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The Mediterranean

A scene of striking beauty is revealed as we steam into the *Bay of Palermo, which opens towards the E., between Monte Pellegrino and the smaller pointed headland of Monte Catalfano (1237 ft.), backed by a circus of grand mountains, Monte Cuccio (3448 ft.), Monte Grifone (2550 ft.), and others. After passing between the harbour piers, the Antemurale on the S. and the Molo (lighthouse) on the N., we observe on the left the shallow old harbour of La Cala (p. 149) with the ruined fort of Castellammare.

Palermo.—Arrival. The steamers from Naples are berthed at the new Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5); in the case of the others landing or embarkation is effected by boat (60 c.; with baggage 1 fr.). The custom-house examination is slight. Porter (facchino) for hand-bag 10, trunk 50 c.—From the pier to the town ca. ¾ M. (tramway No. 1, see below). Omnibuses or motor-cars from the hotels await steamers at the pier. Cabs, see below.

Hotels (most frequented Feb.-April). *Villa Igiea, ¼ hr. to the N. of the quay, at the Acquasanta terminus of tramways Nos. 1 & 7, near the sea, with park, casino, and fine view, R. from 8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, omn. 3 fr.; *Excelsior Palace (Pl. e; G, 2), Via della Libertà, near the Giardino Inglese, good restaur., R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; *Hôt. des Palmes (Pl. a; E, 3), Via Stabile 103, R. 4–12, B. 1½, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; three houses of the first class, closed in summer. The following, also of the first class, are open throughout the year. *Hôt. de France (Pl. c; C, 5), near the Giardino Garibaldi, R. 4–10, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.; *Trinacria (Pl. b; C, 5), with sea view, entrance in Via Butera, R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.; Savoy (Pl. g; E, 3), Via Cavour, R. from 3, D. 4½, omn. 1–1½ fr.; Panormus (Pl. k; E, 3, 4), Via Michele Amari 11, R. from 2½, B. 1¼, déj. 2½, D. 3½ fr.—Less pretending (open all the year round): Milano (Pl. f; F, 3), Via Emerico Amari 114, R. from 3½, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; Albergo Vittoria (Pl. h; D, 4), Via Bandiera 31, and Central (Pl. d; C, 3), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 343, R. from 2 fr., both with restaurant; Patria (Pl. i; B, 4), Via Alloro 96 (view from roof-terrace), Cavour, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 330, both hôtels garnis (R. from 1½ fr.).

Restaurants (Italian cooking; à la carte). Gran Caffè Nuovo, in the Teatro Biondo (Pl. C, 4), Restaurant de Paris, Via Maqueda 200, both good. Plainer: Vanini, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 405; Ristorante Napoli, same street, No. 265; Ristorante Bologni, same street, No. 381.

Cafés (rarely frequented in the morning). Caffè del Teatro Massimo (p. 151); Trinacria, Quattro Canti di Campagna (Pl. E, 3); Caflisch, Via Maqueda 250; Café Italia, Via Cavour.—English Tea Rooms, Piazza Marina 41.—Beer. Gran Caffè Nuovo (see above); Trinacria (see above); Gambrinus, Teatro Massimo.

Cabs. For 1–4 pers., within Via Lincoln, Corso Tukery, Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, and Piazza Ucciardone, per drive 50 c., from midnight to dawn 1 fr.; to outer quarters, drive under ½ hr., also to the quay or the railway-stations 1 fr.; from midnight to dawn 1 fr. 50 c.: one hour 1 fr. 80 c., each addit. ¼ hr. 40 c.—Hand-bag 20, trunk 40 c.—Driving in the inner city on Good Friday prohibited.—For long drives a bargain should be made; thus, to Monreale (p. 152), with stay of 1½ hr., 7–8 (or out of season 4–6) fr.

Tramways (within the city 10, transfer 15 c.). Among the chief are: 1. From Piazza Marina (Pl. C, 5) to Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. E, F, 4), Piazza Ucciardone (Pl. G, 4), and Acquasanta (Villa Igiea).—4. From Porta Maqueda (Pl. D, E, 3), to Via Francesco Crispi, Piazza Ucciardone, and Falde (p. 151).—7. From Piazza Marina to Via Lincoln (Pl. B, A, 6–4; Central Station), Corso Tukery, Piazza dell’ Indipendenza (Pl. B, 1), Corso Alberto Amedeo (Pl. B-D, 1), Politeama Garibaldi (Pl. F, 3), and Acquasanta (Villa Igiea).—9. From Piazza Bologni (Pl. C, 3) to Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, Rocca (p. 152), and Monreale (p. 152), every ½ hr., in 35 min.; fare 40 (back 30) c.—Above Rocca (gradient ca. 1 in 8) there is a funicular section 1100 yds. long.

Post Office. (Pl. C, 3), Piazza Bologni.—Telegraph. Office (Pl. C, 3), Via Maqueda 222; also in the Piazza Marina.

Steamboat Lines. Società Nazionale, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 96, corner of Piazza Marina; Ferrovie dello Stato (steamer service), J. & V. Florio, Via Roma; Navigation Mixte and White Star, A. Tagliavia, same street, No. 51; Austro-American (p. 425), A. Lauria; Cunard, Piazza Marina 13; Anchor Line, E. G. Orr (see below).

Banks. Banca Commerciale, d’Italia, and di Sicilia, all in Corso Vittorio Emanuele.—Thos. Cook & Son, same street, No. 155.

Consuls. British, R. G. Macbean, Via Francesco Crispi; vice-consul, W. A. Morrison.—United States, H. De Soto, Piazza Castelnuovo 44.—Lloyd’s Agent, E. G. Orr, Piazza Marina.

English Church. Holy Cross (‘Anglicana’; Pl. E, 3, 4), Via Stabile; services every Sun. at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. in winter.

One Day and a Half is the minimum time for a glance at the sights. 1st. In the forenoon, Cappella Palatina (p. 149), San Giovanni degli Eremiti (p. 150); Cathedral (p. 149), Martorana (p. 150), Museum (p. 150); in the afternoon (best in the early morning in summer), Monte Pellegrino (p. 151); in summer, towards evening, Villa Giulia and the Marina (p. 151).—2nd. In the forenoon, Monreale (p. 152).

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, with 250,000 inhab., the seat of an archbishop and a university, lies on the beautiful bay named after it, in the midst of the Conca d’Oro, a fertile plain artificially watered, and yielding oranges, lemons, mandarins, and other fruits in profusion. Palermo is also the chief seaport in the island, whence fruit, wine, sumach, and the sulphur of S. Sicily (79% of the world’s consumption) are largely exported.

The city, the Panormus of antiquity, began its career as a Phœnician colony; it next became the capital of the island under the Carthaginian domination, but was conquered by the Romans in 254 B. C. Next came the Ostrogoths and the Byzantines, who were succeeded by the Aglabides and Fatimites (p. 323), who again made the town the capital of the island under the name of Balerm, and opened up Sicily to Moorish culture. When Palermo became the residence of its Norman conquerors (1072–1194) they erected castles and churches, partly employing Arabian architects and artificers, whose work shows a charming blend of Byzantine, Arabian, and Oriental features. Later, as the favourite seat of the Hohenstaufen (1194–1266), Palermo attained the zenith of its glory. The old town, however, owes its architectural character to the Spanish viceroys (16–17th cent.), who chose it as their residence in spite of the protests of Messina. Since the union of Sicily with the kingdom of Italy (1860) there has been a great revival of building enterprise, with the result that broad streets and villa-suburbs have sprung up, particularly on the N. side of the old town.

From the Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5) we enter the old town by the Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. F, E, 4; tramway No. 1, see p. 147), leading to the old Porta San Giorgio (Pl. E, 4). The Via Cavour diverges here to the right to the old Porta Maqueda (p. 151); we turn to the left, cross the Piazza del Castello (Pl. D, 5), pass the old Fort Castellammare, and skirt the Cala (p. 147), or old harbour, a little beyond which is the—

Piazza Marina (Pl. C, 5), where the beautiful *Giardino Garibaldi recalls the tropics with its luxuriant vegetation.

A little to the N.E. of the Giardino is the Porta Felice (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. 151), from which to the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. 150), over 1 M. distant, runs the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, intersecting the whole of the old town. This long street owes its present form to Don Pedro de Toledo (p. 138), but having been for centuries the route from the harbour to the castle, it has retained its old popular name of Cássaro (from the Arabic kasr, castle).

At the Quattro Canti (Pl. C, 3), the old business centre of the city, the Corso is crossed by the Via Maqueda (Pl. A-D, 4, 3; p. 151), begun by the viceroy Marqués de Villena in 1609, and now a second important artery of the old town.

The Corso leads to the Piazza del Duomo, on the N. side of which rises the—

*Cathedral (Pl. C, 2), dedicated to the Assunta, on the site of an older church which the Moors had converted into a mosque. The original Romanesque building, erected by Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterio Offamilio) after 1185, has been entirely transformed in the course of centuries, with the exception of the lower part of the clock-tower and the external decoration of the choir niche. The handsome W. façade with the two towers which date from 1300–59, the incongruous dome, and the modernized internal decorations are the work of the Florentine Fern. Fuga (1781–1801). The right aisle, on the left of the S. portal, contains the *Monuments of Norman and Hohenstaufen monarchs.

At the S.W. end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, beyond the Piazza della Vittoria (Pl. B, 2), on a slight eminence, which from the earliest times has been the site of the castle, rises the—

Palazzo Reale (Pl. B, 1), which still bears traces of its original fortified character, although the foundation walls alone are Arabian, and the central tower with the pointed arch (Santa Ninfa, p. 150) is the only relic of the Norman part of the building.

The last door on the left, opposite the monument of Philip V., leads into the palace-yard (sticks and umbrellas are left with the porter; guide ½ fr., but quite unnecessary). We ascend the stairs to the left, on the first floor turn to the right, and pass through the arcaded passage to the—

**Cappella Palatina, a perfect gem of mediæval art, built by king Roger II. in 1132–40 in the Arabic-Norman style (adm. daily 7 to 10.30 free; later, week-days till 4, Sun. till 3, fee; best light in the morning). In the interior the chapel is a basilica with two aisles; including the choir and apse it is 36 yds. long and 14 yds. in breadth. The Arabian pointed arches are borne by ten antique columns; the central dome, 59 ft. high, is adorned with Greek and Latin inscriptions. The beautiful Arabian timber ceiling in the nave, with its Cufic (early Arabic) inscription, is joined to the walls by stalactite vaulting. All the walls are incrusted with glass-mosaics on a gold ground.

The palace-tower, Santa Ninfa, now an observatory, is famed for the delightful panorama it affords (fee ½–1 fr.; not always accessible). The top of the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1), close by, also overlooks the city and the Conca d’Oro.

Descending the steps by the monument of Philip V., we now follow the Via del Bastione a Porta di Castro and the Via dei Benedettini to the ruined church of *San Giovanni degli Eremiti (Pl. A, B, 1, 2; adm. by the garden-gate; fee 25 c.). The interior is in the form of a so-called Egyptian cross (p. 376), with three apses. The nave is divided into two squares by a pointed arch. Quite an Oriental effect is produced by the five unadorned domes, which are best viewed from the pretty cloisters (now a garden). Adjoining the S. side of the church is a dilapidated little mosque.

We now return to the Quattro Canti (p. 149) and turn to the right into the Via Maqueda. Here, immediately on the right, is the University (Pl. C, 3); on the left is the Palazzo di Città or Municipio. Just beyond the latter is the small Piazza Bellini, whence steps ascend to two old Norman churches (adm. daily 9–4, 1 fr.; Sun. free). The smaller, San Cataldo, of 1161, is crowned with Arabian pinnacles. Still more curious is the larger church—

*La Martorana (Pl. B, C, 4), named after its founder, the Greek admiral of Roger I. (1143), and known also as Santa Maria dell’ Ammiraglio, a Byzantine edifice with Norman additions, now suitably restored. The two lower stories of the clock-tower are part of the original church.

From the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a little to the E. of the Quattro Canti, runs the new Via Roma (Pl. C, D, 4) to the N.N.W. to the Piazza San Domenico. On the E. side of this piazza rises the large church of San Domenico (Pl. D, 4), containing monuments to many eminent Sicilians.—Behind the church, in the Via Bambinai, is the Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario (keys at No. 16, adjacent), containing a fine Madonna del Rosario by A. van Dyck.

From the Piazza San Domenico the Via Monteleone leads to the N.W. to the Piazza dell’ Olivella, where an old monastery on the right contains the—

Museo Nazionale (Pl. D, 3; week-days 10–3, 1 fr.; Sun. 11–3, free, but not fully shown; closed on high festivals, on the last three days of the Carnival, and in Holy Week).

Ground Floor. From the Primo Cortile, containing mediæval and Renaissance portals, sculptures, and inscriptions, we enter the Secondo Cortile (once the cloisters), where ancient sculptures and inscriptions are exhibited, on the left Sicilian, on the right those of foreign or uncertain origin.

From the vestibule, beyond the cloisters, we pass through a small room, containing two Phœnician sarcophagi found near Palermo, to the Sala di Panormo, with mosaics and inscriptions from Panormus, and opposite to it the Sala del Fauno, so named from the fine satyr in the style of Praxiteles which it contains.

The adjoining Sala di Selinunte contains the celebrated *Metopes of Selinus (p. 154). On the left, between parts of the ponderous entablature of the oldest temple, are three rude and primitive metopes of the beginning of the 6th cent. B. C. (quadriga, beheading of Medusa, Hercules and the Cercopes); then the lower halves of two metopes, dating from about the middle of the 6th cent. (battle of the gods and the giants); on the back-wall four metopes of the early 5th cent., a period just before the prime of Greek art (Hercules slaying the queen of the Amazons, Hera unveiling herself before Zeus, Actæon torn to pieces by the dogs of Artemis, Athene slaying a giant).

The stairs in the forecourt ascend to the—

First Floor. The steps to the left lead to the Sala Arăba, which contains Arabian and Arab-Norman antiquities found in Sicily (door-frame from the Martorana monastery, earthenware vase from Mazzara) and early Arabian objects from Cairo. The Corridoio di Ponente contains painted female figures (4th–3rd cent. B. C.), similar to the terracottas of Tanagra. Beyond the cloisters is the room of the ancient bronzes, among which we note a fountain-group of Hercules and the Cerynæan hind, from Pompeii, and a ram marvellously lifelike. Next come two rooms on the left with Greek vases. From the corridor on the opposite side we enter the Gabinetto di Numismatica, an admirable collection of the ancient coins of Sicily and of antique trinkets. The last room contains gorgeous church vestments.

On the Second Floor is the Gallery of Pictures, chiefly by Sicilian masters (Pietro Novelli and others); a small winged altar-piece by Jan Mabuse (1501?), a gem of Netherlandish art, should, however, be noted.

From the Museum the Via della Bara leads to the W. to the Piazza Giuseppe Verdi (Pl. D, 3), in which rises the Teatro Massimo or Vittorio Emanuele, the largest in Italy.—At the N. end of the Via Maqueda (p. 149) is the old Porta Maqueda (Pl. D, E, 3), whence the Via Ruggiero Settimo leads into the broad—

Via della Libertà (Pl. F, G, 3, 2), a fashionable evening promenade, ending at the pretty Giardino Inglese (Pl. G, H, 2).

The Marina, officially named Foro Umberto Primo (Pl. C, B, 6), which begins at the Porta Felice (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. 149), near the harbour, affords a superb walk and is a favourite resort on summer evenings after 6 (music at 9).

At the S. end of the Marina lies the *Villa Giulia or Flora (Pl. A, B, 6), one of the most beautiful public gardens in Italy, where the blossoming trees diffuse their fragrance in spring far around. It is adjoined on the W. by the *Botanic Garden (Pl. A, B, 6; gardener 25–50 c.), almost vying with the famous Jardin d’Essai at Algiers (p. 232).

A visit to *Monte Pellegrino (1968 ft.), the ancient Heirkte, a bare limestone hill to the N. of Palermo, should not be omitted in clear weather. (Tramway No. 4 to Falde, near the S. foot of the hill, see p. 147; donkey, ordered in the town beforehand, with attendant, 4 fr.)

The zigzag path, visible from the town, ascends in about 1½ hr. from the Punta di Bersaglio, 5 min. to the N. of Falde, to the Grotto of St. Rosalia (d. about 1170), which has been well described by Goethe. Near it are a cottage, where bread and wine may be obtained (bargaining advisable), and the restaurant Argos-Eden (open only on Sun.).

A steep footpath ascends thence in ½ hr. to the Telégrafo, the signal-station on the summit, where we enjoy a *View of the beautiful basin of Palermo, of the indented N. coast of Sicily, and of the Lipari Islands (p. 146). To the E., beyond the Madoníe (p. 146) and the distant Nebrodian Mts., towers Mt. Ætna.

Monreale (tramway No. 9 and carr., see pp. 147, 148) is reached from the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. 150) by the Corso Calatafími. Beyond (3 M.) La Rocca the road ascends to the (¾ hr.) top of the ‘royal hill’ (1148 ft.). The town of Monreale (Restaur. Savoy, Eden; pop. 24,000) owes its origin to a Benedictine abbey, founded by William II. (1174), and to the famous cathedral (1174–89) built here as the seat of the second archbishopric in the island.

The **Cathedral is a Norman Romanesque basilica consisting of nave, aisles, and three apses, 335 ft. long and 131 ft. wide. Externally the choir end of the church, with its Arabian pointed arches and mosaic decoration, is particularly fine. The magnificent main portal, flanked in northern style with two square towers, has two admirable bronze doors by ‘Bonannus Civis Pisanus’ (1186). The doors of the side-portal are by Barisano. The pointed arches of the nave rest on granite columns, and all the walls are lavishly decorated with glass mosaics. The roof (172 steps; verger, who shows the chapels also, 50–75 c.) commands a splendid view.

Of the Benedictine monastery nothing is now left except the *Cloisters, the pointed arches of which are adorned with mosaics and borne by 216 columns in pairs, remarkable for the variety of their capitals and for the inlaid ornamentation of their shafts (date ca. 1200). Entrance (1 fr.) from the Piazza del Duomo by the side-door to the left. The custodian shows also the garden of the monastery, where we have a charming view of Palermo.

27. From Naples to Syracuse (Malta, Tunis, Tripoli) viâ Messina and Catania.

From Naples to Messina (204 M.). 1. Steamers of the Ferrovie dello Stato (Line D), leave Naples Sun. evening, arr. at Messina Mon. morning (at Reggio at noon; returning from Reggio same afternoon and from Messina same evening); fares 22 fr. 85, 14 fr. 70 c.—2. Società Nazionale: a. Line XX (Linea Circolare, see pp. 134, 142), dep. from Naples Sat. aft., arr. at Messina Sun. morning (returning from Messina Wed. aft.); b. Line V (Genoa-Alexandria; p. 134), dep. from Naples Thurs. aft., arr. at Messina Frid. morning (returning from Messina Sun. evening); fares by these two lines 22 fr. 85, 14 fr. 70 c.; c. Lines X & XI, fortnightly from Naples viâ Palermo (comp. p. 146) to Messina (fares 50 fr. 10, 33 fr. 40 c.).

From Naples to Catania (258 M.), the Linea Circolare (see below); also the North German Lloyd (Mediterranean-Levant; RR. 23, 24) every second Mon. (from Catania Tues.) in 16 hrs.; fare 36 or 24 marks.

From Messina to Syracuse (93 M.), only the Linea Circolare, dep. from Messina Sun. morning, arr. at Reggio same morning, at Catania Sun. afternoon, at Syracuse Mon. evening (returning from Syracuse Tues. forenoon, from Catania Tues. midnight, and leaving Messina for Naples on Wed. aft.). This steamer may be overtaken at Syracuse if we go by train from Messina to Syracuse (comp. p. 158), in which case there will be time to spend a night at Taormina and see the sunset and sunrise. At Syracuse a drive through the old town should not be omitted (comp. p. 162).

Naples, see p. 135. Steering across the bay towards the Peninsula of Sorrento, we enjoy a delightful retrospect of Mt. Vesuvius and the hills around Naples. Farther on we admire the bold rocky N. coast of the island of Capri.

After 1¼ hr. we pass through the Bocca Piccola, a strait 3 M. in breadth, between the huge cliffs of Lo Capo, the N.E. point of Capri, and the Punta di Campanella (154 ft.; lighthouse), the extremity of the peninsula of Sorrento.

The steamboat now proceeds to the S.S.E. towards the straits of Messina. We have a fine view, in passing, of the Punta Tragara, the S.E. headland of Capri, with the cliffs of the Faraglioni, and of the precipitous Monte Soláro (1920 ft.), the highest hill in the island. On our left lies the broad Gulf of Salerno, with the bays of Positano and Amalfi on the S. side of the peninsula of Sorrento. Conspicuous among the Neapolitan Apennines are the spurs of Monte Stella (3708 ft.) with the Punta Licosa, and of Monte Bulgheria (4016 ft.) with Cape Palinuro (lighthouse).

At length, far off the coast of Calabria, we sight to the S. the volcanic Lipari or Æolian Islands, the ancient Liparaeae or Æoliae. We pass close to Strómboli, the Strongyle of the Greeks, which the ancients regarded as the seat of Æolus, god of the winds. This island culminates in a peak (3038 ft.) with a crater on its N. side, often shrouded in smoke, which is one of the few constantly active volcanoes in Europe. To the S.W. we descry in clear weather Panária (1381 ft.), with its archipelago of smaller islands; Lípari, the largest of the group with Monte Sant’Angelo (1955 ft.); and Vulcano with its ever smoking crater (1638 ft.).

Off Cape Vaticano (lighthouse), a spur of the Calabrian coast-hills between the bays of Sant’Eufemia and Gioia, we sight the N. coast of Sicily, with the Monti Peloritani, the Myconius Mons or Mons Neptuni of the Romans, overtopped by Mt. Ætna (p. 159). On the Calabrian coast, near the strait which was the chief scene of the earthquake of 1908 (p. 156), appear the ruins of the little town of Palmi, halfway up Monte Elia (1900 ft.; a famous point of view), and those of Bagnara and of Scilla with its castle-rock.

The *Voyage through the Straits of Messina (Faro or Stretto di Messina), the Fretum Siculum of antiquity, is one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. Both banks are luxuriantly fertile, shaded with palms, and yielding oranges, pomegranates, and prickly pears. The Calabrian coast, thickly studded with villages, partly in ruins, culminates in Montalto (5424 ft.), the highest peak of the wooded Aspromonte, the ancient Sila, while we survey the Sicilian coast as far as Mt. Ætna. The narrowest part of the straits, 2 M., is between the Punta del Faro (p. 158) and the Punta Pezzo, where they are entered from the Tyrrhenian Sea; between Messina and Villa San Giovanni (p. 159) they are 4½ M., and between Capo di Scaletta (p. 158) and the Punta di Péllaro (p. 159) in the Ionian Sea 8¾ M. wide. The currents which sweep past the headland of Scilla (see above) and cause strong eddies near the harbour of Messina, sometimes augmented by gales, gave rise at a very early period to the legend of Scylla and Charybdis, and Homer has described Scylla as a roaring, all-devouring sea-monster.

We pass the lighthouses of the Punta del Faro and the Punta di Pezzo. Nearing the Harbour of Messina, in a bay formed by a sickle-shaped peninsula, we survey the ruins of the city on the green slopes of the Monti Peloritani (p. 155), whose fissured peaks tower above the sea of houses, once so picturesque.

The central point of the earthquake of Messina (28th Dec., 1908), caused by dislocation or subsidence, was the strait and the W. slope of Aspromonte (p. 155). The first terrific shock at 5 a.m. was followed almost immediately by a great tidal wave caused by a submarine earthquake, and aggravating the calamity in the lower parts of the coast towns and villages. The effects of the earthquake were disastrous also in Calabria as far to the N. as Cosenza, and in Sicily as far to the S. as Pachino (near Cape Passero; p. 411). At Messina the sea-wave rose to a height of 8–9 ft., at Reggio 11½ ft., and at Giardini and Riposto 19½–20 ft. The area of the seismic disturbance extended to the N.E. to Pizzo on the bay of Sant’Eufemia (p. 155), to the E. to the mouth of the Amendolea, near Cape Spartivento and the small town of Ferruzzano, the scene of the earthquake of 1907, and to the S. to Riposto (p. 158). It was estimated that 96,000 persons lost their lives. The value of the buildings destroyed amounted to about 6,500,000l.

Messina.—Arrival. Landing or embarkation 1 fr., or without baggage 50 c., but bargain advisable. Passengers are landed at the quay (Approdo Ferry-boats) adjoining the old Stazione Porto, where, in connection with the express from Naples (steam-ferry from Villa San Giovanni), express trains to Catania and Palermo are in waiting.

Hotels (inquiries should be made as to prices), all with the exception of the Excelsior built of wood and very fair. Gr.-Hôt. Regina Elena, Viale Roosevelt, to the E. of Viale San Martino, in an open situation commanding fine views, to be opened in 1911; Grand-Hôtel, R. 4½–5, B. 1¼ fr.; Excelsior, R. 4–10, B. 1½ fr.; Belvedere, R. 2½–3½ fr., these three in the Viale San Martino; Venezia, Piazza Cavallotti.

Cab per drive 60 (with luggage 80) c., at night 1 fr.; by time, 2 fr. for the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. for each addit. hour; to the Punta del Faro 6–7 fr.

Post Office, Viale San Martino.—Telegraph Office in the piazza of the chief station.

Tourist Agency. Mrs. Pearce, Via Primo Settembre, opposite the railway-station.

British Vice-Consul, J. B. Heynes.

The town of Messina was like Reggio completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1908 (comp. above) and has now only 80,000 inhab. as against 110,000 in 1908. Notwithstanding this catastrophe it was finally decided in autumn 1909 to rebuild the town on its former site. Its harbour, one of the best in the Mediterranean, the third in importance in Sicily, sustained no damage and has even now a very brisk trade (1908: 3589 vessels of 2,598,647 tons burden; 1910: 3148 vessels of 2,050,733 tons burden). The great charm of Messina consists in the beauty of its environs and the views they afford, particularly of the Calabrian coast by evening light.

Originally named Zancle (i.e. sickle), Messina was one of the earliest of the Greek colonies in Sicily, having been founded about 730 B.C. Early in the 5th cent. it was occupied by new colonists from the Messenian Reggio (p. 159) and called Messana. From the earliest times the Messenians took a leading part in almost all the political agitations in the island. In 228 the Mamertines, disbanded mercenaries of Agathocles (p. 163), treacherously seized the town and soon afterwards invoked the aid of the Romans against Hannibal, thus directly giving rise to the first Punic war. For a time Messina enjoyed the special favour of the Romans, and even of Verres, the notorious proconsul, but when it became the naval base of Pompey, in 36 B.C., it was plundered by the soldiers of Octavian. From the period of the Crusades, by which Sicily was partly affected, date the privileges which made Messina a kind of free city and the seat of the Sicilian opposition to foreign domination. The failure of its war against Spain (1672–8), notwithstanding the help of French troops sent by Louis XIV. and two naval victories won by Admiral Duquesne over the Spanish-Dutch fleet under De Ruyter (1676), caused the downfall of the city. Terrible pestilences (the plague in 1740 and cholera in 1854), severe earthquakes (in 1783 and 1894), and the bombardment of the town by the Neapolitan fleet (in 1818) had already seriously injured Messina prior to its recent appalling calamity.

The ruins extend along the shore to the N., from the ‘sickle’ of the harbour and the citadel, to the Giardino a Mare, under whose plane-trees is a Camp for the destitute. The Citadel itself, with its broad moats and its bastions, is still standing.

On the Marina or Corso Vittorio Emanuele (formerly called also La Palazzata) are still seen several palatial façades, interrupted by archways and passages leading to the parallel Via Garibaldi. These are mostly relics of a uniform row of palaces, erected after the earthquake of 1783. Opposite the ruined Palazzo Municipale rises the Neptune Fountain, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael Angelo (1557), with a colossal statue of Neptune between Scylla and Charybdis.

Beyond the Via Garibaldi lies the Piazza del Duomo, with the almost intact Orion Fountain by Montorsoli (1547–51), a point which may be reached direct from the Dogana by the Via Primo Settembre. The Cathedral (la Matrice), founded by the Normans in 1098, is now, with the exception of the choir niche, a mass of ruins. The short Via Università degli Studi led to the S.E. from this piazza to the University, now also destroyed.

A few paces to the S. of the University, in the coast-plain called the Mosella, between the Torrente Portalegni and the Torrente Zaera, and beyond the ruins of the new quarters of the town, lies the main Camp of wooden barracks for the homeless, flanking the Viale San Martino.

A good survey of the ruins, as well as a superb view of the straits, is obtained from the old Forte Castellaccio, which, along with the modern forts, the barracks of the mountain-artillery, and the powder-magazine, has escaped destruction. The way to it (35–40 min.) is up the Torrente Portalegni close to ruined houses; we then skirt the Botanic Garden, cross the Piazza Venti Settembre occupied by barracks, and ascend straight on the steep Via Castellaccio.

The beautiful Excursion to the Punta del Faro (cab, see p. 156; bargain advisable) affords a good survey of the devastated environs. The road leads from the Giardino a Mare (p. 157) and the camp called Villaggio Regina Elena, along the foot of the hills, past luxuriant orchards, and through the ruined fishing-villages of Salvatore dei Greci, Paradiso, and Pace; it then skirts two lagoons, the Pantano Grande, or Lago di Ganzirri, below the ruins of Faro Superiore, a village famed for its wine, and the Pantano Piccolo. On the Punta del Faro or Capo Peloro (once Promontorium Pelorum), the N.E. point of Sicily, are the ruins of the fishing-village of Faro or Torre del Faro, and near it the quite intact Lighthouse (200 steps; keeper 50 c.), which commands a splendid *View of the Lipari Islands and the Calabrian coast as far as Cape Vaticano (comp. p. 155).

From Messina to Syracuse, 115 M., railway in 6¼–7 hrs.; fares 22 fr. 60, 15 fr. 85, 10 fr. 25 c. (journey may be broken once; to Giardini-Taormina, 30½ M., in 1½–2 hrs.). The quick trains start from Messina harbour (comp. p. 156); the morning train, which runs to Syracuse harbour, has a dining-car (déj. 2½ fr.). The train skirts the coast, affording fine views; it crosses the stony channels of several torrenti or flumare, which are generally dry, and pierces a number of headlands by means of tunnels.

7½ M. Galati; 12 M. Scaletta Zanclea, with a picturesque castle, not far from the Capo di Scaletta; 15½ M. Alì, with sulphur-baths. Beyond the (23 M.) beautiful cape of Sant’ Alessio, with a deserted castle, we sight the headland of Taormina.

30½ M. Giardini-Taormina. The village of Giardini lies in a small bay, in a malarious region, 1¼ M. beyond the Capo di Taormina. Taormina is reached by road (3 M.), by a bridle-path, or by a steep footpath. (Diligence 1 fr.; down, 50 c.; carr. according to number of party, 2–5 fr.; heavy luggage had better be left at the station.)

Taormina (673 ft.; San Domenico Palace Hotel, Hotel Castello a Mare, Timeo, International, Villa San Pancrazio, Metropole, all often crowded from 15th Jan. to April and closed in summer; plainer, San Giorgio, Victoria, Naumachia, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., Dr. S. Cacciola-Cartella; pop. 4000), the ancient Tauromenium, a highly picturesque little town, lies on the S.E. spurs of Monte Venere (2900 ft.), and is overlooked by a ruined Castle (1300 ft.) and by the village of Mola (2083 ft.). Its chief attraction is the *Ancient Theatre, at the E. end of the town, which is open daily till dusk. Originally Greek it was entirely remodelled in the Roman period. The spectators’ area (cavea), almost wholly hewn in the rock, is 357 ft. in diameter, and the orchestra (seats for persons of distinction) 115 ft.; the stage (pulpitum) is particularly well preserved. The *View from the site of the theatre is one of the most beautiful in Italy, especially in the morning, when the sun rises above Calabria or, in winter, from the sea, imparting a rosy hue to the snowy peak of Mt. Ætna (p. 159), and gilding the rocky heights beyond the theatre.

Between Taormina and Catania the train crosses a number of the lava-streams descending from Mt. Ætna. On the northmost of these, near Schisò, between the bay of Giardini and the mouth of the Alcántara (Arabic al-kántara, the bridge), lay Naxos, founded in 735 B. C., the oldest Greek colony in Sicily.

41 M. Giarre-Riposto, the station for the country-town of Giarre and for the seaport of Riposto which has a brisk trade in wine. It is also the starting-point of the railway round the W. side of Mt. Ætna (‘Ferrovia Circumetnéa’; 68½ M. in length).

51 M. Acireale (525 ft.; Sicil. Iaci), a wealthy country-town built on several lava-streams and much frequented as a bathing-place on account of its mineral springs (sulphur, salt, and iodine).—Near (55½ M.) Aci Castello we perceive on the left in the sea seven cliffs of columnar basalt, the Scogli de’ Ciclopi or Islands of Cyclops, the rocks which according to Greek myth the blinded Polyphemus hurled after the crafty Ulysses.

59½ M. Catania, see p. 160.

Running inland the train enters the Piana di Catania, the plain of the rivers Simeto and Gornalunga, which is often flooded in winter. This was the region of the Laestrygonian Fields of antiquity, extolled by Cicero as the ‘uberrima Siciliæ pars’, and still the granary of the island. To the right, beyond the Monti Cartina, in a malarious district lies the Lago di Lentini, the largest lake in Sicily. On the left, beyond (77½ M.) Lentini, Greek Leontinoi, is the swampy lagoon Pantano di Carlentini. We pass numerous salt-works and snow-white pyramids of sea-salt.

94 M. Augusta (the ancient Xiphonia), a seaport with 16,000 inhab., lies in a site similar to that of Syracuse, on the N. margin of the Bay of Megara, which is bounded by the headlands of Santa Croce and Santa Panagia (p. 162). 98½ M. Mégara Iblea, not far from the site of the Greek colony of Megara Hyblea. On the left is the Penisola Magnisi, the ancient Thapsos, on the N. side of which lay the fleet of the Athenians during their expedition against Syracuse (p. 163).

The train passes the small bay of Trogilos, where the fleet of Marcellus once anchored (p. 163), and a tunny-fishery (tonnara), runs through a cutting, and skirts the limestone plateau near Cape Santa Panagia. To the left we have a fine view of the sea and the modern town, and at length reach the (115 M.) harbour-station of Syracuse (p. 162).

From Messina to (8 M.) Reggio, a delightful trip, especially by morning light, either by one of the steamers mentioned at p. 154 or by one of the ferry-boats (comp. p. 156). To the left, nearly opposite Messina, is the little town of Villa San Giovanni (p. 155), now in ruins, as are also the villages of Catona, Gallico, Archi, and others farther to the S.

Reggio (Alb. Veneto-Trentino, a temporary hotel-restaurant), before the earthquake of 1908 a town of 35,000 inhab., called Reggio Calabria to distinguish it from Reggio in the Emilia, lies at the W. base of the Aspromonte (p. 155). The ancient Rhegium, originally a Eubœan colony, but occupied by new Messenian settlers in 723 B.C., has been destroyed eight times in war and twice by earthquakes (1783 and 1908). Its last disaster was most appalling in the upper quarters. Along the shore and in the piazzas the survivors are now living in huts. The Strada Reggio Campi above the town offers a beautiful view especially towards evening.

On the Voyage to Catania we enjoy a splendid view of the whole of the straits as far as the Punta del Faro (p. 158), and later of the coast of Calabria from the Punta di Pellaro (p. 155) to the Capo dell’ Armi. On the Sicilian coast rise the Monti Peloritani (p. 155) and the majestic Mt. Ætna (10,958 ft.; Ital. Etna), the highest volcano in Europe, with its countless minor craters and the great Valle del Bove, the remains of the enormous oldest crater, 3 M. broad, bounded by rocky slopes of 1900–3900 ft. in height. The view is specially striking beyond Taormina (p. 158), and we obtain also a good idea of the volume and the direction of the old lava-streams. After sixteen years’ quiescence fresh flows of lava were emitted in the Valle del Bove in 1908 and from the volcano’s S. slope in 1910.

Beyond Acireale (p. 158) and Cape Molini, the N. limit of the broad Bay of Catania, we sight the Scogli de’ Ciclopi (p. 159). As we enter the harbour of Catania we have a fine view of the S. side of Ætna.

Catania.—Arrival. The steamers anchor in the Nuovo Porto (Pl. F, G, 6), whence passengers are rowed (60 c.; with baggage 1 fr.) to the Dogana (Pl. F, G, 5) in the Porto Vecchio, a harbour very much contracted by the lava-stream of 1669 (see below).

Hotels. *Grande Bretagne (Pl. a; F, 4), Via Lincoln, R. 3½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; *Bristol & du Globe (Pl. c; E, 4), Via Santa Maria del Rosario, R. 3½–6 B. 1½ déj. 3, D. 4½ fr.; Centrale Europa (Pl. d; E, 5), cor. of the Piazza del Duomo and Via Raddusa, R. 2½–4, omn. ¾ fr., well spoken of; and others.

Restaurants. Marconi, Piazza Università 15, good; Savoia, Via Marletta 15, behind the Municipio.—Caffè Tricomi, Via Stesicoro Etnea 30; Caffè Amato, Via Stesicoro Etnea 151.—Birreria Svizzera, Via Stesicoro Etnea 139 (déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.), music in the evening, good.

Steamboat Agents. Società Nazionale, Piazza Duca di Genova 18 (Pl. F, 5); North German Lloyd, Munzone, Mineo, & Co., same piazza, No. 3.

British Vice-Consul, W. A. Franck.—Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. E, 4), Via Manzoni.—English Church Services.

Tramways. The chief line is from the railway-station (Stazione Sicula; Pl. H, 4) through Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza del Duomo (Pl. E, 5); then to the N. through Via Stesicoro Etnea to the ‘Ingresso’ of Villa Bellini (Pl. E, 2) and Piazza Gioeni.—Cab 40 (at night 50) c. per drive; first hour 1½ fr. (two-horse 2 fr. 30 c.).

Catania, a wealthy town of 162,000 inhab., the largest in Sicily after Palermo, the seat of a university, a bishop, and a natural science academy, has lately become the chief outlet for the products of the island, especially those of the extremely fertile environs. Katana, founded like Naxos by Eubœans, about 729 B. C., became famous as the home of Charondas, the framer of the earliest Greek code of law (about 640). In the Athenian and Syracusan war (p. 163) it formed the Athenian base of attack. Katana was one of the first places in Sicily occupied by the Romans, and under their sway became one of the most populous towns in the island. In the middle ages it vied for a time with Palermo and Messina as a favourite residence of the Aragon sovereigns. It has repeatedly suffered severely from the eruptions of Mt. Ætna (especially in 122 B. C. and in 1669) and from earthquakes (1169 and 1693), and the present town has been built almost entirely since 1693.

From the Porto Vecchio, into which falls the brook Amenana after passing through the lava under the town, we walk through the Peschería (fish and provision market) to the—