The Black Sea (Turk. Kara Denis; Russ. Chornoye More; p. xxxiv), the Pontus Euxinus of the ancients, sometimes deserves its name for the dark-blue hue of its waters, which is markedly different from the blue of the Mediterranean. Its area, nearly equal to that of the Baltic, amounts to 163,689 sq. M., without including the 14,519 sq. M. of the Sea of Azov (p. xxxiv) which is united with the Black Sea by the narrow Straits of Kertch (p. 570) and separated from the shallow Gulf of Odessa (p. 564) by the Crimean Peninsula. The basin proper of the Black Sea is a huge depression, falling away rapidly from its margin to its centre, where it reaches a depth of ca. 7365 ft. Its flow and ebb are not perceptible. Owing to the great rivers it receives its surface-water is but slightly salt (1.8 per cent), but the deep water is more saline (2.2 to 2.3 per cent). The bottom is coated with black mud impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen and is therefore entirely destitute of animal life. On warm summer nights the phosphorescence of the water is very observable. As in the Mediterranean, the vessels are often followed by dolphins.

During almost the whole of summer gentle N. and N.E. winds, with a clear sky, prevail in the S.W. part of the Black Sea. At other seasons the wind is very variable. The N.W. and W. winds often bring fog, which makes the entrance of the Bosporus difficult. In winter and about the time of the equinox dangerous storms from the S. and S.E. are by no means rare.

82. From Constantinople to Constantza.

224 M. Steamboats (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Constantza, see p. 563). 1. Royal Rumanian State Maritime Service (Serviciul Maritim Român; in correspondence with the North German Lloyd; comp. R. 76), from Constantinople on Tues. and Sat. aft. in 14 hrs. (from Constantza on Sun. and Thurs. night in 12 hrs.; comp. p. 563); fare 55 or 35 fr.—2. Austrian Lloyd (for Odessa and Nikolayev) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (from Constantza on Thurs. night viâ Varna), in about 1½ days (fare 51 fr., 20 fr.; in the reverse direction 44 fr., 20 fr.); also by Line Braila B, from Constantinople every other Frid. aft. viâ Varna, in 2 days (from Constantza direct to Constantinople Wed. aft., in 19 hrs.); fare 58 (back, 46) or 25 fr. (without food in 2nd cabin).—3. Società Nazionale, Line XIII (for Braila), from Constantinople Sun. aft. (from Constantza Mon. aft.), in 17 hrs. (fare 40 or 28 fr.).

For Constantinople and the voyage through the Bosporus, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The Rumanian and Italian vessels pursue a N. course through the Black Sea, long affording fine retrospects of the precipitous shores of Anatolia and the fissured promontories of the Rumelian coast.

Steering to the N.W. the Odessa steamer of the Austrian Lloyd reaches the open sea off Rumelí Fanar (p. 560). It again, however, approaches the Rumelian coast abreast of Cape Iniada (Turk. Kuru Burnu), the Thynias Promontorium of the ancients.

Beyond the far-projecting Cape Kuratan or Zeitün Burnu (lights), belonging to S. Bulgaria (formerly E. Rumelia), opens the wide Gulf of Burgas. We pass the peninsula of Sozopolis and the lighthouses of the islands of Megalo Nisi and Anastasia, and enter the Bay of Burgas, which runs deeply into the land from the middle of the gulf.

Burgas (Hôt. Commercial, etc.), the modern Greek Pyrgos, is the chief harbour of S. Bulgaria (11,700 inhab.) and lies at the head of the bay between large lagoons. The harbour is tolerably sheltered from the E. wind by two moles. The chief exports are grain and attar of roses.

In continuing our voyage we pass the peninsula of Mesembriya (the ancient Mesembria) and Cape Emine (lighthouse), the N. horn of the Bay of Burgas, forming a spur of the well-wooded Little Balkan Range, the old frontier between E. Rumelia and Bulgaria.

On the N. margin of the Balkan Mts. lies Varna, the ancient Odessos, now the chief seaport of Bulgaria (pop. 35,000), where some of the Austrian Lloyd steamers call. The entrance to the bay of Varna, open towards the E., is bounded on the S. by Cape Galata (Galata Burnu; lighthouse) and on the N. by Cape St. George. The anchorage, between two long moles, is similar to that of Burgas. The Devna Canal connects the bay with Lake Devna.

Farther on the steamer rounds Cape Kaliakra (Turk. Chiliga Burnu; lighthouse), jutting far to the S., and rejoins the course of the direct steamer from the Bosporus to Constantza. Next comes Cape Shabla (lights), 10–12 M. to the N. of which lies the village of Ilanjik, on the border between Bulgaria and the Rumanian Dobruja. At night the position of the flat coast is revealed by the lights of the small port of Mangalia and of Cape Tusla, stretching in front of the lagoon of Mangalia.

After a short halt in the open roads all the steamers pass through the entrance to the harbour of Constantza and moor alongside the quays of the E. mole. The landing-place of the Rumanian mail-steamers (see below) is close to the harbour-station.

Constantza.—Hotels (crowded in the latter half of Aug. and in Sept.). Hôt. Carol I., at the E. end of the headland, of the first class, with garden, R. 6–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. (lei); Regina, Raynier, etc.

Post & Telegraph Office, to the E. of the chief railway-station; branch-office at the harbour.—Cab 2 lei.

Steamboat Agencies. Rumanian State Maritime Service (see below), at the landing-stage; Austrian Lloyd, H. Rappaport; Società Nazionale, E. Tozzi.

British Vice-Consul, Lionel E. Keyser.—Lloyd’s Agents, Watson & Youell.

Constantza (Ruman. Constanţa, Turk. Küstenjeh), a seaport with 17,000 inhab. and in summer a popular Rumanian seaside-resort (see below), lies on a small tongue of land rising boldly from the sea and enclosing with the E. mole (1500 yds.) a sickle-shaped harbour. The latter, which is always free from ice, is not yet quite complete. Beside the S. mole is the so-called petroleum-harbour. Petroleum, agricultural produce, and timber are the chief exports.

From the harbour-station the chief promenade of the town leads past the Cathedral (left) and the new Municipal Casino (right) to the Lighthouse at the E. end of the promontory. In the Piaţa Independenţei (Independence Square), at the narrowest part of the peninsula, rises a monument to Ovid, who died in exile at the neighbouring Tomi (afterwards Constantiana) in 17 A.D.

In summer there is a train-service to (½ hr.) Mamaia, with a large bathing-establishment.

The sailings (Sun. & Thurs.) and arrivals (Sun. & Wed.) of the Rumanian mail-boats are in connection with the arrivals and departures (at and from the harbour-station) of the Ostende-Vienna Express, the Berlin Rapide, and the Bukarest Express.

83. From Constantinople to Odessa.

397 M. Steamboats (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Odessa, p. 565). 1. North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR. 23, 24, 77, 80), to Odessa (and Batum) every other Sun. evening in 1½ days (48 or 32 marks).—2. Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co.: (a) by the direct Alexandria line (p. 491) from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Thurs.) foren., in 29 hrs. (80 or 50 fr.); (b) Two circular lines to Syria and Egypt (p. 466), each every other Thurs. or Frid. aft. (from Odessa Sat.), in ca. 1½ days (same fares); (c) Anatolian Line (p. 571) from Constantinople every other Sat. (from Odessa Mon.) aft., in ca. 1½ days (68 or 42 fr., without food).—3. Austrian Lloyd (Odessa and Nikolayev Line) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (p. 562) and Constantza (see above), in 2½ days (fares, 1st class 78 fr., 2nd class, without meals, 30 fr.). On the return trips (3¼ days) the boats leave Odessa on Wed. aft. and call at Constantza and Varna (p. 562).—4. Società Nazionale, Lines X & XI (Genoa to Odessa), from Constantinople Thurs. aft. (from Odessa Frid. even.), sometimes calling at Burgas or Constantza, in ca. 1½ days (fare 60 or 47 fr.).—5. Messageries Maritimes (Marseilles to Odessa), from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Wed.) in 3 days (60 or 40 fr.).

For Russian money, see p. 565.—Russian time is that of E. Europe (p. 537).

For Constantinople and the voyage through the Bosporus, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The direct boats steer to the N.N.E. across the Black Sea (p. 561) all the way to the Gulf of Odessa (p. xxxiv). Opposite the mouths of the Danube and about 26 M. from the coast-town of Kilia we sight, on the left, the Isle of Serpents (Ruman. Ins. Serpilor, Greek Fidonisi), a bare islet of limestone rock, with a lighthouse, belonging to Rumania.

The flat coast of Bessarabia, with its numerous lagoons (Russ. Liman); is visible only in clear weather.

On the Dniester Liman, or great lagoon of the Dniester, lie the towns of Akkerman (the ancient Tyras) and Ovidiopol and the lighthouse at the mouth of the Zaregrad, beyond which we approach the abrupt edge of the great steppe of S. Russia, which is intersected by deep defiles known as Ovrági or Bálki. Important landmarks are the Kovalevski Tower, once the water-tower at Lustdorf (p. 568), and the lighthouses on the promontory of Bolshoi Fontan, at the Great Fountain (p. 568).

Nearing the Harbour of Odessa we have a good view of the whole sea-front of the city and of the series of villas (datshas) between the Great Fountain and Cape Lansheron. The steamer passes the Vorontsóv Lighthouse on the outer mole (p. 566) and then anchors in the ‘quarantine harbour’.

Odessa.—Arrival by Sea. The examination of passports and luggage, which not even the passenger bound for more distant places escapes, occupies a considerable time. If the steamer is not berthed at the quay passengers are landed by small boat (40 copecks, with baggage 50 cop.; in stormy weather 60–75 cop.) at the Platonovsky Mole (Pl. E, 4, 5). Passengers going straight on by railway should take a cab direct to the main railway-station (70 cop., with pair 1 roub. 40 cop., incl. luggage; see p. 565).

The Main Railway Station (Grande Gare; Pl. D, 7, 8) is the terminus of through Express Trains from Berlin viâ Oderberg, Cracow, Lemberg, Podvoloczyska, and Shmerinka (41 hrs.; fare 130 or 82 marks) and viâ Alexandrovo, Warsaw, Brest, Rovno, Kasatin, and Shmerinka (42 hrs.; fare 122 marks 95 or 75 marks 90 pfennige), and from Vienna viâ Oderberg and Podvoloczyska (35½ hrs.).

Hotels. *London (Pl. b; D, 5), Nikoláyevsky Boul. 11, with sea-view, R. from 2½ roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–3) 1, D. (3–8) 2 roub.; *St. Petersburg (Pl. c; D, 4), corner of Yekateríninskaya and Nikoláyevsky Boul., also with sea-view, R. from 2½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.; *Bristol (Pl. i; D, 5), corner of Púshkinskaya and Kondratenko Sts., R. 1½–15 roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–2) ¾, D. (1–8) 1–2 roub.; *Yevropéiskaya (Pl. d; D, 5), Púshkinskaya 4, commercial, R. from 1½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.—Hôt. de Paris (Paríshskaya; Pl. f, D 5), Púshkinskaya 8; Hôt. Passage, cor. of Deribássovskaya and Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, 5), etc.

Restaurants at the *London, *Yevropéiskaya, *Bristol, and St. Petersburg hotels; also Alexander Park (p. 568), in summer only, with beautiful view; Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. 566; in summer), déj. 60 cop., D. ¾–1 roub.; Exchange (p. 568), D. 60 cop.; Bruhns (luncheon rooms), Deribássovskaya 16 (in the court).

Cafés. Fanconi, corner of Yekateríninskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5; newspapers); Robinat, Yekateríninskaya, near Nikoláyevsky Boul. (Pl. D, 5); Liebmann, corner of Preobrashénskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5); Palais Royal, Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5), café-restaurant, D. 50 cop.

Cabs (Isvóshtshik). To the Main Railway Station, with luggage, 35 cop.; to or from the Quarantine Harbour, with luggage, 70 cop.; drive in the town 20, per hour 50, each addit. ½ hr. 25 cop.; to Lansherón 30 cop.; to the Small, to the Middle, and to the Great Fountains 75 cop., 1 roub. 10, 1 roub. 50 cop.—Carriage and Pair (‘phaeton’) cost double the above mentioned fares.

Tramways (horse) from the Main Railway Station (Pl. D, 7) through Rishelyévskaya, Lansherónovskaya, and Khersónskaya to the Hospital (Pl. B, C, 3); from the Old Churchyard (Pl. C, 8) to a point below the Voyénny-Spusk (Pl. D, 4), every 5 min.; from corner of Preobrashénskaya and Malaya Arnaútskaya (Pl. C, 7) to the Little Fountain (p. 568), every 10 min. in ¾ hr. (with branch to Arkadia); from corner of Kanátnaya and Skóbelevskaya (Pl. E, 6) to Lansherón (p. 568), every 10 minutes.—Electric Tramway from the Greek Bazaar (Pl. 2; D, 5) to Lansherón (p. 568), every 3 minutes.—Steam Tramway from Kulikóvo Póle (Pl. D, 8) to the Great Fountain (p. 568), every 25 min., in ¾ hr. (15 cop. to the Middle Fountain, 20 cop. to the Great).

General Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. 24; C, 4, 5), Sadóvaya 8 (poste restante upstairs, to the left). Foreign letters 10, post-cards 4 cop.

Banks. Imperial (Pl. 1; D, 6), Shúkovskaya 9 (open 9.30–3); Chayés, Rishelyévskaya; Crédit Lyonnais, corner of Rishelyévskaya and Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5; 10–4).—Money. The Russian roubel, divided into 100 copecks, is worth about 2s. 2d.—Money Changer. Gruber, Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5).—Booksellers. Becker & Wedde, Berndt, both in Deribássovskaya.

Sea Baths at Lansherón (stony), the Fountains, Arkadia, Lustdorf (more open sea), and other places.

Consuls. British Consul-General, Ch. S. Smith, Kanatnaya 31.—U. S. Consul, J. H. Grout, same street, No. 33; vice-consul, A. W. Smith.

Police Headquarters, Preobrashénskaya 38 (Pl. 23; C, 5).

Steamboat Agents. North German Lloyd and German Levant Line, McNabb, Rougier, & Co.; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Lansherónowskaya 5; Austrian Lloyd, Regir; Società Nazionale, Vitale & Gallian; Messageries Maritimes, C. Muntz.

Theatres. Town Theatre (Pl. 29; D, 5), Theatre Square, operas and dramas; Sibiryakóv Theatre (‘Theatre’; Pl. C, 4), corner of Khersónskaya and Kónnaya, for operas and plays.—Pleasure Resorts. Hôt. du Nord; Alexander Park (p. 568); Arkadia (p. 568); Little Fountain (p. 568).—Circus Truzzi (Pl. 4; C, 4), also a theatre of varieties.—English Club (Pl. 6; D, 5).

English Church, Remeslennaya 15 (Pl. D, 6, 7).

Sights (one day or less). Nikoláyevsky Boulevard and Monument of Catharine (p. 567); drive through Yekateríninskaya, Preobrashénskaya, Deribássovskaya. and Púshkinskaya (as far as the Exchange); Alexander Park (p. 568) and Lansherón (p. 568).

Odessa (154 ft.), in the province of Khersón, is the chief commercial and industrial place on the Black Sea and the fourth-largest town of the Russian Empire (pop. 500,000, including at least 175,000 Jews). It is the seat of an archbishop of the Greek church and of a modern Russian University, and it is the headquarters of the 8th army-corps. It lies in 46°28′ N. lat. and 30°45′ E. long, and extends for a distance of about 4 M. over the elevated and treeless steppe. The winter climate is consequently very severe (mean temperature in Jan. 25° Fahr., July 73°, annual mean 49°). Its wide and well-paved streets, crossing each other at right angles and generally planted with trees, make it one of the most regularly laid out and most handsome cities in Russia. Attractive parks have been as it were wrested from the barren soil by dint of untiring perseverance and unstinted care.

The rescript in which Catharine II. ordered the foundation of the town was dated May, 1794, and its foundation-stone was laid by Admiral J. de Ribas in August of the same year. The new city, which sprang up on the site of the small Tartar and Turkish village of Chadshibéy, was probably named after the Sarmatian harbour of Odessos which is said to have lain in this neighbourhood. From 1817 to 1859 Odessa was a free harbour. It was greatly improved by the efforts of two of its governors, the Duc de Richelieu (1803–14) and Prince Vorontsóv (1823–54). During the Crimean war the town was attacked unsuccessfully by the British and French fleets in 1854, and the blockade by Turkish war-ships in 1876–7 was equally fruitless. The excesses of the revolution of 1905 were nowhere more ghastly than at Odessa.

The Harbour (347 acres in area), which in winter has sometimes to be kept open by ice-breakers, consists of an outer harbour (154 acres) and five inner basins. Effective protection against all sea-winds is afforded by a breakwater (1334 yds. long), the quarantine mole (1120 yds. long), and the so-called roadstead mole (710 yds. long), forming a continuation of the last. The so-called Quarantine Harbour (Pl. E, F, 5) is for foreign vessels; the New Harbour (Pl. E, 4), between the Platonovsky and New moles, and the Coal Harbour (Pl. D, E, 4) are for Russian traders; the Practical Harbour (Pl. D, 3, 4) is for coasting vessels. To the N. of the town, opposite the suburb of Peressyp, where a second breakwater and new docks are projected, lies the Petroleum Harbour.

Opposite the New Mole (Pl. E, 4) is a massive Flight of Granite Steps (193 in number) ascending to the level of the town. It is adjoined by a wire-rope elevator (3 or 2 cop.).

The finest feature of this part of the town is the *Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), a broad street ¼ M. in length, which stretches along the margin of the plateau above the harbour, commanding an unimpeded view of the sea. It is bounded on one side by a series of handsome buildings, on the other by four rows of trees and pleasant grounds. In spring this is the rendezvous of the fashionable world, just as the Deribássovskaya (p. 567) is in winter. Towards the N. the houses end with the Vorontsóv Palace. The Imperial Palace (Pl. D, 5) is also the residence of the general in command of the Odessa Military District. At the entrance to the Yekateríninskaya a bronze statue of the Duc de Richelieu (Pl. 32; see above) was erected in 1826.

A little to the S.W., in Catharine Square, rises the Monument of Empress Catharine II. (Pl. 31; D, 4), by Dmítrenko and Popóv (1900). Round the pedestal bearing the bronze statue of the empress are figures of Prince Potémkin (in front), Count Súbov (on the right), Col. de Volant (left), and Admiral J. de Ribas (at the back). The monument is 35 ft. high.

From this point the Yekateríninskaya, one of the main streets of the city, leads towards the S. Just beyond the Theatre Square (see below) we turn to the right and follow the Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5), a short street with the finest shops in Odessa, skirting the Deribássov Garden, to the—

Sobórnaya Square (Pl. C, 5), with its pleasure-grounds and fountain. On the W. side of the square rises the Cathedral of the Transfiguration (Pl. 13), founded in 1794, in length 114, in breadth 46 yds., and 164 ft. high. It has a dome, rising over the centre, and a tower 266 ft. high. In the interior, to the right of the main entrance, is the tomb of Prince Vorontsóv (d. 1856; see below).—In the grounds to the N. of the church is a bronze statue of Prince Vorontsóv (Pl. 22; p. 566), by Brugger (1863).—On its E. side the square is skirted by the Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, D, 7–4), the longest street in the town.

To the N. of the Sobórnaya Square diverges from the last-named street to the N.W. the Khersónskaya, with the building of the New Russian University (Pl. 30; C, 4), which was opened in 1865 and contains archæological, natural history, and other collections (open on Sun. 12–2).—At the N. end of the Torgóvaya (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) is the Rússov Picture Gallery, with modern Russian paintings (shown on application).

At the end of the Sadóvaya is the New Bazaar Square (Pl. C, 4), where a market is held daily. The Market Hall is overshadowed by a massive building of 1847, the large Sryétenskaya or Novobasárnaya Church (Pl. 18), with five domes.

We return by Deribássovskaya to the Theatre Square. The handsome Town Theatre (Pl. 29; D, 5) was erected by the Viennese architects Fellner and Hellmer (1887).

A few paces to the W. of Theatre Square, at the S. end of the Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. 566), rises the Town Hall (Dúma; Pl. 7, D, E, 5), an edifice in the Greek style, with a portico of twelve columns. Adjacent are a fountain with a bronze bust of the poet Alexander Púshkin (1799–1837; p. 570) and a cannon from the British man-of-war ‘Tiger’, sunk in 1854.

In the square in front of the Dúma is the Museum of Antiquities (Pl. 3; D, 5), with objects found at the Greek colonies on the Black Sea.

From the Dúma the Púshkinskaya leads to the Main Railway Station (p. 564). To the left, at the corner of the Kondratenko Street, is the Exchange (Pl. 5; D, 6), a tasteful erection by Bernadazzi (1899).

To the E. of the E. end of the Kondratenko Street, above the Quarantine Harbour (p. 566), lies the Alexander Park (Pl. E, 5, 6; restaurant, see p. 565), a popular resort where open-air concerts take place in summer in favourable weather. The Monument of Alexander II., a tall column of labradorite, commemorates a visit of that monarch in 1875. About ½ M. farther out is Lansherón, a sea-bathing place (tramway, see p. 565).

From Lansherón a series of villas (datshas) and private gardens extends along the sea to the Little Fountain (tramway), with a garden-restaurant (band) and good sea-bathing, Arkadia (tramway; band), the Middle Fountain (steam-tramway, see p. 565; excellent beach), and the Great Fountain (reached from the terminus of the steam-tramway by cab, 20–30 cop.), a village with the extensive Uspénskiy Monastery, the goal of an annual pilgrimage. These three villages take their name from a spring which once supplied Odessa with water.

Still farther to the S. is the German colony of Lustdorf or Olgino, with vineyards and frequented sea-baths (tramway from the Great Fountain in 20 min., fare 20 cop.; cab 1½–2 roub.).

See also Baedeker’s Russland or Baedeker’s Russie (not yet published in English).

84. From Odessa to Batum.

723 M. Steamship Lines (agents at Odessa, see p. 565; at Batum, see p. 570). 1. North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Odessa to Batum (and Constantinople) every fourth Monday. Passengers between the two Russian ports are not carried. Fares from Constantinople as at p. 571.—2. Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. (direct Crimea and Caucasus Line) from Odessa to Batum every Mon. aft. or even. (from Batum every Sun. night), viâ Sebastopol, Yalta, Feodóssiya, and Novorossysk, in 4 days (1st cl. 41¾ roub.).

Odessa, see p. 564. The Lloyd Steamers pursue a S.E. course, straight towards Cape Chersonese (see p. 569).

The flat Cape Tarkhankut (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the Crimea (p. xxxiv) or Tauric Peninsula (the ancient Chersonesus Taurica), remains out of sight. On the S.E. the Yaila Mts., extending to the Chatyr-Dagh (4990 ft.), gradually come into view, along with the hilly district in front of them sloping thence to the rolling steppes in the N. part of the Crimea.

In clear weather we may descry to the E. Cape Constantine, the N. horn of the Bay of Sebastopol (Russ. Sevastópol), the best natural harbour of the Black Sea, measuring about 4½ M. from side to side. The higher parts of the town of Sebastopol, the chief naval harbour of S. Russia, famous for its siege (1854–5) during the Crimean War, also are visible.

As soon as we have rounded the flat Cape Chersonese (lighthouse), the S.W. extremity of the Crimea, we see before us the S. coast of the peninsula, rising gradually to the precipices of Cape Aiya.

To the left rises Cape Fiolente, the Parthenium of the ancients, the supposed site of the sanctuary of Artemis in which Iphigenia served as priestess. Beyond it, above the steep and wooded shore, is St. George’s Monastery, founded in 988.

In the distance, between bare rocks on either hand, is the narrow entrance to the Bay of Balaclava, supposed to correspond with Homer’s description of the Læstrygonian Bay (Odyss. X, 86–94). The picturesque little town of Balaclava, the ancient Symbolon Portus and the seat in the middle ages of the Genoese colony of Cémbalo, was the chief base of the British army in the Crimean war, famed for the gallant charge of the Light Brigade (25th Oct., 1854), commemorated by Tennyson.

Beyond Cape Aiya (1919 ft.), which in clear weather is visible for some 68 M., opens the Bay of Laspi, enclosed by the W. spurs of the Yaila Mts.

When abreast of Cape Sarýtsh (lighthouse), the S. point of the Crimea, below the Church of Foros and the Baidar Gate (1634 ft.; celebrated for its view), the Lloyd vessels pursue an E.S.E. course direct for Batum. The picturesque and exuberantly fertile coast of the so-called Russian Riviera lies to our left, but all that we can descry are the precipitous Cape Kikeneïs, the range of the Ai-Petri (4046 ft.), and the distant Cape Ai-Todór (see below).

The Russian Steamer calls first at Sebastopol (p. 568) and beyond Cape Sarýtsh steers near the coast. The chief points visible are Mshátka, Miláss (recognizable by its four towers), Cape Kikeneïs (see above), and the lofty and abrupt cliff of Divo, below Lemény. We soon sight the superb château of Alúpka (p. 570), with Mt. Ai-Petri, the white Moorish château of Julber, and Cape Ai-Todór, with the villa of Schwalbennest.

Beyond the headland Yálta is disclosed to view. In the distance to the N.E. rises Ayu-Dagh (‘bear hill’; 1854 ft.). We pass Oreánda and Livadia (p. 570) and land at the mole of—

Yálta.—Hotels. *Rossíya (Pl. a), R. from 2–3, B. ¾, D. 1¼ roub.; Fránziya (Pl. c). rather cheaper; Hôt. de Yalta (Pl. d), in a high site, good, R. from 1½ roub., D. from 80 cop. to 1 roub.; Márino (Pl. i); Oreánda; Métropole; Grand-Hôtel (Pl. f), etc.—Restaurant in the public gardens D. ½–1 roub.

Cabs (good ‘phaetons’ and pair). Drive in the town (also to or from harbour) 20–50 cop. (luggage 10 cop.); hour 70, each addit. ½ hr. 30 cop.—Post & Telegraph Office, at the Oreánda Hotel (see above).—Sea Baths (10–15 cop.), on the Nábereshnaya (stony beach).—The Yalta section of the Club Alpin de Crimée arranges, from April to Oct., drives (fare 1½ roub.) and walks in the environs. In the club-house (Pl. 3; with museum and meteorological station), beside the police-bridge, the programme for the week may be consulted.

Yálta or Jálta, the capital of a district, with 20,000 inhab., most picturesquely situated in a bay formed by the spurs of the abrupt Yaila Mts. (p. 568), is the most fashionable watering-place in the Crimea (mean annual temperature 57° Fahr.). The Nábereshnaya or Marine Esplanade and the adjacent shady town-garden (20 cop.) are the chief promenades.

To the E. of Yalta, and reached in 1 hr. by the upper road to Gursuff (see below), is the (3 M.) beautiful park of *Lower Massándra (carr. there and back 1 roub. 60 cop.; adm. by season-tickets which are issued free of charge at the director’s office on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5). Adjacent, on the N.E., is Upper Massándra, with a small imperial château.—To the E. of Lower Massándra are the vineyards of Maharátsh and (4½ M. from Yalta) Nikíta, with an interesting acclimatization-garden, founded in 1812.

In beautiful grounds about 2 M. to the S.W. of Yalta are the two imperial palaces of Livádia. Adm. on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5, on showing one’s passport at the director’s office. From the park of Livadia we may next go by the ‘Lower Road’ to the adjoining park of Oreánda (carr. from Yalta 3 roub. 20 cop.), which likewise is imperial property. Since it was burned in 1882 the castle has remained a ruin. A good view is obtained from the Krestóvaya Gorá (614 ft.) or ‘Hill of the Holy Cross’.

About 11 M. to the S.W. of Yalta (carr. 3 roub. 20 cop.; also local steamers), on the coast, lies Alúpka, with a beautiful park and a château in the Gothic-Moorish style, built by Blore in 1837 for Prince Vorontsóv (p. 566).—About 9 M. to the N.E. of Yalta is Gursuff (carr. 5 roub. 60 cop.; also local steamers), in a charming situation, with good sea-baths. In the former château of the Duc de Richelieu Púshkin (p. 567) lived in 1820.

Beyond Yalta the direct Russian steamers continue their voyage along the coast, which farther on becomes increasingly level, to Feodossiya or Theodosia (p. xxxiv), the chief commercial port of the Crimea. Hence they steer to the S.E., leaving the Straits of Kertch (see below) to the left, to the beautifully situated seaport of Novorossysk. From the last port to Batum the steamers follow a similar course to that of the Lloyd Steamers described below.

See also Baedeker’s Russland or Russie (no English edition).

The Lloyd Steamer now makes for the open sea, leaving the Straits of Kertch or Yeníkale (the ancient Cimmerian Bosporus), the entrance to the Sea of Azov (p. 561), far to port (left).

The S.W. slope of the Great Caucasus, the mighty frontier-wall between Europe and Asia, which has been almost uninhabited since the emigration of the Circassians in 1865, does not become visible until we are abreast of Gagry. When we are nearly opposite the mouth of the Ingúr we may descry in clear weather the two snowy domes of the volcanic Elbruz, or, as it is sometimes called, Elburz (18,468 ft.), the chief height of the Central Caucasus.

As the boat holds its course in the direction of Batum the Ajara Mts. (Lazistan, p. 571), belonging to the Little Caucasus (‘Armenian Highlands’) rise to the E., separated from the Great Caucasus by the ancient land of Colchis, the marshy plain of the Rion (the ancient Phasis). The Harbour of Batum, opening to the N., is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. storms of winter by Cape Batum (lighthouse).

Batum.—Arrival. All the steamers are moored alongside the quay; hand baggage 5 cop., heavy luggage 10 cop. each package.

Hotels. Fránziya, Micháilovskaya; Impérial, Kutaïskaya, R. 1½–10, B. ½ roub.; Oriental, Nábereshnaya.—Post & Telegraph Office, Maríinsky Prospekt.—Cab from harbour or station to town 40, drive 25, hour 60 cop.

Consuls. British, P. W. J. Stevens.—United States, A. Heingartner; vice-consul, E. Mattievich.

Steamboat Agents. North German Lloyd, Schutz & Zimmermann; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Arkadaksky; Austrian Lloyd, Marcetich; Messageries Maritimes, De Cortenze; Società Nazionale, Valazzi; N. Paquet & Co., Victor d’Arnaud.

Batum, a town of ca. 30,000 inhab., was the ancient Bathys, a place of little importance. In modern times, under the name of Bathumi, it was a Turkish frontier-fortress down to 1878. By the terms of the Berlin Congress of that year it passed to Russia (along with Kars), and it is now the strongly-fortified capital of the Russian province of its own name. The town, which has the most important harbour on the E. coast of the Black Sea, owes its present prosperity to the construction of the railway to Bakú, on the Caspian Sea. The staples of its trade are petroleum products (annual exports 1¼ million tons), manganese ore, liquorice, silk-cocoons, and wool. Along the beach runs the Boulevard, above which to the S. rises the Alexander Névsky Cathedral, built in 1903. About ¾ M. to the S. lies the Railway Station, and near by is a Roman Catholic Church. In the W. part of the town, on Lake Nurie, is the Alexander Park, with subtropical vegetation.

To the S.W. of the town, beyond Cape Batum, is the marshy and fever-stricken Delta of the Chorokh.

See also Baedeker’s Russland or Russie (no English edition).

85. From Batum to Constantinople.

726 M. Steamship Lines (agents at Batum, see p. 570; at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539). 1. North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Batum every alternate Sat., in 4 days, viâ Trebizond, Samsun, and (if required) Ineboli (fare 80 or 56 marks).—2. Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. (Anatolian line), from Batum every other Thurs. night (from Constantinople Frid. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Ordu, Samsun, Sinope, and Ineboli, in 6½ days (fare 112 or 84 fr., food extra).—3. Austrian Lloyd, from Batum Frid. midnight (from Constantinople Sat. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 5½ days (fare 130; 2nd class, food extra, 48 fr.).—4. Messageries Maritimes, from Batum every second Wed. evening (from Constantinople Mon.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—5. N. Paquet & Co., from Batum every second Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—6. Società Nazionale (Line IX), from Batum every other Tues. even, (from Constantinople Thurs. aft.) viâ Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 4½–5 days (fares 93 fr. 70, 62 fr. 50 c.).

Most of the Austrian, French, and Italian vessels are small old cargo-boats. The S. coast of the Black Sea is often visited by dangerous tempests, especially in winter.—For Turkish money, see p. 536.

Batum, see p. 570. Long after starting we continue to enjoy, in clear weather, a grand *View of the snow-clad central chain of the Great Caucasus (p. 570). The rugged mountains of the Lazistan, covered with snow in winter, become visible as far as the Kolat Dagh (about 7540 ft.) and are equally impressive. There are numerous small towns on the coast, but the only one called at by the steamers is Rizeh (the ancient Rhizūs), the first seaport beyond the Turkish frontier, which is almost hidden by a forest of fruit-trees.

We next pass the headland Erekli Burnu. As we near Trebizond we see the delta of the brook Piksit Su or Matshka (the ancient Pyxites), where, according to a vague tradition, the ten thousand Greeks under Xenophon encamped in 400 B.C. on their retreat from Persia (comp. pp. 574, 576).

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Trebizond.—Arrival. The landing, which takes place at the pier adjoining the custom-house (Pl. C, 1), is often attended by vexatious delays and also, if there is a strong wind blowing from the sea, by considerable difficulty.

Hotels. Pens. Marengo (Pl. b; B, 1), on the E. hill, with fine views, well spoken of; Hôt. Suisse (Pl. a; B, 1), on the Hurriyet Meïdan; pens. in both 6–10 fr.

Austrian Post Office (Pl. B, 1), near the Hurriyet Meïdan.—Steamboat Agents, at the harbour.—Banks. Banque Ottomane (p. 539); Banque d’Athènes.

Consulates. British (Pl. 15; B, 2): consul, H. Z. Longworth.—United States (Pl. 16; B, 2): consul, M. A. Jewett; vice-consul, I. Montesanto.

Trebizond, the Turkish Tirabson or Tarábosan, the seat of the governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsun, the most important seaport on the N. coast of Asia Minor. It contains 35,000 inhab., including Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Persians, and Lazis, who speak a dialect resembling the languages of the S. Caucasus. Trapezūs, founded by Milesians from Sinope (7th cent. B.C.?), was named after the ‘table’-shaped (‘trápeza’) castle-hill (p. 573). Next to the mother-city it was the most important Greek colony in what afterwards became the kingdom of Pontus (p. 575), and was the seat of a governor in the Byzantine period. After the conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (p. 542) it became the capital of the small Greek empire of the Comneni, the last of whom, David Comnenus, was overthrown by Mohammed II. (p. 542) in 1461.

Trebizond is picturesquely situated on three low ridges at the N. base of Boz Tepeh (800 ft.), an outlier of the mountains extending thence to the S. to the Kolat Dagh (p. 571). The small harbour facilitates trade with the towns of the hinterland (e. g. Gümüshkhaneh), but it is only partly protected against sea-winds by the pier at Kalmek Point and a new breakwater at the headland of Eleusa. Notwithstanding the competition of Batum and the Trans-Caucasian railway Trebizond still carries on a considerable camel-caravan traffic with the Armenian highlands (Erzerum) and N. Persia (Tabriz).

The trade and industry of Trebizond are concentrated in the new town on the East Hill, above the harbour. Beyond Kalmek Point, on which are a battery, a lighthouse, and the Güzel Seraï (Pl. B, C, 1; now artillery-barracks), lies the Greek quarter, which encloses the Frank quarter, the seat of the European wholesale merchants. On a small promontory projecting from the N. shore rises the Greek Cathedral (Pl. 6; B, 1).

A little to the N. of the Hurriyet Meïdan, with its pleasure-grounds (Pl. 12; B, 1), runs one of the main streets leading to the W. to the Bazaars (Pl. A, B, 1), or market quarter, which presents a lively scene, especially in the early morning. The most interesting stalls are those of the coppersmiths and of the native goldsmiths, whose works in gold and silver filigree are sold by weight.