[1] Quadratum imponis, which is plain enough. The hare is to be roast therein. Dann. Cut in dice; Goll. Spread it out. Cf. illustration of square roast pan.
[2] Presumably the trimmings of the hare or of pork. This forcemeat is supposed to be used for the stuffing of the hare; it, being boned, is rolled up, the forcemeat inside, the outside covered with caul or paper, fastened with skewers. Danneil’s interpretation suggests the thought that the raw hare’s meat is cut into squares which are filled with forcemeat, rolled, wrapped, and roast—a roulade of hare in the regular term.
[392] BOILED HARE ALITER LEPOREM ELIXUM
DRESS THE HARE; [boil it]. IN A FLAT SAUCE PAN POUR OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE, SLICED ONION, GREEN RUE AND CHOPPED THYME [a sauce which is served on the side] AND SO SERVE IT.
Tor. continuing without interruption.
[393] SPICED SAUCE FOR HARE LEPORIS CONDITURA
CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, THE HARE’S LIVER, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH RUE WHEN BOILING.
Tor. id.
[394] SPRINKLED HARE LEPOREM (PIPERE) SICCO SPARSUM [1]
DRESS THE HARE AS FOR KID À LA TARPEIUS [℞ No. 363]. BEFORE COOKING DECORATE IT NICELY [2]. SEASON WITH PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONION, LITTLE THYME, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ROAST IN THE OVEN; AND ALL OVER SPRINKLE HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, SATURY, 4 DATES, AND RAISINS. THE GRAVY IS GIVEN PLENTY OF COLOR OVER THE OPEN FIRE, AND IS SEASONED WITH WINE, OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, FREQUENTLY STIRRING IT [basting the hare] SO THAT IT MAY ABSORB ALL THE FLAVOR. AFTER THAT SERVE IT IN A ROUND DISH WITH DRY PEPPER.
[1] Tac., Tor. succo sparsum.
[2] We have no proof that the ancients used the larding needle as we do (or did) in our days. “Decorate” may, therefore, also mean “garnish,” i.e. marinate the meat in a generous variety of spices, herbs, roots and wine. It is noteworthy that this term, “garnish,” used here and in the preceding formulæ has survived in the terminology of the kitchen to this day, in that very sense.
[395] SPICED HARE ALITER LEPOREM CONDITUM
[The well-prepared hare] COOK IN WINE, BROTH, WATER, WITH A LITTLE MUSTARD [seed], DILL AND LEEKS WITH THE ROOTS. WHEN ALL IS DONE, SEASON WITH PEPPER, SATURY, ROUND ONIONS, DAMASCUS PLUMS, WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; TIE WITH ROUX, LET BOIL A LITTLE LONGER [baste] SO THAT THE HARE IS PENETRATED BY THE FLAVOR, AND SERVE IT ON A PLATTER MASKED WITH SAUCE.
IX
DORMICE GLIRES
[396] STUFFED DORMOUSE [1] GLIRES
IS STUFFED WITH A FORCEMEAT OF PORK AND SMALL PIECES OF DORMOUSE MEAT TRIMMINGS, ALL POUNDED WITH PEPPER, NUTS, LASER, BROTH. PUT THE DORMOUSE THUS STUFFED IN AN EARTHEN CASSEROLE, ROAST IT IN THE OVEN, OR BOIL IT IN THE STOCK POT.
[1] Glis, dormouse, a special favorite of the ancients, has nothing to do with mice. The fat dormouse of the South of Europe is the size of a rat, arboreal rodent, living in trees.
Galen, III, de Alim.; Plinius, VIII, 57/82; Varro, III, describing the glirarium, place where the dormouse was raised for the table.
Petronius, Cap. 31, describes another way of preparing dormouse. Nonnus, Diæteticon, p. 194/5, says that Fluvius Hirpinus was the first man to raise dormouse in the glirarium.
Dormouse, as an article of diet, should not astonish Americans who relish squirrel, opossum, muskrat, “coon,” etc.
END OF BOOK VIII
EXPLICIT APICII TETRAPUS LIBER OCTAUUS [Tac.]
TITLE PAGE
Schola Apitiana, Antwerp, 1535
APICIUS
Book IX
WINE PITCHER, ELABORATELY DECORATED
“Egg and bead” pattern on the rim. The upper end of handle takes the form of a goddess—Scylla, or Diana with two hounds—ending in acanthus leaves below the waist. On the curved back of handle is a long leaf; the lower attachment is in the form of a mask, ivy-crowned maenad (?). Ntl. Mus., Naples, 69171; Field M., 24048.
CACCABUS
Stewpot, marmite, without a base, to fit into a hole of stove. The flat lid fits into the mouth of the pot. Found in Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74806; Field M., 24171.
BOOK IX. SEAFOOD
Lib. IX. Thalassa
| CHAP. | I. | SHELLFISH. |
| CHAP. | II. | RAY. |
| CHAP. | III. | CALAMARY. |
| CHAP. | IV. | CUTTLEFISH. |
| CHAP. | V. | POLYPUS. |
| CHAP. | VI. | OYSTERS. |
| CHAP. | VII. | ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES. |
| CHAP. | VIII. | SEA URCHIN. |
| CHAP. | IX. | MUSSELS. |
| CHAP. | X. | SARDINES. |
| CHAP. | XI. | FISH SAUCES. |
| CHAP. | XII. | BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW. |
I
SHELLFISH IN LOCUSTA
[397] SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH IUS IN LOCUSTA ET CAPPARI [1]
CHOPPED SCALLIONS FRIED LIGHTLY, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; WHILE BOILING ADD MUSTARD.
[1] locusta, spiny lobster; Fr. langouste; G.-V. capparus; not clear, (cammarus, a crab); List. carabus—long-tailed lobster or crab, the cancer cursor of Linnæus, according to Beckmann; mentioned by Plinius.
[398] BROILED LOBSTER LOCUSTAS ASSAS
MAKES THUS: IF BROILED, THEY SHOULD APPEAR IN THEIR SHELL; [which is opened by splitting the live lobster in two] SEASON WITH PEPPER SAUCE AND CORIANDER SAUCE [moisten with oil] AND BROIL THEM ON THE GRILL. WHEN THEY ARE DRY [1] KEEP ON BASTING THEM MORE AND MORE [with oil or butter] UNTIL THEY ARE PROPERLY BROILED [2].
[1] i.e. when the soft jelly-like meat has congealed.
[2] Same procedure as today.
[399] BOILED LOBSTER WITH CUMIN SAUCE [1] LOCUSTAM ELIXAM CUM CUMINATO
REAL BOILED LOBSTER IS COOKED WITH CUMIN SAUCE [essence] AND, BY RIGHT, THROW IN SOME [whole] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A LITTLE MORE WHOLE CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD SOME [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [3].
[1] Cumin, mustard and other spices similar to the above are used for cooking crawfish today.
[2] Sentence ex Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] Malabathrum, aromatic leaves of an Indian tree; according to Plinius the laurus cassia—wild cinnamon.
[400] ANOTHER LOBSTER DISH—MINCE OF THE TAIL MEAT ALITER LOCUSTAM—ISICIA DE CAUDA EIUS SIC FACIES
HAVE LEAVES READY [in which to wrap the mince croquettes] BOIL [the lobster] TAKE THE CLUSTER OF SPAWN [from under the female’s tail, and the coral of the male] THEREUPON CUT FINE THE [boiled] MEAT OF THE TAIL, AND WITH BROTH AND PEPPER AND THE EGGS MAKE THE CROQUETTES [and fry].
It is understood that hen eggs are added to bind the mince.
[401] BOILED LOBSTER IN LOCUSTA ELIXA
PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.
[402] ANOTHER LOBSTER PREPARATION ALITER IN LOCUSTA
FOR LOBSTER LET US PROPERLY EMPLOY [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, MINT, RUE, NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND WINE.
[1] Tor. rectè adhibemus, sentence not in the other texts.
II
RAY, SKATE IN TORPEDINE [1]
[403] [A Sauce for] RAY IN TORPEDINE
CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SHALLOTS, [adding] HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE WINE, ALSO A FEW DROPS OF OIL; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] torpedo; the raia torpedo of Linnæus; a ray or skate.
[404] BOILED RAY IN TORPEDINE ELIXA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, MINT, ORIGANY, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE. WINE, AND OIL. IF YOU WISH, ADD MUSTARD AND VINEGAR, OR, IF DESIRED RICHER, ADD RAISINS.
This appears to be a sauce to be poured over the boiled ray.
Today the ray is boiled in water seasoned strongly and with similar ingredients. When done, the fish is allowed to cool in this water; the edible parts are then removed, the water drained from the meat, which is tossed in sizzling brown butter with lemon juice, vinegar and capers. This is raie au beurre noir, much esteemed on the French seaboards.
III
CALAMARY IN LOLIGINE [1]
[405] CALAMARY IN THE PAN IN LOLIGINE IN PATINA
CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, AND OIL TO TASTE. WHEN COMMENCING TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] Calamary, ink-fish, cuttlefish. Cf. Chap. IV. G.-V. Lolligine.
[405a] STUFFED CALAMARY [1] IN LOLIGINE FARSILI
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CELERY SEED, YOLKS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, AND BIND [2].
[1] Ex List., Sch., and G.-V. Evidently a sauce or dressing. The formula for the forcemeat of the fish is not given here but is found in ℞ No. 406—stuffed Sepia, a fish akin to the calamary.
IV
SEPIA, CUTTLEFISH IN SEPIIS
[406] STUFFED SEPIA IN SEPIA FARSILI
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, HONEY, BROTH, WINE, BASIC CONDIMENTS [1] HEAT [in water] THROW IN THE CUTTLEFISH; [when done] SPLIT, THEN STUFF THE CUTTLEFISH [2] WITH [the following forcemeat] BOILED BRAINS, THE STRINGS AND SKIN REMOVED, POUND WITH PEPPER, MIX IN RAW EGGS UNTIL IT IS PLENTY. WHOLE PEPPER [to be added]. TIE [the filled dish] INTO LITTLE BUNDLES [of linen] AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT UNTIL THE FORCEMEAT IS PROPERLY COOKED.
[1] Condimenta coctiva—salt, herbs, roots.
[2] G.-V. treat this as a separate formula.
[407] BOILED CUTTLEFISH [1] SEPIAS ELIXAS AB AHENO [2]
ARE PLACED IN A COPPER KETTLE WITH COLD [WATER] AND PEPPER, LASER, BROTH, NUTS, EGGS, AND [any other] SEASONING YOU MAY WISH.
[1] List. connects this article with the foregoing.
[2] Tor. aheno for copper kettle; List. amylo.
[408] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK CUTTLEFISH ALITER SEPIAS
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, DRY MINT, YOLKS, HONEY, BROTH, WINE, VINEGAR, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX.
V
POLYPUS [1] IN POLYPO
[cook with] PEPPER, LOVAGE, BROTH, LASER, GINGER [2] AND SERVE.
[1] The polypus, or eight-armed sepia, has been described by Plinius, Galen, Cicero, Diocles, Athenæus and other ancient writers. The ancients praise it as a food and attribute to the polypus the power of restoring lost vitality: molli carne pisces, & suaves gustu sunt, & ad venerem conferunt—Diocles.
Wanting in the Vat. Ms.
[2] Wanting in List. and G.-V. Ex Tor. p. 100.
VI
OYSTERS IN OSTREIS
TO OYSTERS WHICH WANT TO BE WELL SEASONED ADD [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, YOLKS, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, AND WINE; IF YOU WISH ALSO ADD HONEY [3].
[1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in the other texts.
[3] Cf. No. 14 for the keeping of oysters. It is not likely that the oysters brought from Great Britain to Rome were in a condition to be enjoyed from the shell—raw.
The above formula appears to be a sort of oyster stew.
VII
[411] ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES IN OMNE GENUS CONCHYLIORUM [1]
FOR ALL KINDS OF SHELLFISH USE PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A LITTLE MORE OF CUMIN, HONEY, AND BROTH; IF YOU WISH, ADD [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [2].
[1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms.
[2] Cf. note to ℞ No. 399.
The shellfish is cooked or steamed with the above ingredients.
VIII
SEA URCHINS IN ECHINO
TO PREPARE SEA URCHIN TAKE A NEW EARTHEN POT, A LITTLE OIL, BROTH, SWEET WINE, GROUND PEPPER, AND SET IT TO HEAT; WHEN BOILING PUT THE URCHINS IN SINGLY. SHAKE THEM WELL, LET THEM STEW, AND WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
Plinius states that only a few small parts of the sea urchin are edible.
[413] ANOTHER METHOD ALITER [IN] ECHINO
PEPPER, A LITTLE COSTMARY, DRY MINT, MEAD, BROTH, INDIAN SPIKENARD, AND [bay or nard] LEAVES.
PUT THE SEA URCHINS SINGLY IN BOILING WATER, COOK, RETIRE, AND PLACE ON A PLATTER.
[415] IN CHAFING DISH IN THERMOSPODIO [1]
[To the meat of sea urchins, cooked as above, add a sauce made of bay] LEAVES, PEPPER, HONEY, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH EGGS IN THE HOT WATER BATH [2] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] This formula is combined with the preceding in the original.
[2] Thermospodium; in this respect resembling seafood à la Newburgh. The thermospodium is an elaborate food and drink heater, used both in the kitchen and in the dining room. Our drawing illustrates an elaborate specimen which was used to prepare dishes such as this one in front of the guests.
[416] SALT SEA URCHIN IN ECHINO SALSO
[The cooked meat of] SALT SEA URCHIN IS SERVED UP WITH THE BEST [fish] BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND PEPPER TO TASTE.
Undoubtedly a commercial article like crabmeat today. The sea urchins were cooked at the fisheries, picked, shells, refuse discarded, the meat salted and marketed. The fish was also salted in the shell as seen in the following:
TAKE SALT SEA URCHINS, ADD THE BEST BROTH AND TREAT THEM IN A MANNER AS TO LOOK LIKE FRESH THAT HAVE JUST COME OUT OF THE WATER.
IX
MUSSELS IN MITULIS [1]
BEST [2] BROTH, FINELY CUT LEEKS, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, MUST [3] AND ADD WATER TO MAKE A MIXTURE IN WHICH TO COOK THE MUSSELS.
[1] Variously spelled mytilus, mitylus, mutulus, an edible mussel.
Tor. and List. merula, merling, whiting, Fr. merlan. Merula also is a blackbird, which is out of place here. The Vat. Ms. reads in metulis.
[2] Tor.
[3] Tor. vinum mustum; List. v. mixtum.
X
SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, MULLET IN SARDA [1] CORDULA [2] MUGILE [3]
[419] STUFFED SARDINE SARDAM FARSILEM
PROPERLY, OUGHT TO BE TREATED IN THIS MANNER: THE SARDINE IS BONED AND FILLED WITH CRUSHED FLEA-BANE, SEVERAL GRAINS OF PEPPER, MINT, NUTS, DILUTED WITH HONEY, TIED OR SEWED, WRAPPED IN PARCHMENT AND PLACED IN A FLAT DISH ABOVE THE STEAM RISING FROM THE STOVE; SEASON WITH OIL, REDUCED MUST AND ORIGANY [4].
[1] The freshly caught sardine.
[2] Cordyla, cordilla, the young or the fry of tunny.
[3] Mugil, sea-mullet.
[4] Tor. origany; List. alece, with brine.
[420] ANOTHER PREPARATION OF SARDINES SARDA ITA FIT
COOK AND BONE THE SARDINES; FILL WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, RUE, MOISTENED WITH DATE WINE, HONEY; PLACE ON A DISH, GARNISH WITH CUT HARD EGGS. POUR OVER A LITTLE WINE, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST, AND VIRGIN OIL.
[421] SAUCE FOR SARDINES IUS IN SARDA
PEPPER, ORIGANY, MINT, ONIONS, A LITTLE VINEGAR, AND OIL.
Resembling our vinaigrette.
[422] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SARDINES [1] IUS ALIUD IN SARDA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT [2] COOKED, ONION [chopped], HONEY, VINEGAR, DILUTE WITH OIL, SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED HARD EGGS.
[1] Another Vinaigrette.
[2] Tac. and Tor. mentam aridam coctam, dry mint cooked, which is reasonable, to soften it. Hum., G.-V. dry mint, cooked onion; there is no necessity to cook the onion. As a matter of fact, it should be chopped raw in this dressing. The onion is wanting in Tac. and Tor.
[423] SAUCE FOR BROILED BABY TUNNY IUS IN CORDULA ASSA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, RUE, FIGDATE [or its wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE. ALSO SUITABLE FOR SARDINES.
[424] SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET IUS IN MUGILE SALSO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONION, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.
[1] Tor. calva; G.-V. calvam. Does not exist. Hum. calva legendum puto salvia.
[425] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET ALITER IUS IN MUGILE SALSO
PEPPER, ORIGANY, ROCKET, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, OIL, VINEGAR AND MUSTARD.
[1] Same as above.
XI [1]
[426] SAUCE FOR CATFISH, BABY TUNNY AND TUNNY IUS IN SILURO [2] IN PELAMYDE [3] ET IN THYNNO [4]
TO MAKE THEM MORE TASTY USE [5] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONIONS, MINT, RUE, SAGE [6] DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.
[1] The twelve chapters of Book IX, as shown in the beginning of the text are here increased to fourteen by G.-V., to wit, XII, IUS IN MULLO TARICHO and XIII, SALSUM SINE SALSO, but these are more properly included in the above chapter XI, as does Tor. All of the above fish were salt, and probably were important commercial articles. The silurus, for instance, is best in the river Danube in the Balkans, while the red mullet, as seen in ℞ No. 427 came from the sea of Galilee. Cf. ℞ Nos. 144, 149.
[2] Silurus, probably the sly silurus, or sheatfish, in the U. S. called horn-pout—a large catfish.
[3] Pelamis, a tunny before it is a year old.
[4] Tunny, Tunafish.
[5] Tor. wanting in the others.
[6] Cf. note 1 to ℞ No. 424.
XII
[427] SAUCE FOR SALT RED MULLET IUS IN MULLO [1] TARICHO [2]
IF IN NEED OF CONDIMENTS USE [3] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, DATES, GROUND MUSTARD; MIX ALL WITH [flaked meat of] SEA URCHINS, MOISTEN WITH OIL, AND POUR OVER THE FISH WHICH IS EITHER FRIED OR BROILED, OMITTING SALT [4].
[1] Tor. mulo, the red sur-mullet—a very esteemed fish.
[2] Tarichea, town of Galilee, on the sea of Galilee. Salt mullet as prepared at Tarichea was known as Tarichus. This became finally a generic name for all kinds of salt fish, whether coming from Tarichea or from elsewhere. We have an interesting analogy in “Finnan Haddie,” smoked Haddock from Findon, Scotland, corrupted into “Finnan,” and now used for any kind of smoked Haddock. Cf. ℞ Nos. 144, 149.
[3] Tor. Quite correctly, he questions the need of condiments for salt fish.
[4] List. uses this last sentence as the title for the next formula, implying that more salt be added to the salt fish; Tor. is explicit in saying that no salt be added which of course, is correct.
XIII
ANOTHER WAY, WITHOUT SALT [PORK?] ALITER, SINE SALSO [1]
[428] FISH LIVER PUDDING SALSUM, SINE SALSO [2]
COOK THE LIVER [of the mullet] CRUSH [3] AND ADD PEPPER, EITHER BROTH OR SALT [4] ADD OIL, LIVER OF HARE, OR OF LAMB [5] OR OF CHICKEN, AND, IF YOU LIKE, PRESS INTO A FISH MOULD [6] [unmould, after baking] SPRINKLE WITH VIRGIN OIL [7].
[1] Tor.
[2] G.-V. plainly, a contradiction. The possible meaning may be, “Salt Fish, without salt pork” as salt fish is frequently served with bacon.
[3] Dann. Crush the liver, which is probably correct. A paste or forcemeat of the livers and fish were made.
[4] The addition of salt would be superfluous if the liver of salt meat is used, excepting if the liver of hare, etc., predominated.
[5] G.-V. or liver of kid, wanting in Tor.
[6] Such fish-shape moulds existed, made of bronze, artistically finished, same as we possess them today; such moulds were made in various styles and shapes. Cf. ℞ No. 384.
[7] This is an attempt to make a “fish” of livers, not so much with the intention to deceive as to utilize the livers in an attractive way. A very nutritious dish and a most ingenious device, requiring much skill.
This is another good example of Roman cookery, far from being extravagant as it is reputed to be, it is economical and clever, and shows ingenuity in the utilization of good things which are often discarded as worthless.
[429] ANOTHER WAY, FOR A CHANGE! ALITER VICEM GERENS SALSI [1]
CUMIN, PEPPER, BROTH, WHICH CRUSH, ADDING A LITTLE RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED WINE, AND A QUANTITY OF CRUSHED NUTS. MIX EVERYTHING WELL, INCORPORATE WITH THE SALT [2] [fish]; MIX IN A LITTLE OIL AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. Alter vice salsi.
[2] Tor. & salibus imbue; List. & salsa redde. There is no sense to Lister’s version, nor can we accept G.-V. who have et salari defundes.
[430] ANOTHER WAY ALITER SALSUM IN [1] SALSO
TAKE AS MUCH CUMIN AS YOUR FIVE FINGERS WILL HOLD; CRUSH HALF OF THAT QUANTITY OF PEPPER AND ONE PIECE OF PEELED GARLIC, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND MIX IN A LITTLE OIL. THIS WILL CORRECT AND BENEFIT A SOUR STOMACH AND PROMOTE DIGESTION [2].
[1] Tor., G.-V. sine.
[2] The title has reference to salt fish or salt pork; but the formula obviously is of a medicinal character and has no place here.
XII [XIV]
[431] BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW EMBRACTUM [1] BAIANUM [2]
MINCED [poached] OYSTERS, MUSSELS [3] [or scallops] AND SEA NETTLES PUT IN A SAUCE PAN WITH TOASTED NUTS, RUE, CELERY, PEPPER, CORIANDER, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND OIL.
[1] List. emphractum—a caudle, a stew. Seafood stews of this sort are very popular in the South of Europe, the most famous among them being the Bouillabaisse of Marseilles.
[2] Baiæ, a very popular seaside resort of the ancients located in the bay of Naples. The stew was named after the place. Horace liked the place but Seneca warned against it.
[3] Tor. spondylos; List. sphondylos—scallops. Both terms, if used in connection with the shellfish are correct. Lister in several places confuses this term with spongiolus—mushroom. This instance is the final vindication of Torinus, whose correctness was maintained in ℞ Nos. 41, 47, 115, seq.; 120, 121, 183, 309, seq.
END OF BOOK IX [1]
EXPLICIT APICII THALASSA LIBER NONUS [2]
[1] It appears to us that Book IX and the following, Book X, judging from its recipes, phraseology and from other appearances is by a different author than the preceding books. (Long after having made this observation, we learn from Vollmer, Studien, that Books IX and X were missing in the Archetypus Fuldensis.)
[2]. Tac.
ROAST PLATTER
The indenture is corrugated to receive the juices of the roast. Hildesheim Treas.
TITLE PAGE, TORINUS EDITION, BASEL, 1541
Inscribed with comments by Lappius, contemporary scholar. The fly-leaf bears the autograph of M. Tydeman, 1806, and references to the above Lappius. There are further inscriptions by ancient hands in Latin and French, referring to the Barnhold [sic] Apicius, to The Diaitetike, to Aulus Cornelius, Celsus, Hippocrates and Galen. Also complaints about the difficulties to decipher the Apician text.
APICIUS
Book X
SHALLOW SAUCE PAN
The plain bowl is molded, the fluted handle ends in a head of the young Hercules in a lion’s skin, with the paws tied under the neck. This corresponds somewhat to our modern chafing dish pan both in size and in utility. This pan was used in connection with the plain thermospodium for the service of hot foods in the dining room. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 73438; Field M., 24032.
CACCABUS
Stewpot, kettle, marmite. The cover fits over the mouth. The rings in which the bail plays are attached by rivets to a sort of collar encircling the neck of the pot. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74775; Field M., 24173.
BOOK X. THE FISHERMAN [1]
Lib. X. Halieus
| CHAP. | I. | DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH. |
| CHAP. | II. | MURENAS. |
| CHAP. | III. | EEL. |
The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts.
I
[432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH IUS DIABOTANON [2] PRO [3] PISCE FRIXO
USE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] SALT [4] AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, AND RUE, ALL CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN SIMMERING POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] This chapter principally deals with fish sauces. Apparently it is by a different author than Books I-VIII, which have many formulæ for fish. While we have no direct proof, we are inclined to believe that Book X is a Roman version of a Greek treatise on fish sauces, a monograph, of which there existed many, according to Athenæus, which specialized on the various departments of cookery.
[2] Tor. Diabotom (in Greek characters); Greek, relating to herbs.
[3] Tor. G.-V. in.
[4] G.-V. salsas.
[433] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH IUS IN PISCE ELIXO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SMALL ONIONS, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT THIS SAUCE, AND IF YOU WISH [it to be richer, add] RAISINS.
[434] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH ALITER IN PISCE ELIXO [1]
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION, [hard] BOILED YOLKS, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, OIL AND BROTH.
[1] Tor. frixo—fried fish, although his heading reads elixo.
[435] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO
PREPARE THE FISH CAREFULLY; IN THE MORTAR PUT SALT, CORIANDER SEED, CRUSH AND MIX WELL; TURN THE FISH THEREIN, PUT IT IN A PAN, COVER IT AND SEAL IT WITH PLASTER [1] COOK IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE RETIRE [the fish from the pan] SPRINKLE WITH STRONG VINEGAR AND SERVE.
[1] Remarkable culinary ingenuity, resembling in principle the North American Indian method of cooking whitefish wrapped in clay. Today we use flour and water made into a stiff paste to seal a pan hermetically if no “pressure cooker” is available.
This formula cannot be classified under “Sauce for Boiled Fish.”
[436] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO
WHEN THE FISH IS PREPARED, PUT THE SAME IN A FLAT PAN WITH CORIANDER SEED, WATER AND GREEN DILL; WHEN COOKED SPRINKLE WITH VINEGAR AND SERVE [1].
[1] Another fair example of the incompleteness, on the one hand, of the directions, and of the superfluity, on the other hand, of words such as the initial and the closing words, which characterizes so many of the formulæ. This is characteristic of ever so many culinary authors of all ages, who, lacking literary training, assume that the reader is thoroughly versed with the methods indicated. A versatile modern author would have said: “Poach the filleted fish in small water seasoned with coriander seed and green dill; sprinkle with vinegar before serving.” He mentioned neither the salt nor the oil which he undoubtedly used.
[437] ALEXANDRINE [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO
PEPPER, DRY ONIONS [shallots] LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES [pounded in the mortar] FILLED UP [2] WITH VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND OIL, AND COOK IT.
[1] Alexandria, Egyptian city, at the mouth of the river Nile, third of the three great cities of antiquity excepting Carthage during Apicius’ time a rival of Rome and Athens in splendor and commerce. Most important as a Mediterranean port, where fishing and fish eating was (and still is) good.
[2] G.-V. mulsum, mead.
[438] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL, COOKED TOGETHER.
[439] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL AND VINEGAR, AND COOK.
[440] SAUCE FOR BROILED CONGER IUS IN CONGRO ASSO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD YOLKS, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND COOK.
G.-V. Gongo.
[441] SAUCE FOR HORNED FISH [1] IUS IN CORNUTAM [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; AND COOK IT [2]
[1] Cornuta, cornutus—“horned,” “having horns”—an unidentified sea fish.
[2] Goll. collects all succeeding formulæ for sauces into one.
[442] SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS
PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, HONEY, NUTS, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND POUR OVER [1].
[1] List. is of the opinion that this is fresh mullet, while salt mullet was treated in the preceding formulæ.
[443] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET ALITER IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS
RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL,—ALL OF THEM GREEN—PEPPER, LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL.
[444] SEASONING FOR BABY TUNNY IUS IN PELAMYDE ASSA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, ONION, SEEDLESS RAISINS [1], RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL, AND COOK.
[1] Wanting in Tor.
THIS SAUCE IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR BOILED [tunny]; IF DESIRED ADD HONEY.
[446] SAUCE FOR PERCH IUS IN PERCAM [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST; COOK IT.
[1] Perca, perch—sea perch or sea bass.
[447] SEASONING FOR REDSNAPPER CONDIMENTUM IN RUBELLIONEM [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, WILD THYME, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] Rubellio—a “reddish” fish; perhaps a species of the red-mullet or red-snapper. Hum. says the Latins called the fish rubelliones, rubellos and rubros; the Greeks erythrinos or erythricos, because of their reddish color. A fish, according to Athenæus similar to the pager or pagrus, phager or phagrus, also called pagur, which is not quite identified.
II
[448] SAUCE FOR [BROILED] MURENA IUS IN MURENA [ASSA] [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, SAFFRON [2], ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND OIL; COOK IT [3].
[1] V. doubting that this is broiled.
[2] Tor. Crocomagma; List. crocum magnum, still used today in some fish preparations, particularly in the Bouillabaisse.
[3] The laconic style in which all these fish preparations are given, is very confusing to the uninitiated. We assume that most of these ingredients were used to season the water in which to boil fish; or, to make a court-bouillon, a fish-essence of the bones and the trimmings of the fish, in which to poach the sliced fish. The liquor thus gained was reduced and in the moment of serving was bound with roux or with yolks, and the fish was masked with this sauce. The exceptions from this rule are, of course, in cases where the fish was broiled or fried.
[449] SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA IUS IN MURENA ASSA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, [stoned] DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL; COOK IT.
[450] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA ALITER IUS IN MURENA ASSA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CATMINT [1] CORIANDER SEED, ONIONS, PINE NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.
[1] Nepeta montana—nep.
[451] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA [1] ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, PINE NUTS, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V.
[2] Tac.; wanting in Tor.
[452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED WINE.
[1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor. rhus Syriacum—Syrian Sumach.
The originals are considerably confused on the above and the following formulæ.
[453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH [1] FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2].
[1] See note to ℞ No. 452.
[2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction of ℞ No. 452, as this is wanting in the other editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula.
In Tac. the above formula follows the next.
[454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH IUS IN PISCE ELIXO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL SAUCE BOAT [1].
[1] in lance; lanx may also mean a large oblong platter on which fish would be served. Cf. illustration Oval Dish with Handles.
Horace II Sat. 8—in patina porrecta—a special dish to hold the cooked murena and to display it to advantage.
Such special dishes are found in any good table service, to serve special purposes. Not so long ago special forks and knives were used for fish service which have been gradually discarded.
[455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH ROUX [2].
[1] Lacertus, an unidentified sea fish.
[2] Cf. note 3 to ℞ No. 448.
In G.-V. this formula precedes the above.
[456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH IUS IN PISCE ASSO
A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT AND STIR WELL WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Tor. wanting in others.
[457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY IUS IN THYNNO
TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: [1] PEPPER, CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND OIL; HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2].
[1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting in others.
[458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, FIG DATES [or fig wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD AND TIE [2].
[1] Condimenta mortaria—herbs crushed in the “mortar”; also pulverized spices.
[2] “and tie” wanting in List. Leave it out, and you have an acceptable vinaigrette—a cold sauce for cold fish.
[459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH IUS IN DENTICE ASSO [1]
SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Dentex; Hum. dentex forma auratæ similis, verum major—the tooth-fish is similar to the dory in shape, though larger.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Malum Cydonicum.
[460] BOILED TOOTHFISH IN DENTICE ELIXO [1]
PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor.
[461] SAUCE FOR DORY IUS IN PISCE AURATA [1]
A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO.
[1] Aurata—the “golden” dory. Very esteemed fish. Martial, III, Ep. 90: