediterranean cruises and circular tours at very reasonable fares, whereby everything is made easy and comfortable; but the more enterprising and independent traveller will greatly prefer to piece his tour together for himself, combining the various routes to suit his own convenience, and often lingering for days in profoundly impressive historic places or amid glorious scenery, where the hurriedly conducted tourist can spend a few hours only. Among the excursion steamers may be mentioned the ‘Vectis’ of the Peninsular & Oriental Co., which offers a trip of 10 days from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Tangier, Málaga, and Marseilles for 10–15 guineas, and another, of 21 days, from Marseilles to Palermo, Constantinople, the Piræus, Naples, and Marseilles, for 21–40 gs. Similar cruises are offered by the Cunard Line, starting from Liverpool for the Mediterranean and Adriatic, the Orient Royal Line from London (20 days; fares from 18 gs.), and by ‘Continental Travel’ (5 Endsleigh Gardens, London), some of the last-named (either from Southampton or from Marseilles) extending to Egypt and the Holy Land, and lasting from 13 to 34 days (fares 10–26 gs.).—The voyage from London to Lisbon (about 1170 M.) usually takes 3½ days, and thence to Gibraltar (about 350 M.) one day more; but some of the steamers take longer, while much of course depends on the number of ports called at and on the length of stay made at each. For details as to the sailings, which, as well as fares, are liable to frequent alteration, application should be made to the various companies, or to Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son (Ludgate Circus, London, E.C.) or other tourist-agencies.

To Gibraltar Direct. As indicated at p. 1, most of the great steamers bound for Port Said, India, Australia, and other distant parts steer for Gibraltar direct.

Of the Coasting Steamers to Gibraltar some touch at Lisbon only, others at Leixões (or Oporto) and Lisbon, and others again at various additional stations. All the important stations are here mentioned in their order.

The Hamburg-American steamers call at Boulogne (see Baedeker’s N. France) to take up passengers for Lisbon and America. Most of the vessels pass the Cap de la Hague, a little to the N.W. of Cherbourg, and the Channel Islands, which belong to Great Britain. The first of these is Alderney (Fr. Aurigny); next comes the islet of Burhou; beyond it, behind the dangerous rocks called the Casquets, marked by a triple flashing light, lies Guernsey (‘green island’), and farther away, to the left, is Jersey. The coast of Brittany or Bretagne is visible in clear weather only.

All the steamers leave the English Channel near Ushant (Ouessant; lighthouse), an island near the coast of Brittany, and steer to the S.S.W. across the Bay of Biscay (Viscaya), where, even in fine weather, the heavy swell of the open Atlantic is distinctly felt. The steamers of the Pacific Line and of the Rotterdam Lloyd touch at La Pallice, 3 M. from La Rochelle. From La Rochelle, an interesting historic town, by railway to (145 M.) Bordeaux, see Baedeker’s Southern France. The Bay of Biscay is bounded on the S. by the N. coast of Spain, with which the W. coast of France forms a right angle. In this angle, far to the E. of the steamer’s course, lie Bayonne and the famous health resort of Biarritz. To the S.W. of the latter is (8 M.) St. Jean de Luz, and 8 M. farther is Hendaye, on the Spanish frontier (see Baedeker’s S. France).

In Spain, 12 M. to the W. of the frontier, is situated San Sebastián, a strikingly picturesque town and fashionable seaside resort; 71½ M. farther to the W. lies Bilbao, famed for its iron and steel, 74 M. beyond which is Santandér, with its important harbour. About 280 M. farther to the W. are the N.W. headlands of Spain which mark the S.W. end of the Bay of Biscay.

The steamers of the Pacific Line, the Compañía Trasatlántica, and some others next call at Corunna, Span. La Coruña, a picturesque and important seaport famed in history, and the chief arsenal of N. Spain (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal; debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Time permitting, passengers may spend an hour or two on shore in walking through the new town (Pescadería) and the loftily situated old town (Ciudad Vieja), and in ascending to the Torre de Hércules (185 ft.; lighthouse), about 1 M. to the N. of the town, for the sake of the splendid view it affords. Some 35 M. to the W. of Corunna lie the small Sisargas Islands, beyond which all the vessels steer to the S., past Cabo Villano (lighthouse), Cabo Toriñana (lighthouse), and Cape Finisterre. To the E., in clear weather, we may descry the long outlines of the Galician mountain-range (‘sierra’). Beyond Cape Finisterre we pass a number of far-penetrating inlets (rias) which abound on the W. coast of Galicia. Many steamers touch also at Vigo, a seaport and sea-bathing place most picturesquely situated on the Ria de Vigo, the southmost inlet of Galicia, which runs 19 M. inland (debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Fine view near the lofty Castillo del Castro, to the S. of the town. Some eight or nine hours’ steaming carries us from Vigo, past the mouth of the Minho, the boundary between Spain and Portugal, to—

Leixões (pron. layshŏengsh; Brit. vice-consul, T. Coverley), the first Portuguese port, lying at the mouth of the little river Leça and forming the outer harbour of Oporto. About 2½ M. farther to the S. is the mouth of the Douro, usually entered by the smaller steamers bound for (3½ M.) Oporto itself.

Passengers who wish to go ashore at Leixões are conveyed by motor-boat or rowing-boat (about 225 reis or 1s., and half as much more for luggage) to the custom-house. Visitors with heavy luggage require to take the train (Leça station, near the Alfándega or custom-house) to Oporto (Estacão da Boa Vista, in the N. of the town); others may take the electric tramway (120 rs.), running from Leixões through the villa-suburb of Leça da Palmeira and the watering-places of Mattosinhos and São João da Foz, and up the right bank of the Douro, to Oporto (about 5 M., in 1 hr.). It goes as far as the Praça de Dom Pedro; but those in haste will alight in the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique (comp. p. 4).

Oporto.—Hotels. *Hot. do Porto, Hôt. de Paris, Hôt. de Francfort, etc.—Café-Restaurant International, Praça de Dom Pedro 14; Café Suisse, same square, No. 122; Café Marques, in the Crystal Palace.

Cab 500 rs., or about 2s. 3d., per hour.

Consuls. British, H. Grant.—United States Consular Agent, W. Stüve.—English Church (St. James’s), in the Campo Pequeno, to the N. of the Crystal Palace.

Oporto, or briefly Porto (‘harbour’) in Portuguese, is a busy commercial town of 172,400 inhab., the industrial capital of N. Portugal, and the place from which the famous wines of the upper valley of the Douro are chiefly exported. It lies 3½ M. from the sea, on the lofty right bank of the Douro, which has forced its passage here through the granite rock. The old town, with its quaint balconied houses, whose walls are often faced with coloured tiles, rises in terraces on the rocky slopes. The new town lies on a lofty plateau to the N., E., and W. of the old.

To the N. of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the Exchange (Bolsa), with its showy hall in the Moorish style. To the E. of it stands the Monument of Prince Henry the Navigator (p. 5). Adjoining the exchange is the Gothic church of São Francisco (entrance on the W. side), containing elaborate gilt wood-carving of the 17–18th centuries. Near the E. end of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the so-called English Factory House (Associação Britannica), an imposing building erected by an Englishman in 1785 and now used as a kind of club. The nearest tramway-car conveys us to the Praça de Dom Pedro, the business centre of the city, with an Equestrian Statue of Pedro IV. (p. 11) commemorating the granting of the constitution (1826). We ascend to the W. by the steep Calçada dos Clérigos to the church of Igreja dos Clérigos (427 ft.), the tower of which (246 ft.; ticket of admission 100 rs.) commands a panoramic view of the city, the river, and the coast. Adjoining the church on the W. is the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, with the beautiful grounds of the Jardim da Cordoaria. We next proceed by the electric tramway ‘Palacio’ to the Crystal Palace (adm. 20, 50 or 100 rs.) with its beautiful pleasure-grounds and superb view of the city, the river, and the sea. The same electric tramway, now entitled the ‘Praça de Dom Pedro’, returns viâ the Rua da Cedofeita to the Praça de Dom Pedro; we, however, change tramway-cars in the former and proceed by the tramway ‘Campanha’ viâ the Praça de Dom Pedro to the pretty Jardim de São Lázaro. From the S.W. angle of the garden the Rua das Fontainhas descends to the Passeio das Fontainhas with a view of the river, its S. bank, and both bridges. Following this promenade to the W. we reach the Largo da Policia with a fountain, where remains of the City Walls are to be seen. Hence the Rua de Saraiva de Carvalho leads us, before it descends in an abrupt curve to the left, into the vicinity of the Sé, or Cathedral, now almost entirely modernized. We may now traverse the upper roadway (toll 5 rs.; tramway-car if desired) of the magnificent Ponte de Dom Luiz Primeiro, spanning the Douro with a single iron arch of 564 ft. On the S. bank, on an eminence immediately to the left, lies the ruinous Augustine convent of Nossa Senhora da Serra do Pilar where Wellington effected his celebrated passage of the Douro against the French (1809). The view, especially from the dome of the church, is very fine. We make our way, at first by steps, then by a steep descent, to the lower roadway of the bridge. Returning to the N. bank of the Douro we follow the Rua Cima do Muro to the Praça da Ribeira which affords an insight into popular life and commands a striking retrospect of the Ponte de Dom Luiz. In the neighbourhood we may take the electric tramway ‘Leça’ which conveys us back to Leixões. In the reverse direction we regain the Praça de Dom Pedro.—Comp. Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal.

While the greater Ocean Steamers rarely sight the land, those bound for Lisbon skirt the flat Portuguese coast for some 150 M., from Oporto to Cabo Carvoeiro, steering past the Berlengas Islands (lighthouse), and then rounding the Serra de Cintra (p. 15), which ends in the Cabo da Roca (472 ft.), the westmost point of Europe, with its great lighthouse. Passing the Cabo Raso, we now steer due E. into the Bay of Cascaes, the ‘Riviera’ of Portugal, and enter the month of the Tagus (Tejo), where the lighthouses of Torre de São Julião and Torre de Bugio rise conspicuously. On the left we next observe the Torre de Belem and the extensive streets of Lisbon (see R. 2).

Leaving Lisbon, several of the great liners steer due W. across the Atlantic to America. Other vessels head to the S.W. for Madeira (p. 17), and others again due S., past the Cabo de Espichel, on their way to Gibraltar or Tangier. About 120 M. to the S. of Lisbon we are off *Cape St. Vincent (Cabo de São Vicente), the ancient Promontorium Sacrum. This huge rocky plateau, with its reddish-brown precipices rising sheer above the sea, presents an imposing appearance. Just beyond it are an old monastery and a lighthouse and then the Cabo Sagres. Between these capes we obtain a glimpse of the dreary and sunburnt interior of the country, with its few poor villages. Beyond the Cabo Sagres lies the little town of Sagres, founded by Henry the Navigator (1421) as headquarters for his voyages of exploration. Both before and after rounding these two capes we sometimes obtain a pleasant view of the Serra de Monchique (2963 ft.), and before leaving the coast of Algarve we may distinguish the little towns of Lagos and Albufeira and the Cabo de Santa Maria. Steering now due E., the smaller trading-vessels call at Huelva, a little beyond the Spanish frontier, noted as the shipping-port for the great Tharsis and Rio Tinto mines, and as the starting-point of Columbus (pp. 115, 64) for his voyage to America in 1492, while other vessels call at Cadiz (p. 58); all the larger steamers however proceed direct across the Bay of Cadiz to the S.E. to the Straits of Gibraltar, and either call at Gibraltar itself, or pass it on their eastward voyage without stopping; a certain number touch at Tangier (p. 98).

The *Straits of Gibraltar, anciently called Fretum Gaditanum or Herculeum (comp. Map, p. 49), from Gades (p. 58) or from the Pillars of Hercules (p. 54), date from the pliocene age, when the action of tides and waves forced a passage from the Atlantic into the great inland cavity of the Mediterranean. The straits are widest at the W. entrance, between Cape Trafalgar (p. 58) on the left, and Cape Spartel (p. 102) on the right. The narrowest part (8 M.) is between the Punta Canales (p. 6) and Cape Ciris (p. 123). The E. entrance, between Europa Point (p. 55) and the Punta Santa Catalina (p. 123), is 12½ M. in breadth. Between the ocean and the inland sea run strong currents, the upper and lighter, from W. to E., sometimes setting at the rate of 5 M. an hour, while the lower, being more strongly impregnated with salt and therefore heavier, flows in the opposite direction. These currents, coupled with the conflict of winds at the meeting of the waters, often cause serious trouble to sailing-vessels.

To the right, far to the S.E. as we steer into the straits, appears the lighthouse on Cape Spartel, to the E. of which opens the bay of Tangier (p. 98), bounded on the E. by Cape Malabata. To the left, on the treeless coast of Andalusia enlivened only by the numerous ancient watch-towers, lies the town of Tarifa, preceded by an isthmus ending in the Punta Marroquí, the southmost point of the mainland of Europe (36° N. lat.).

The steamers then pass the Punta Canales and Punta del Fraile, round the Punta Carnero, the southmost spur of the Sierra de los Gazules, and enter the broad Bay of Algeciras or Gibraltar, where they usually anchor in the open roads of Gibraltar (p. 52), to the N.W. of the government harbour.

From Gibraltar to Tangier and Mogador, see RR. 6 b and 14; to Genoa, see R. 15; to Naples, see R. 16; to Marseilles, see R. 17.

2. Lisbon.^[4]

Arrival by Sea. Steamers arriving from Europe (comp. R. 1) usually anchor in the Tagus (Tejo) near the custom-house (Alfándega; Pl. F, G, 5). Landing or embarking by boat (bote) ca. 500 rs., and 100–200 rs. for each trunk or package, including transport to the custom-house (bargaining necessary). Steamers from the South (Madeira and Brazil), cast anchor opposite the quarantine station (Posto Maritimo de Desinfecção; Pl. B, 5); passengers are landed in tenders (1600 rs.); for conveyance of luggage to the custom-house each piece 200 rs. As soiled linen is sometimes asked for, it should be packed in a separate bundle and given up in exchange for a metal token. A declaration has to be filled up at the custom-house (100 rs.); tobacco and unused articles only are dutiable. In the case of the larger liners the through-passengers (passageiros em transito) are conveyed without luggage to land, and thence back, by tender; the place and time of return should be ascertained. Special tenders are provided for the landing of travellers going no farther, and for their luggage. As a rule, fully half a day is spent in landing and other formalities prior to settling down in a hotel. Hotel-employés are not permitted to convey passengers from the steamers. As the custom-house is closed at sunset, passengers arriving by steamer in the evening must stay on board till next morning.

The Central Railway Station (Estação Central or Lisboa Rocio, Pl. F, 3; no restaurant), in the Rua Magalhães Lima, a little to the N.W. of the Rocio (p. 11), is the station for all the through-trains and expresses to Paris, Madrid, etc. Lisbon time is 37 min. behind Greenwich time, and 1 hr. 36 min. slower than mid-European.—Office of the International Sleeping Carriage Co. (Companhia Internacional dos Wagons-Lits dos Grandes Expressos Europeus) in the Avenida Palace Hotel (see below).

Hotels (advisable to engage rooms beforehand). *Avenida Palace Hotel (Pl. a; F, 3), adjoining the Central Station, pens. from 3000 rs. upwards; *Hot. Bragança (Pl b; E, 5), Rua Victor Cordon, in a high site, R. from 1200 rs., B. 350, déj. 800, D. 1100 rs.—Hot. de Inglaterra (Pl. i; F, 3), Praça dos Restauradores 45, well spoken of; Hot. Central (Pl. c; E, 5), in the lower town, commercial, déj. 800, D. 1000, pens. from 2600 rs.; Hôt. de l’Europe, Rua do Carmo 16 (Pl. F, 4), pens. from 2000 rs.—Hôt. Durand (Pl. k; E, 4), Rua das Flores 71, an English family hotel in a quiet situation, pens. 2400–3000 rs.—Avenida Hotel (Pl. h; F, 2), Avenida da Liberdade 67, good second-class house.

Cafés-Restaurants. *Tavares, Rua do Mundo 37 (Pl. E, F, 3), D. 800 and 1000 rs.; Impérial, Rua Magalhães Lima 124, opposite the Avenida Palace Hotel, also superior, D. 700 rs.; Suisso, Largo de Camões 8, opposite the E. side of the Central Station.—Beer. Cervejaria Jansen, entr. near the Hot. Bragança (see above; side-entrance Rua do Alecrim 30); Cervejaria Trindade, Rua da Trindade 110.

Post and Telegraph Office (Correio e Telegrapho; Pl. F, 5) in the Praça do Commercio, corner of Rua do Arsenal, in which last is the entrance to the poste-restante office. Also numerous branch-offices (estações auxiliares). Postage of letters (cartas) for Portugal and Spain 20 rs.; post-cards (bilhete postal) 10 rs.; for abroad (para o estrangeiro) 50 and 20 rs. respectively; registration-fee (registado) 50 rs.

Cabs (Trens de Praça) in the principal squares, elegant vehicles with two horses for 2 or 4 pers., but the tariff is high. The hirer should ask the driver (cocheiro) for a ticket or token (senha). The tariff is called tabella. ‘Impedido’ means engaged.

	In the old town		To the suburbs
	1–2 pers.	3–4 pers.	1–2 pers.	3–4 pers.
Per drive (por corrida)	400 rs.	500 rs.	1000 rs.	1200 rs.
Per hour (ás horas)	600 „	700 „	600 „	700 „
Two hours	1200 „	1400 „	1200 „	1400 „
Three hours	1500 „	1800 „	1500 „	1800 „
Four hours	1800 „	2200 „	1800 „	2200 „

The city boundary is the Estrada da Circumvallação (p. 9), and for the W. suburbs Algés (beyond Belem). After the first hour the time is reckoned by ¼ hours. If the cab is dismissed outside the town the driver is entitled to a return-fare. At night (1 a.m. till sunrise) the fares are doubled. Luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) free, up to 50 kilos (110 lbs.) 200 rs., over 50 kilos 400 rs.

Taximeter Cabs (Trens com Taximeter) are rather cheaper.—Motor Taximeters (Automovies da Praça), stand in the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4), comp. the tariff written in French.

Lifts and Cable Tramways (Ascensores or Elevadores), mostly every 3 min., from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. The fare up is called subida, down descida, return ida e volta.

1. From the Rua da Santa Justa (Pl. F, 4; near the Rua Aurea) to the Largo do Carmo (Pl. F, 4). Fare up 20, down 10, return 20 rs.

2. From the Calçada da Gloria (Pl. F, 3; W. side of the Avenida da Liberdade) to the Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), 20 rs.

3. From the Praça de Camões (Pl. E, 4) to São Bento (Pl. D, 3) and the Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 2, 3), 50 rs.

4. From the Rua da Palma (near the Theatro Apollo; Pl. G, 3) to the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4); up 10, down 20 rs.

5. From the Calçada da Lavra (Pl. F, 3) to the Travessa do Thorel (Pl. F, 2, 3), near the S. end of the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 20 rs.

Tramways (Carris de Ferro) are to be preferred to cabs owing to the hilly nature of the town and the badly paved streets. The starting point of the tramway-lines important to the traveller is the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4); cars proceeding hence to the S. viâ the Rua Augusta return viâ the Rua Aurea. To the W. cars follow the narrow Rua do Arsenal to the Largo do Corpo Santo (Pl. E, 5), where the line forks into an outer line skirting the quay, and an inner line (comp. the Plan); on the latter the ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ car alone passes the museum (p. 14). On both lines the ‘Belem’, ‘Algés’, or ‘Dafundo’ cars proceed to Belem (p. 14).—The terminus of the route is indicated on the boards at either end of the cars. On the return-journey, or, in the case of circular tramways, in the reverse direction, cars have different name-boards (given below in brackets). Boards in the streets bearing the word ‘paragem’ indicate stopping-places (beckoning necessary).—Fare, within the first zone, 30 rs.; for every addit. zone 10 rs. extra.—The three following circular lines are of special importance.

1. ‘Rio de Janeiro’ Car [‘Rocio’]: Rocio-Avenida da Liberdade (Pl. F, E, 3–1; p. 11) - Rua Alexandre Herculano (Pl. E, 1) - Travessa São Mamede (Pl. E, 2) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. E, 2) - Jardim Botanico (p. 11) - Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3) - Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua do Arsenal (Pl. E, F, 5) - Rua Aurea (Pl. F, 5, 4) - Rocio. Fare all the way (Circulação completa) 50 rs.

2. ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ Car [‘Graça’]: Rocio - Rua Augusta (Pl. F, 4) - Rua da Conceição (Pl. F, 5) - Sé (Pl. G, 5; p. 13) - Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4; comp. p. 13) - São Vicente de Fora (Pl. H, 4; p. 13) - Rua da Graça (Pl. H, 3) - Largo dos Quatro Caminhos (Pl. H, 3), returning by the same route as far as the Rua da Conceição (see above), thence viâ Rua Aurea, Rocio, Rua da Palma, Rua de São Lazaro (Pl. G, 3, 2), Rua Gomes Freire (Pl. G, 2, 1), Rua Conde de Redondo (Pl. F, 1), and the Avenida (p. 11) to the Rocio. Fare 80 rs.

3. ‘Largo das Duas Egrejas’ Car [‘Estrella’]: Upper end of Rua Garrett (Pl. E, F, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua Vinte e Quatro de Julho (Pl. E, D, 5, 4) - Largo de Santos (Pl. C, 4) - Rua de São Domingos (Pl. C, 4, 3) - Rua de Buenos Ayres (Pl C, 3) - Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 3, 2) - Rua Domingos Sequeira (Pl. C, 2) - Rua Ferreira Borges (Pl. C, 2, 1) - Rua do Campo de Ourique (Pl. C, 1) - Rua São João dos Bem Casados (Pl. C, D, 1) - Rua das Amoreiras (Pl. D, 1) - Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. D, E, 2, 3) - Jardim Botanico (p. 11) - Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua Garrett.

Steamers to and from London, Liverpool, Southampton, S. America, etc. (comp. pp. xviii-xx and R. 1). Also the Messageries Maritimes from Bordeaux to Lisbon; the Empreza Nacional de Navegação for Madeira, and the Empreza Insulana de Navegação for the Azores (comp. also R. 3). Agent for the Rotterdam Lloyd, German East African, Hamburg-American, and Hamburg & S. American Lines, E. George (p. 9); for the Compañía Trasatlántica, H. Burnay & Co.

Banks. London & Brazilian, Rua do Commercio 96; Crédit Franco-Portugais, Rua Augusta 61; Banco de Portugal, Rua Aurea (entr. Rua do Commercio 148); Weinstein & Co., Rua do Commercio 49 (1st floor).

Theatres (from end of Oct. to March; boxes are called camarotes, stalls cadeiras, the pit platéa géral). Theatro de São Carlos (Pl. F, 4), Largo de São Carlos, for Italian operas and ballet; Theatro da Republica (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, for Spanish, Italian, or French plays and operettas; Nacional (Pl. F, 3), Praça de Dom Pedro, for Portuguese plays; also several places for variety entertainments.

Bull Ring (Praça de Touros; Pl. G, 1), reached from the Rocio by the ‘Campo Pequeno’ or ‘Lumiar’ tramway-cars; parties should charter cabs in good time (return-fare ca. 3000 rs.). Bull-fights, less cruel than in Spain, Sun. and holidays (Easter to the end of June); tickets at Praça dos Restauradores 18.

British Minister, Hon. Sir Francis H. Villiers, Rua São Francisco de Borja 63 (Pl. B, 4).—U. S. Minister, Henry T. Gage, Largo do Carino 18 (Pl. P, 4).

Consuls. British, P. A. Somers Cocks, Travessa da Ribeira Nova 26; vice-consul, H. E. Jones.—U. S. Consul-General, Louis H. Aymé, Avenida da Liberdade 196 (Pl. F, 1); vice-consul, H. E. Bradford.—Lloyd’s Agents, Rawes & Co., Rua do Commercio 31 (Pl. F, 5).

Goods Agent. E. George, Rua da Prata 8 (Pl. F, 5).—Tourist Agents, Thos. Cook & Son, Rua Aurea 52 (Pl. F, 5).

Churches. English (St. George’s), with cemetery (Pl. C, 2), Rua da Estrella; services at 11 & 7; chaplain, Rev. E. P. Lewis, D. D.—Presbyterian (Pl. B, 4), Rua da Arriaga 13; services at 11 & 7.30; minister, Rev. R. M. Lithgow.

Club. Royal British Club, Rua de São Francisco de Paula 1 (Pl. B, 4), also for temporary members.

Sights. The Churches, few of which are interesting, are open from 7 to 10 a.m., the Cathedral till 1 p.m.

Museu d’Artilheria (p. 14), on week-days 10–3, free.

Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes (p. 14), Sun., Thurs., and holidays, 11–4, free; on other days 12–2, by leave of the director obtained through the attendant. When the main door is closed the entrance is to the left, through the gateway of the barracks and the garden.

Museu Nacional dos Coches (p. 14), daily, exc. Frid., 12–5, free.

Visitors having only a few hours at their disposal on land should avail themselves of one of the circular tramway-lines (p. 7) to obtain a general survey of the town. The Graça Church (p. 13; *View) should be visited in the morning (‘Graça’ tramway); in the afternoon, Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (p. 11) or Estrella Church (p. 12). The trip to Belem (p. 14) should on no account be omitted.

Two Days. 1st. Forenoon: Praça do Commercio and Rocio (pp. 10, 11); Avenida da Liberdade (p. 11); *Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (p. 11); *Botanic Garden (p. 11); Estrella Church (p. 12; *View). Afternoon: Belem (p. 14).—2nd. Excursion to *Cintra (p. 15), requiring at least half a day.—Bull-fights, see p. 8.

Lisbon, Portuguese Lisbóa, the capital of the new republic of Portugal (comp. p. 10), the see of an archbishop, a fortress, and also an important commercial city, with 357,700 inhab., lies in 38° 42′ N. lat. and 9° 11′ W. long., on the broad Bay of the Tagus, which forms an excellent harbour just above the comparatively narrow (1–2 M.) mouth of the river (see p. xxix). The town rises in picturesque terraces, affording many charming views, while the luxuriance of its public gardens is almost unrivalled in Europe. Lisbon is certainly a very beautiful city, and its ardent admirers have compared it even with Naples and Constantinople.

The town, which is girdled by the Estrada da Circumvallação, a road 5 M. long, consists of several quarters. On the E. lies the old town, or Lisboa Oriental, on the slope of the Collina do Castello. On the low ground between the old town and the new is the Cidade Baixa, which has sprung up since the earthquake of 1755. To the W. is Lisboa Occidental, the modern quarter. Along the Tagus extend quays and docks, constructed in 1887, and, after a serious collapse, restored in 1894–1905. The harbour is entered by 5000 vessels annually, one-third of them being under the British flag, one-tenth under the French, and one tenth under the German. The Portuguese vessels are chiefly engaged in trading with the country’s African colonies and with S. America.

The ancient name of Lisbon was Ulisipo or Olisipo, which led early Greek travellers and scholars to connect the place, but erroneously, with the legends of Ulysses. Under the Romans, thanks to its splendid harbour, it ranked as the second city in Lusitania, and alternately with Mérida, the capital, was frequently the residence of the Roman governors. From 407 to 585 it was occupied by the Alans, and from 585 to 715 by the Visigoths, and after the battle of Veger de la Frontera (711) it fell into the hands of the Moors, who called it Aloshbuna or Lishbuna. In 1147 it was retaken by king Affonso Henriques, aided by an army of Crusaders. The bulk of these were Englishmen; and thus the siege of Lisbon is doubly interesting as it was ‘the first instance of the close connection between the two nations (England and Portugal) which has lasted down to the present century’ (H. M. Stephens).

The importance of Lisbon began under Affonso III. (1248–79), who transferred the royal residence hither from Coimbra (1260). The great discoveries made by the Portuguese at the end of the 15th cent., and the conquest of India by Francisco d’Almeida (d. 1510) and Affonso de Albuquerque (d. 1515), greatly benefited the capital, which soon became the richest town in Europe, and recovered rapidly even from the effects of the earthquakes of 1531 and 1575. But the sixty years of Spanish dominion (1580–1640), the defeats of the Spanish and Portuguese fleets in the war with Holland, and the loss of India were severe trials. The earthquake of 1755 laid half the city in ruins. The beginning of the 19th cent. brought the French invasion, the removal of the royal residence to Rio de Janeiro, the Peninsular War, the loss of Brazil, and the utter decadence of Lisbon. Since the period of revolutions, and since the partial bankruptcy of the country in 1892, Lisbon has again risen from a state of decay to be a great and handsome city, thanks largely to the initiative of the German Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Kohary, consort of Queen Maria II., and to his sons, Pedro V. (1853–61) and Luis I. (1861–89). Party strife in the next reign led to the dictatorship of the minister João Franco, and on 1st Feb. 1908 Lisbon witnessed the assassination of Carlos I. and the crown-prince Luis Philippe (comp. p. 14). Carlos’s second son then ascended the throne as Manuel II. He had, however, only reigned two years when the establishment of the Republic forced him to go into exile (5th Oct., 1910). President of the provisional government Theophilo Braga. The republican colours are green and red.

a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental and Oriental.

Most of the public buildings in Lisbon, erected almost exclusively after the earthquake of 1755, are situated in the Praça do Commercio (Pl. F, 5). In the centre of the square rises an Equestrian Statue of Joseph I. (1750–77); on the S. side is the Caes das Columnas, a quay affording a superb view of the bay of the Tagus, with its busy shipping, and of the S. bank (Outra Banda), with the castle-hill of Palmella in the distance.

To the N. of this square begins the rectangularly planned Cidade Baixa (‘lower city’), once a bay of the Tagus, the three chief streets of which, running to the N., are the Rua Augusta, spanned by a triumphal arch, the Rua d’Ouro or Aurea (to the left), and the Rua da Prata (to the right). These streets afford interesting glimpses of the towering masses of the houses of Lisboa Occidental (to the left), with the Carmo church, and of Lisboa Oriental (to the right), with the cathedral and the castle of St. George. At the N. end of the Rua Augusta and the Rua Aurea lies the—

Praça de Dom Pedro Quarto (Pl. F, 3, 4), commonly called O Rocío, one of the chief tramway stations (p. 7). Owing to the peculiar wavy pattern of its mosaic pavement the Rocio has received from the British sailors the nickname ‘Roly-poly Square’. The square is adorned with two bronze fountains and a marble column bearing a bronze Statue of Pedro IV. (d. 1834; emperor of Brazil, 1826–31). Above the S.W. corner of the square rises on massive substructures the picturesque ruined church of Igreja do Carmo, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. We may reach it by the ‘ascensor’ No. 1 (p. 7). On the N. side rises the Theatro Nacional (p. 8). The Market in the adjacent Praça da Figueira (Pl. F, 4), to the E., deserves a visit in the early morning.

From the W. side of the theatre we proceed past the Central Station (p. 6) to the *Avenida da Liberdade (Pl. F, E, 3–1), a magnificent promenade, 100 yds. wide and more than ½ M. long, with luxuriant vegetation, especially palms, and affording charming views. It is most frequented on Sundays and holidays towards evening, when the fashionable world may be seen driving and riding. At the beginning of the Avenida is the Praça dos Restauradores, with the Monumento dos Restauradores de Portugal, recalling the revolt of 1640, when the yoke of the Spanish ‘Intrusos’ was shaken off.

To the left, at the beginning of the Avenida Promenade, is the steep Calçada da Gloria, through which a funicular tramway (No. 2; p. 7) ascends to the *Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), where we enjoy a magnificent view of the bay, to the S., and of Lisboa Oriental, with St. George’s Castle and the churches of Graça and do Monte (p. 13), to the E. Far below lie the Avenida da Liberdade, the Central Station, the Rocio, and the Baixa.

From the S. angle of the gardens the Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) descends to the Largo da Misericordia, and past the Jesuit church of São Roque, a sumptuous late-Renaissance edifice by Fil. Terzi, an Italian architect (1566), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (p. 12). We proceed, however, to the N.W. of the Alameda and follow the Rua de Dom Pedro Quinto to the—

Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3), with a fountain and attractive pleasure-grounds, occupying the highest site in Lisboa Occidental. From the W. angle of the grounds we obtain a fine view of the Estrella church (p. 12) and the Tagus.

Proceeding in the same direction we next follow the Rua da Escola Polytechnica to the Polytechnic School (Pl. E, 2), which comprises an interesting Natural History Museum (entrance on the N.W. side), an Observatory, and a Meteorological Station. To the Polytechnic belongs also the—

*Botanic Garden (Pl. E, 2; open to the public), founded in 1875, and for luxuriance of vegetation the finest in Europe. The lower part of the garden contains a magnificent avenue of palms and numerous southern plants. It is reached by a road from the S.E. angle of the Polytechnic, and there is a side-entrance in the Rua Nova da Alegria. In the upper part are the Estufas or greenhouses.

We descend to a lower exit of the garden opening into the Avenida, cross the latter and ascend by the Ascensor da Lavra (p. 7) to the E. town. From the Campo dos Martyres da Patria (Pl. F, G, 2), the terminus of the funicular, the tramway ‘Santo André’ (infrequent service), or the circular line ‘Graça’ below its E. side, lead to the Rua da Palma (funicular No. 4, p. 7). Thereafter through Lisboa Oriental, see below.

We may travel also by the ‘Graça’ tramway (in returning called ‘Rua Gomes Freire’) in the reverse direction, starting from the Sé Patriarchal and proceeding to the Nossa Senhora da Graça church on the way out, and descend by the funicular.

From the Botanic Garden the ‘Estrella’ tramway brings us viâ the Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) to the Aqueducto das Aguas Livres, constructed in 1729–49. It leads us farther to Buenos Ayres, the high-lying W. quarter of the city, to the vicinity of the cemeteries, and to the Jardim da Estrella (Pl. C, 2).

The Estrella Church (Pl. C, 3), officially known as the Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús, was built in 1779–96. It is crowned with a lofty dome over the crossing, and its interior is sumptuously fitted up.

The *Ascent of the Dome (entrance by 5th door on the right; fee 100 rs.) amply repays the fatigue. The stairs in the N.W. tower ascend first to the flat roof of the church, where we already have a fine view. We then pass through the double lining of the dome into a gallery surrounding its interior. A ladder finally leads to the Lantern, the view from which (best in the afternoon) is the most extensive in Lisbon and includes the whole of the city, the S. bank of the estuary, and the ocean.

The Jardim da Estrella is flanked on the W. by the Rua da Estrella which ascends to the English Cemetery (Cemiterio dos Inglezes; Pl. C, 2; visitors ring; fee 50–100 rs.), laid out in 1717, the oldest Protestant burial-ground in Portugal. It contains the grave of Henry Fielding (1707–54), author of the immortal ‘Tom Jones’. Here too is the English Church (p. 9).

To return from this point we take the funicular No. 3 (p. 7), past the Palacio das Côrtes (Pl. D, 3; Chamber of Deputies), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (Pl. E, 4; pron. Kamŏengsh), which is embellished with a monument of the famous poet Camões (1524–80), the author of the Lusiads, a great national epic celebrating the noble deeds of his countrymen.

From the Praça de Camões we return through the Rua Garrett and the Rua do Carmo (Pl. F, 4), the busiest streets in the town, with the best shops, to the Rocio (p. 11).

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Time permitting, we may now pay a short visit to Lisboa Oriental, which is best reached by the funicular line No. 4 (p. 7). From the terminus in the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4) we pass round the old Graça monastery (now barracks) to the church of—

Nossa Senhora da Graça (Pl. G, H, 3, 4; 262 ft.), situated on a hill which affords a fine view of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town, while the harbour is concealed by St. George’s Castle (see below).

We now return to the barracks just mentioned and enter the Rua da Graça to the N., whence the Travessa do Monte leads immediately to the left to the (5 min.) chapel of Nossa Senhora do Monte (Pl. G, H, 3; 328 ft.). The extensive *View from this point embraces the greater part of Lisbon, the harbour, the S. bank, and the region to the N.E. as far as Santarém.

From the Rua da Graça the circular tramway ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ descends to the old Augustinian monastery of São Vicente de Fóra (Pl. H, 4), now the seat of the Patriarch of Lisbon. The church, a late-Renaissance building of 1582, lost its dome in the earthquake of 1755. The cloisters contain the Pantheon Real, the burial-place of the Portuguese monarchs of the House of Braganza from the time of John IV. (d. 1656) onwards.

We take the same circular tramway-line as far as the Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4). Thence we walk through the Travessa do Funil to the Rua do Chão de Feira, and through the St. George’s Gateway to the Castello de São Jorge (Pl. G, 4), an ancient Moorish stronghold and once a royal residence, but now used as barracks and a military prison, where we apply at the guard-house for leave to see the fine view from the S. Terrace. If so disposed we may descend to the cathedral, which stands about halfway up the castle-hill and is known as the—

Sé Patriarchal (Pl. G, 5), the oldest church in Lisbon, founded in 1150, but rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th cent., and almost entirely modernized after the earthquake of 1755. From the cathedral the Rua da Conceição brings us back to the lower town.

b. The Streets on the Tagus. Belem.

In the Rua da Alfándega, a few paces to the E. of the Praça do Commercio (p. 10), rises the church of—

Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha (Pl. ‘C.V.’; G, 5). The *Façade, in the richest ‘Emmanuel style’ (see p. 14), is a relic of the church of Nossa Senhora da Misericordia, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. A little farther on, between Nos. 42 and 44 we get a glimpse of the Casa dos Bicos, built in the 16th cent. by Braz, a son of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10). It derives its name from the facetted stones of the façade (‘bico’ meaning beak or point). All the electric tramways proceed farther to the Arsenal do Exército (Pl. H, 4, 5), containing the Artillery Museum on the first floor (adm., see p. 9).

From the N.W. corner of the Praça do Commercio, where king Carlos and the crown-prince were brutally assassinated in 1908, the Rua do Arsenal leads to the Largo do Municipio (Pl. F, 5), in the centre of which stands a so-called Pelourinho, or pillory, as a symbol of the civic jurisdiction.

The tramway ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ passes the Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes (Pl. B, C, 4; adm., see p. 9), Rua das Janellas Verdes 57, which contains art-industrial collections and a picture-gallery. (Note in Room G, on the N. wall, No. 282, St. Jerome, by Alb. Dürer.)

The outer line, skirting the Tagus and affording fine views, passes the Mercado, or fish-market (Pl. E, 5), which is worth seeing in the early morning.

The two ‘Belem’ tramway-lines (Algés and Dafundo) lead through the suburb of Junqueira to that of Belem (Brit. vice-consul, C. J. F. Duff). The Praça de Dom Fernando with a bronze statue, 13 ft. in height, of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10) is adjoined on the N. by the Paço de Belem. In the S.E. corner of the building is the Museu Nacional dos Coches (adm., see p. 9), with about thirty historical state-carriages.

Farther to the W. we reach in 5 min. the Praça de Vasco da Gama, with the famous—

**Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem (Bethlehem; tramway from the Praça do Commercio, Pl. F5, in ca. ½ hr.). This Hieronymite monastery, founded in 1499 in memory of Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, but used as an orphanage (Casa Pia) since 1834, is still, in spite of infelicitous alterations, the most brilliant example of the fantastic ‘Emmanuel style’ (Arte Manuelina), of the time of Emmanuel I. the Great, a picturesque blend of late-Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance features with motifs from the gorgeous edifices of the East Indies.

The church of Santa Maria, at the S.E. angle of the monastery, the burial-place of king Emmanuel and his successors, has a superb portal by João de Castilho (sculptured by Nicholas ‘the Frenchman’), which, according to Mr. Fergusson, resembles in design and detail the chapel at Roslin (see Baedeker’s Great Britain). The church is open from early morning till 9, and also after 2.30 p.m.—Adjoining the W. portal of the church is the entrance (where we ring; fee 100–150 rs.) to the orphanage and to the grand *Cloisters, the master-work of João de Castilho.

On the Tagus, about ½ M. to the S.W. of the monastery, rises the *Tower of Belem (Torre de Belem), erected in 1520 to guard the mouth of the river (best viewed at a distance).