63. From Tunis to Malta (Syracuse).

258 M. Steamers (agents at Tunis, see p. 331; at Malta, see p. 400). 1. Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (Marseilles, Tunis, and Malta line, R. 21) on Wed. (returning Thurs.) afternoon, in 18 hrs. (55 or 40 fr.).—2. Hungarian Adria (R. 22) once a month (cabin, without food, 25 fr.).—Other steamers calling at Malta (P. & O., German Levant cargo-boats, etc.) are mostly bound for distant ports. Embarking and landing, comp. p. 399.—English money is the currency at Malta, but French and Italian gold are in general use.

The steamers follow the Palermo and Naples course (comp. R. 26) as far as Cape Bon, and then steer to the E.S.E. into the Straits of Pantelleria or Sicilian Straits (p. xxx).

The island of Pantelleria (p. 154), which is sighted in clear weather off Cape Bon, is passed by the French steamers at night. The lighthouse of Spadillo (68 ft.), on the N. E. point of the island, long remains in sight. The distant Linosa (610 ft.; ancient Æthusa), with a lighthouse, is visible only in very clear weather.

In the early morning the abrupt coasts of Gozo (p. 403) and Malta (p. 399) appear in the distance. The vessel rounds the island of Gozo, whose lighthouse on the Giurdan Hill (499 ft.) on the N. side, is visible for 27 M.

Beyond Râs el-Kala, the E. point of Gozo, we sight the narrow Straits of Flieghi or Comino Channels, lying between Gozo and Malta, and named alter the island of Comino (p. 397).

On the N. E. coast of Malta, above which soon appears the huge dome of Musta (p. 403), we pass the Baia di Melleha or Mellieha Bay, with the pilgrims’ resort of that name in the background, the St. Paul’s Bay (p. 403), and Salina Bay, with its salt-works.

Next appear the village of St. Julian (San Giuliano), on the bay of that name, and the town of Sliema (p. 400). We then pass Fort Tigné (p. 401; lighthouse) and the entrance to the Marsamuscetto Harbour (p. 399). The entrance of the Grand Harbour, the chief harbour of Valletta, between Fort St. Elmo (p. 400; lighthouse) and Fort Ricasoli (p. 401; lighthouse), is protected against N.E. gales by the new St. Elmo and Ricasoli Breakwaters.—Arrival, comp. p. 399.

---

The Maltese Islands (Isŏle Maltesi), composed of tertiary rock formation, were considered by earlier geographers to belong to Africa, but are now assigned to Europe. They lie halfway between the Straits of Gibraltar and the Suez Canal, on the chief route from the Atlantic to the Levant and to India. The principal island is Malta, with the capital Valletta and many small towns and villages (casal). It is 20 M. long, 9¾ M. broad, and, at its culminating point, 847 ft. in height. The island is much over-peopled. So is the island of Gozo (600 ft.), which measures 10¼ by 5¼ M.; but Comino (248 ft.), 1¼ by 1 M., is uninhabited. The mean temperature of the year is 66½° Fahr., of January 53½° (almost the same as that of Djerba and Tripoli), of August 79½°. Gales, particularly the dreaded N.E. wind (Gregale), often make a winter residence in Malta uncomfortable, while the Sirocco (p. 321), here very moist, is specially trying in autumn.

At first sight the islands seem destitute of vegetation, the fields and gardens being enclosed by lofty walls, while the growth of trees is prevented by the violent winds. By means of laborious tilling and artificial irrigation about a third of the area of the islands has been converted into luxuriantly fertile arable land. After the corn and hay harvest in May and June the land is sown a second time, mostly with cotton, afterwards manufactured in the interior. Among other valuable products are early vegetables and potatoes, which yield two crops in the year. The oranges are excellent but other fruits are scarce. Cattle, poultry, and eggs are largely imported from Turkey, Tunisia, Tripolitania, and Barca (p. 412).

The population of Malta (96½ sq. M.), is ca. 184,000, apart from the garrison (nearly 9000 soldiers); that of Gozo (27 sq. M.) is 21,200. The British and foreign residents number about 10,000. The natives, especially in the seaports, Phœnician in origin, are partly descended from the various races that have here held sway. The lingua Maltese is akin to Arabic, but has borrowed much from the Sicilian dialect of Italian, and of late from English also. The educated classes speak Italian which is used also in the law-courts. The language of commerce is English. The faldetta, the peculiar black head-dress of the women, is the sole relic of the old national costumes.

The Maltese are much attached to the church of Rome, and nowhere in so small a community are the churches so numerous and gorgeous. About one-third of the soil is said to belong to the clergy. The Maltese are well-known throughout the Mediterranean as enterprising mariners, merchants, and fishermen. Their island being the most densely peopled region in the Mediterranean next to Monaco, an immense number of the inhabitants have emigrated during the last century. From 1807 onwards they settled largely in the Tunisian seaports, from Tabarca to Zarzis, where they formed the bulk of the Christian population, but of late they have had to contend against the growing competition of the Sicilians and other Italians. In Algeria they have formidable rivals in the Italians and Spaniards. Within the last few decades the stream of emigration has flowed chiefly to Tripolitania, Barca, Egypt, and even to Zanzibar and Delagoa Bay.

Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of Ogygia described by Homer, where Odysseus is fabled to have been enslaved by the nymph Calypso, whose alleged cavern is still pointed out on the N. coast of Malta, and also in the island of Gozo. Between 3000 and 2000 B.C. a prehistoric race (Hamitic?), probably from Libya, settled in Malta. Of their stage of civilization, which lasted a thousand years, traces are still found in the massive stone structures in the cyclopean style, which reveal, especially in their circular ground-plan, an affinity with the sesi of Pantelleria, the nuraghi of Sardinia (see p. 145), and the megalithic monuments of Barbary, S.E. Spain, and the Balearic Islands, and fall within the sphere of influence of pre-Mycenæan (‘insular’) and Mycenæan culture. Later the Phœnicians of Sidon founded a colony here, which soon became important enough to send forth settlers to Acholla (p. 370) on the Tunisian coast. Next, in 736 B. C., came Greek immigrants, and two centuries later the Carthaginians, who took possession of the island. They now called it Melita and had a capital of that name (now Notabile), but they in their turn were ousted by the Romans in 218 B. C. It was on the N. coast of Melita that St. Paul was wrecked in 62 A. D. (Acts, xxvii. xxviii). He was received and courteously lodged by Publius, the governor, and founded a Christian community in the island before resuming his voyage. Four centuries later came the Vandals (p. 322), and after another century the Byzantines, who in 870 were driven out by Moors from Tunis. Under the Moors the island was infested with pirates. At length when the Normans under Roger conquered Sicily in 1090, Malta also fell under their sway, and thenceforward it shared the fortunes of Sicily until 1522. In that year arrived the Knights of St. John, banished from Rhodes by the Turks, and to that Order in 1530 Malta, Gozo, and Tripoli were granted by Emp. Charles V. The knights then took the name of Knights of Malta and gallantly defended their island, which became one of the great bulwarks of Christianity, against the repeated attacks of the Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained was that of Borgo (Vittoriosa, p. 400) in 1565, when they were attacked by the whole forces of Suleiman the Great under Dragut (p. 370), Mustapha, and Piali. In consequence of that event the Grand Master Jean de la Valette founded and fortified the new town of La Valette (Valletta), which became the capital and was deemed impregnable. In 1798 Bonaparte, when on his way to Egypt, gained possession of the town by treachery and stratagem; but on 8th Sept. 1800, after a siege of two years by the Maltese, assisted by British and Neapolitan troops, the French garrison was compelled to capitulate and leave the island. Since the treaty of Paris (1814) Malta has belonged to Britain.—The present governor of the island is Lt.-Gen. Sir H. M. Rundle, K. C. B.

The island of Malta presents an undulating and richly varied N.E. coast, but on the rocky S.W. side it rises abruptly from the sea. The Grand Harbour and the Marsamuscetto Harbour, the two grand natural harbours of Valletta, originally valleys hollowed out during the tertiary period, form one of the most important of British war-harbours and the headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet. Owing to its central position Malta is also a great coaling-station, vying with Gibraltar, Algiers, and Genoa. In 1908–9 the harbour was entered and cleared by 3212 vessels of 4,036,752 tons of burden.

Valletta.—Arrival. The great British liners lie to in Sliema Creek (p. 400); the French, Italian, and German steamers anchor in the Grand Harbour, near the Custom House, or, during N.E. gales, in the sheltered Marsa Creek. Boat to or from steamer 6d., with baggage 9d. (at night 1s.). Passports may sometimes be useful at custom-house, post-office, etc.

Hotels (all more or less in the English style). 1. At Valletta: Hôt. d’Angleterre, Strada Stretta 34, with a fine fresco-painted dining-room (17th cent.), pens. 9s., good; St. James’s Hotel, Strada San Paolo 226, pens. 9s., well conducted; Hôt. Royal, Strada Mercanti 30, pens. 10s.; Westminster, Strada Reale 11; Imperial, Via Santa Lucia 134; Queen’s, Strada Mercanti; Hôt. d’Australie, Strada Stretta 53, pens. 8½ fr.; Hôt. Central, Strada Stretta 44, pens. 8½ fr., good cuisine, commercial house. Also the family hotels, Oxford (No. 29), Great Britain (No. 67), and Osborne (No. 50), all in Strada Mezzodì, quiet and pleasant.—2. At Sliema (p. 400), for some stay: *New Imperial, Strada Ridolfo; Savoy, Strada Imrabat 6, with garden, pens. (with bath) 6–8s., good; these two in an open site.

Restaurant. National Restaurant, Strada Reale 253.—Cafés. Risazza, near the Exchange Buildings; Regina, Piazza Tesoreria; Anglo-Maltese (Engl. beer), Commerce, both in Strada Reale; Express.

Post Office, Strada Mercanti 4.—Telegraph Office, Strada Reale 38.

Banks. Anglo-Egyptian, Strada Reale 233; Banco di Roma; Anglo-Maltese and Banco di Malta, Exchange Buildings, Strada Reale.—Money Changers. Coppini, Strada Mercanti 58; Thos. Cook & Son, Strada Reale 308.—Bookseller. J. Critien, Strada Reale, and others.—Newspapers. Daily Malta Chronicle, Malta Herald, Gazzetta di Malta, etc.

Shops. Lace at the Malta Lace School, Strada Mezzodì 28; Borg, Strada Reale 269; Mifsud, Strada Santa Lucia.—Filigree Work at Amabile’s.

Theatres. Royal Opera, Strada Reale, at the corner of Strada Mezzodì (Nov.–April, Ital. opera); Teatro Manoel, Strada Teatro, built by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena (p. 401) in 1731, for operas and varieties.—Varieties at the Alhambra.

Cabs. Within Valletta and Floriana, incl. the Marina 4d. (luggage according to bargain); to Sliema 1s. 2d., to Burmola, Senglea, or Vittoriosa 1s. 8d., to Musta 2s., to Notabile or Krendi 2s. 6d., to Boschetto 3s., to Mnaidra or St. Paul’s Bay 4s.—By time: ¼ hr. 6d., ½ hr. 1s., 1 hr. 1s. 6d., each addit. ¼ hr. 4d.

Lift from the harbour to the Upper Barracca (p. 402), 1d.

Tramways from Porta Reale (1) viâ Marsa and Casal Paula (2d.) to Burmola, (2) viâ Curmi to Zebbug, (3) viâ Hamrun to Birchircara.

Steam Ferry across the Grand Harbour to Senglea (½d.); across Marsamuscetto Harbour to Sliema (½d.); to Pietà and Misida (1d.); in summer to St. Julian’s also (2d.).—Steamer to Gozo every week-day at 7, on Sun. at 8 a.m.; on Sun., Tues., Thurs., Sat. at 1 p.m. also; returning at 10.30 or 4.30; return-fare 1s.; dep. from Grand Harbour; to or from steamer 4d.

Malta Railway (station between Royal Opera and Porta Reale), 24 trains daily (more on Sun.) to Attard 3d. or 1½d., to Notabile (Città Vecchia) 7d. or 3½d.

Steamboat Offices. Peninsular & Oriental, Worcester, Strada Mercanti 41; Cunard, Lowe, Strada Stretta 81; Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. 396), Vadala, Strada Reale 292; Società Nazionale (R. 64), Civitelli, Strada San Paolo 225; German Levant, P. Cutajar & Co.; Hungarian Adria Co. (RR. 22, 23), Kohen, Piazza Regina 6.

United States Consul, J. O. Laing; vice-consul, James A. Turnbull.—Lloyd’s Agents, Gollcher & Sons, Strada Zaccaria 21.

Sights. Cathedral before 8 and from 10 to 10.30 a.m.; also after 2 p.m.—Library on week-days, 9 to 3.30.—Governor’s Palace daily, 9–12 and 1–5, 6d. (guide unnecessary).—Valletta Museum on week-days 9–1 (in June-Sept. 3–6 also), 6d., Sat. 3d. ; Sun. 9–12 free.

One Day. Visit to Cathedral, Palace, and Museum (p. 401), and view from Barracca Superiore (p. 402) in the forenoon; in the afternoon, trip to Notabile (p. 403; cathedral, bastions, museum), or to Gozo (p. 403).

Valletta or Valetta (197 ft.; pop. 25,000, or incl. Floriana 32,000), the capital of Malta, is the seat of the Governor (see p. 399), of the Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Forces (Gen. Sir Ian Hamilton), and of a University founded in 1769. It lies in 35°34′ N. lat. and 14°31′ E. long., at the extremity of the peninsula, formerly called Monte Sceberras, 1½ M. long and ½ M. broad, between the Grand Harbour (to the S.E.) and the Marsamuscetto Harbour (to the N.W.). Enthroned above its harbours, with its grand fortifications partly hewn in the rock, the model of a 16th. cent, fortress, it presents a very striking appearance when approached from the sea.

Opposite Valletta, on the three central creeks of the Grand Harbour, lie the ‘Three Cities’ of Borgo (Malt. Birgu; pop. 6200), the oldest seat of the Maltese Order, also called Vittoriosa since the great Turkish siege, Sénglea (pop. 8100), and Búrmola or Cospicua (pop. 14,100), with the naval arsenal. In the Marsamuscetto Harbour lies the island of Jezira, with the Lazzaretto, beyond which, on the Sliema Creek, rises the town of Sliema (pop. 12,000).

The Fortifications were an object of ceaseless attention under the rule of the Order. The oldest part of them is Fort St. Angelo, originally built by the Moors in 870 and renewed in 1530, which in the siege of 1565 proved the chief bulwark of Borgo. Fort St. Elmo, originally built in 1488 but now entirely altered, fell into the hands of the Turks in 1565. The town-wall of Borgo was built in 1530 and that of Sénglea in 1554. The *Town Walls of Valletta, with their thirty bastions, deep moats, drawbridges, and casemates, date chiefly from the time of the foundation of the town (1566–71). The outworks of Floriana are of 1635. The older ramparts of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Burmola, called the Firenzuola Lines, were strengthened by the addition of new outworks in 1668 called the Cottonera Lines. The later harbour-forts are Fort Ricasoli, of 1670, Fort Manoel in Jezira, of 1732, and Fort Tigné, of 1792. All these works are supplemented by the British Harbour Batteries.

The streets ascend steeply from the two harbours, many of them by means of long flights of steps. The main business streets are the Strada Reale, leading on the top of the peninsula from Fort St. Elmo to Porta Reale (over ½ M.), and the Strada Mercanti. From the latter the Strada Cristoforo descends past the University, established in an old Jesuit college (Strada San Paolo 109), to the Lower Barracca Gardens, a bastion affording a good survey of the mouth of the harbour and the ‘Three Cities’.

The plain Palace, once the seat of the Grand Master and now that of the governor of Malta (see p. 399), was erected in 1573–7 by Girolamo Cassar in the Strada Reale and Piazza Tesoreria, in the centre of the town. The garden court on the left is adorned with a bronze statue of Neptune by Giovanni da Bologna; in the court on the right rises a huge Araucaria excelsa. Adm., see p. 400; entrance by the green gate in the upper court.

The chief attraction is the Palace Armoury on the first floor, containing armour, weapons, flags, and trophies of the Order (catalogue 5s.). The principal hall, 88 yds. long, contains also state-coaches in the pseudo-classical style and charters of Pope Paschalis II. (1113) and Charles V. (1530; investiture of the Order). On the walls of the adjacent corridor are painted views of old Malta. The Council Room on the left is hung with superb Gobelins, designed by Franç. Desportes (1703). The wall-paintings represent naval battles fought by the Order.

An inscription on the Doric portico of the Main Guard, opposite the N.W. façade of the Palace, records the cession of Malta to Great Britain. A band often plays in the square in the evening. In the Piazza Tesoreria, opposite the S.W. façade of the Palace, is the Public Library of 56,000 vols. (adm., see p. 400; entrance under the arcades).

The Cathedral of San Giovanni (St. John’s), to the left in the second side-street in the direction of the Porta Reale, built in 1573–7 by Girol. Cassar, and lavishly decorated in the interior, was the Order’s temple of fame. Adm., see p. 400.

Interior. The oil-paintings on the barrel-vaulting are by Mattia Preti (‘il Cavaliere Calabrese’; 1613–99). On the floor are about 400 slabs of coloured marble, tombstones of the knights. The chapels dedicated to the nine nations of the Order are lined with a number of tombstones of Grand Masters, mostly in the baroque or rococo style. In the Portuguese chapel (2nd on the right) are those of Ant. Manoel de Vilhena (1722–36) and Manoel Pinto de Fonseca (1741–73), the founder of the university.—In the Crypt, below the high-altar (of 1686), repose, among others, L’Isle Adam (1530–4), the first Maltese Grand Master, and Jean de la Valette (1557–68), the gallant defender of Borgo (see p. 398).

Sumptuous Brussels tapestry (1697–1701), after designs by Rubens and Mattia Preti, is hung up in the church on festivals.

The *Valletta Museum, Strada San Giovanni 38, opposite the façade of the Cathedral, affords an admirable survey of the history of Maltese art and culture from the prehistoric age down to the close of the Knights’ period. Adm., see p. 400; no catalogue; curator, Dr. Themistocles Zammit.

Entrance Room. On the left the ‘sacred stone’ from the Torre dei Giganti (p. 404); Roman inscriptions from Gozo (about 140 A. D.); a fine Norman capital, Norman and Cufic (early Arabic) inscriptions, etc.; also models of stone balconies and of a Norman window at Victoria (p. 404).

First Floor. Prehistoric objects from Egypt (the Faiyûm); the Lord Grenfell collection of Egyptian antiquities; Greek vases from Benghazi and Cyrene; Arabian glass, etc.

Second Floor. In the Ante Room are Roman sculptures.—The Chief Hall contains prehistoric, Phœnician, Punic, and Roman objects from tombs in Malta and Gozo. By the entrance-wall is a large collection of vases arranged in types. In the last case are potsherds from various neolithic stations. By the back-wall are prehistoric finds from Hal-Saflieni (see below) and Hagiar Kim (p. 403), vases, amulets, projectiles, flint implements, seven seated stone figures, etc.; adjacent, on the left, is the unique Phœnician-Greek dedicatory inscription in which Phœnician characters were for the first time deciphered (on the right, cast of a similar inscription in the Louvre). By the window-wall are copies and models of the so-called chief temple of Hagiar Kim and of Phœnician tombs; also an Arabian tombstone (1173), with a long Cufic inscription. In the first case in the centre is Phœnician glass; in the fourth, a Phœnician terracotta sarcophagus, with the recumbent figure of the deceased. The Second Room contains memorials of the period of the Order.—In the Passage are drawings of the Roman house at Notabile (p. 403) and its mosaics.—The Third Room contains old plans, maps, and views of Malta of old; model of a state-galley of the Grand Masters; a collection of coins from the Phœnician age to the present day.

Each of the nine nations of the Order had its own ‘auberge’ or house of assembly. Most of these were built by Girol. Cassar. The Auberge d’Aragon is in the Piazza Celsi. At the upper end of the town are the Aub. de Provence, at the corner of the Strada Reale and Strada Britannica, the Aub. d’Italie (1574), in the Strada Mercanti, opposite the post-office, and the handsome Aub. de Castille (1574; altered in 1744), in the Piazza Regina.—A few paces from the Piazza Regina are the Upper Barracca Gardens (laid out on the large bastion of Barracca Superiore; lift, see p. 400), embellished with numerous statues, and affording a fine view of the Grand Harbour, especially by evening light.

Through the Porta Reale (P. R. on the map) we reach the plateau between Valletta and the suburb of Floriana. Near the gate is the tramway-station (p. 400). On the right, farther on, is the Parade Ground. In the middle of the plateau, beyond the bronze statue of Ant. Manoel de Vilhena (p. 401), runs the long narrow Maglio Garden, enclosed by high walls. Farther on we come to the bastions of Floriana, on which are situated the Argotti or Botanic Garden, belonging to the university, and the Sarrìa, a handsome church of the Maltese Order (1678).

At Casal Paula or Paula, 2 M. to the S. of Floriana, beyond the Creek of Marsa, lies the prehistoric Hypogaeum of Hal Saflieni, containing circular caves, some of them richly decorated, of the period of the neolithic civilization. Entrance (6d.) in Catacomb Street, 5 min. from the tramway-terminus (p. 400).

Railway (p. 400) from Valletta to Notabile (carr., see p. 399). After the long tunnel under Floriana come the stations of Hamrun, Misida, Birchircara, and (4½ M.) Attard (Alb. Melita). About 10 min. to the N. of Attard is the Palace of Sant’Antonio (1625), once the summer seat of the Grand Master (visitors admitted to the fine garden). The road in front of the palace goes on to (2 M.) Musta, with a remarkable church, whose huge dome, 118 ft. in diameter, was constructed in 1853–64 without the aid of scaffolding.

7 M. Notábile or Città Vecchia (Hôt. du Point-de-Vue, with fine view, pens. 7–8s.; pop. 7500), still popularly called Medina (Arabic for ‘town’), the seat of the bishop, was the old fortified capital of the island as far back as the Roman age.

From the Notabile station a road leads to the Piazza Sakkaya, on the hill between the old town and the S. suburb of Rábato. Thence we pass through the Porta dei Greci to St. Paul’s Cathedral (San Paolo), before whose portal are planted cannons as in the time of the Order. The sumptuous interior contains many marble tombstones of Maltese bishops. Fine choir-stalls of 1480. The Strada dei Bastioni behind the church commands an extensive view.

In Museum Road, not far from the Piazza Sakkaya, is a Roman house, excavated in 1881, now converted into a Museum, containing mosaic pavements, statues, bronzes, and glass (fee 3d.).—The adjacent Esplanade affords a fine view of Musta, the town-walls of Notabile, and the pleasant green valley at the foot of the Imtarfa Hill, with the barracks and the Museum Station (terminus of the railway, which goes through a tunnel under Notabile).

The parish church of San Paolo, in the Piazza Parrocchiale of the suburb of Rabato, stands over a cavern, in which, according to the legend, St. Paul dwelt during his three months’ stay in the island in the year 62. From the church the Strada San Cataldo and Strada Sant’ Agata soon lead to the Catacombs of St. Paul and the Cemetery of St. Agatha, both pre-Christian in origin but used in Christian times (fee 3d.).

To the N.W. of Notabile rise the Bingemma Hills (784 ft.), with Phœnician rock-tombs and a fort on the coast.—About 2 M. to the S.W. of Notabile, near Casal Dingli, is the Naval Signal Station (847 ft.), the highest point in the island, whence we overlook the whole group of islands and the surrounding sea.—Some 2 M. to the S. of Notabile lies the Boschetto, a large public garden (carr., see p. 399), adjoining the Verdala Palace (1586), once a summer seat of the Grand Masters (now that of the governors).—To the S.E. is (4½ M.) Casal Krendi (carr., see p. 399), near the luxuriantly wooded gorge of Makluba, 132 ft. deep, probably formed by an earthquake. We may visit (20 min. to the W.) the prehistoric ruins of Hagiar Kim, buildings of huge blocks of stone without mortar. About 7 min. farther to the W. are the similar ruins of Mnaidra.

St. Paul’s Bay (Baia di San Paolo; carr., see p. 399) on the N. side of the island, 5½ M. to the N. of Notabile, with the islet of Selmun (colossal statue of the apostle), is the supposed scene of St. Paul’s shipwreck.

The sister island of Gozo (p. 397), to the N.W. of Malta, the ancient Gaulos, Maltese Ghaudex, which also was once fortified by the Maltese Order, is more fertile and varied than the main island. The coast is precipitous all round. The small local boat (p. 400) crosses in 1½ hr., affording a fine view of the N.E. coast of Malta, and, on the way back, of the caves on the W. shore of Comino. We land in Migiarro or Miggiar Bay (Malt. Mjiar), on the S. coast of Gozo, below Fort Chambré (1750), where carriages are in waiting (to Victoria and back 3s., whole day 5s.).

Victoria (299 ft.; Duke of Edinburgh Hotel, and others; pop. 5000), called Rábat down to 1887, the capital and episcopal residence of Gozo, lies in the centre of the island, 4 M. to the N.W. of the landing-place. The streets show a good many relics of mediæval architecture (comp. p. 402). The neglected Citadel dates from 1600. The women of Gozo are much occupied with lace-making.

A branch of the road from the harbour to Victoria leads to the village of Sciarra (486 ft.; Maltese Casal Xaghra). Below Sciarra, on a height covered with fruit-trees, rises the Torre dei Giganti (Malt. Ggantija), similar to the ruins of Hagiar Kim (p. 403; adm. by leave of the proprietor, Marquis Cassar Desain).

64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta.

Between Tunis and Tripoli, 544 M.: 1. Società Nationale, Line XIX (Linea Circolare della Tunisia e Tripolitania, see p. 142) from Tunis Wed. aft., from Susa Thurs. foren., from Sfax Frid. night, arr. at Tripoli Sun. morn. (in the reverse direction leave Tripoli Thurs. aft., arr. at Tunis Mon. morn.). Fare 103 or 75 fr.—2. Comp. de Navig. Mixte (p. 128) leave Tunis Frid. even., Susa Sat. noon, Sfax Sun. midnight, Gabes Mon. noon, Djerba Mon. even., arr. at Tripoli Tues. morn. (in reverse direction leave Tripoli Tues. aft., arr. in Tunis Sat. evening). Fare 100 or 75 fr.—From Tunis to Susa viâ Sfax and back, also steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. 128; leave Tunis Sun. aft., Sfax Mon. aft., Susa Tues, aft., regaining Tunis Wed. morn.).—Between Algiers and Tripoli direct, or viâ Malta, there are also the cargo-steamers of the German Levant Line.—At Gabes, Djerba, and Tripoli gales sometimes make landing impossible; passengers are then landed at the next port and sent back free, paying for their extra food only.—Agents at Tunis, see p. 331; at Susa, see p. 366; at Sfax, see p. 380; at Tripoli, see p. 406.

Between Tripoli and Syracuse, 325 M.: Società Nazionale, Line XX (Linea Circolare, see above), also Line VIII (Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi, Constantinople; R. 66). The vessels of the principal line leave Tripoli Sun. aft., Malta Mon. night, arr. at Syracuse Tues. morn. (returning from Syracuse Mon. night, from Malta Wed. foren., arr. at Tripoli Thurs. morn.); steamers of the other line usually leave Tripoli every second Wed. aft., Malta Thurs. night, arr. at Syracuse Frid. morn. (returning from Syracuse every second Frid. night, from Malta Sun. foren., arr. at Tripoli Mon. morn.). Fare 74 fr. 50 c. or 51 fr.—From Malta to Tripoli there is a fortnightly steamer of the Banco di Roma and occasionally a cargo-boat of the German Levant Line.—Between Malta and Syracuse the Hungarian Adria (p. 132) plies daily except Mon. (from Malta after midnight, from Syracuse in the afternoon; in 8 hrs.; fare without food 25 or 15, return 37½ or 22½ fr.).—Agents at Malta and Syracuse, see p. 400, 162.

From Tunis to Cape Bon, see p. 153. Our steamer, generally at night, next skirts the steep E. coast of Cape Bon, passes Râs el-Mirh, and off Râs el-Mustapha steers to the S.S.W. for Susa. On the latter headland lies the little town of Kelibia, the ancient Aspis or Clupea, whose castle-hill is crowned with a lighthouse. The flat coast of the Gulf of Hammamet (p. 364) recedes from view; beyond it, in the background, are the distant Jebel Zaghouan (p. 359), Jebel Zeriba (2412 ft.), and Jebel Fadloun (1306 ft.).

Nearing Susa (p. 366), we have a pleasant view of the olive-clad hills of the Sahel, while the town itself presents a most striking picture with its great expanse of white houses.

Leaving the coast, where the low dunes conceal the salt-marshes of the Sebkha de Sahline, we steer to the E.S.E. towards the Pointe de Monastir, the S. limit of the bay of Hammamet.

The little town of Monastir (82 ft.; Hôt. de Paris, Hôt. de France, both primitive; Brit. vice-cons., A. B. Geary; pop. 9000, incl. 600 Europeans) lies superbly on the olive-clad headland. It owes its name to a monastery, which in early Moorish times still existed as the sole relic of the Roman seaport of Ruspina.

From the steamer we first sight the white pinnacled town-wall and the numerous shrines outside of it. Then, as we pass between the headland and the three islets off the coast (Djezira Sidi el-Rhedamsi or Ile Egdemsi, etc.), appears the dilapidated Moorish Kasba with the tower of En-Nadour. To the E. in very clear weather we descry the lighthouse on the distant Kuriat Islands.

After a short stay in the Bay of Monastir, on the S. side of the town, we steer to the S.E., past the Dahar Cliffs (on the left), and across the bay; then, beyond the Râs Dimas, along the coast to Mehdia (p. 369), where the steamer seldom stops long enough to admit of our visiting the town.

Next (generally at night) we pass Râs Kapoudia (p. 370), the N. limit of the Gulf of Gabes (the ancient Syrtis Minor), where the discrepancy between flow and ebb (6½ ft.) is greater than in any other part of the Mediterranean. Avoiding the silted Kerkenna Passage, the vessel steers round the Kerkenna Islands (Ile Chergui and Ile Gharbi, the ancient Cercina and Cercinitis).

The steamer usually arrives at Sfax (by way of the harbour-canal, p. 381) early in the morning. Beyond Sfax the vessel skirts the uninteresting coast as far as Râs Tina (p. 383), and then steers to the S.S.W. across the bay to Gabes (p. 389), where it generally allows time for a short visit to the oasis.

Leaving Gabes we may in clear weather descry the Monts des Ksour (p. 390) bounding the horizon. We then steer to the E. to the sandy N. coast of Djerba (p. 393), and anchor in the open sea off Houmt-Souk (p. 393). The process of going ashore and returning takes so long that it is hardly ever possible to visit the place.

After losing sight of the lighthouse of Râs Taguermess (or Turgoeness), the E. cape of Djerba, we steer for a long time to the E.S.E., at some distance from the sandy coast with its salt-marshes, where the Râs Adjir marks the frontier of Tripolitania.

The monotonous sandy coast, with its numerous oases, with the little port of Sansur, and the watch-tower of Gergârish (p. 411), is scarcely visible till we are nearing Tripoli. The Lighthouse, rising above the abraded terrace on the N.W. side of the town, and the ruinous Spanish Fort (1510) at the end of the headland are the chief landmarks. Numerous reefs make it difficult, and in a N.W. gale sometimes impossible, for vessels to enter the harbour.

---

Tripoli.—Arrival. The steamers anchor in the inner roads, more than ½ M. from the pier, and are at once boarded by the hotel-agents (charges should be asked). Landing or embarking 50 c., but with baggage 1–1½ fr. according to distance and bargain. Dogana at the pier (Pl. B, 1; comp. p. 537). For a prolonged stay a passport visé by a Turkish consul is necessary, but otherwise a ‘permis de voyage’ (1 fr.) from the Contrôle Civil at Tunis, or even a visiting-card, may suffice. The services of the importunate Jewish guides should be declined.

Hotel. Hôt. Minerva (Pl. a, B 2; Maltese landlord; bargain advisable), déj. 2½, pens. 6–8 fr., tolerable.—Café-Restaurant: Circolo Militare (p. 409; Maltese host), near the Bâb el-Khandek. Many small Arab cafés on the quay (Marina), near the clock-tower (Orologio), etc.; small cup of coffee (gâhua) 5 c., very sweet ‘hlu’, slightly sweetened ‘gídgid’; cup of tea (shâi) 10 c.; no gratuities.

Moorish Baths (comp. p. 175), tolerable; the best is the Hammôm (bagno árabo) in Strada del Bagno (Pl. B, 2); Europeans pay 3 fr. or more according to their rank.

Post Offices. Italian, at the Ital. consulate (Pl. 7; B, 2), Strada del Consolato Italiano; French, at the French consulate (Pl. 4; B, 1), Strada del Consolato Francese; Turkish, on the quay (Marina). Poste Restante letters should bear the name of the office where they are to be found.—Telegraph Office. Eastern Telegraph Co. (Pl. 10; B, 2), on the quay; payment must be made in gold or in Turkish money.

Consulates. British (Pl. 5; B, 1): consul-general, J. C. W. Alvarez; vice-consul, A. Dickson.—United States (Pl. 9; B, 4): consul, J. L. Wood; vice-consul, A. E. Saunders.

Steamboat Offices (comp. p. 404, and RR. 65, 66): Società Nazionale, Labi, Strada del Bagno; Comp. de Navigation Mixte, Fratelli Farrugia, Strada del Consolato Italiano; German Levant Line, Sûk el-Harrâra (Pl. B, 2; near Sûk et-Turk).

Banks. Banco di Roma (Pl. 2; B, 2), in the Piazza (p. 409); Ottoman Bank (Pl. 1; B, 2), on the quay; Labi, see above. Government offices accept Turkish money only, but Tunisian silver and copper, and in the town even Italian copper, besides 10 and 20 fr. gold pieces, are in general circulation.

Carriages (stand on the S.E. side of the Serâi, p. 409) 1½–2½ fr. per hour according to the quality of the vehicle; drive round the oasis 3–5 fr.; as few of the drivers speak Italian it is best to get a resident to make the bargain and specify the route.—Donkeys (at the Sûk el-Khobsa, p. 410), ½ day 1–2, day 2–3 fr.—Rowing and Sailing Boats at the pier; about 2 fr. per hour.

The Language of the natives is an Arabic dialect, interlarded with Berber and Italian words; many of the officials, however, speak Turkish only. In the European colony Italian predominates. This is largely due to the fact that the Italian state supports several schools, which are attended by Jewish and Maltese children as well as Italian. There are three French schools also.